Yeah,it’s called a chop saw chris

However if you don’t want to spend any money just knock up a wooden angle block with a slot cut for the saw, and either a pencil mark or a stop for the length…..Simples

Total overkill for this but for woodwork the most general purpose saw is the radial arm type. They can rip, cross cut and even used as a panel saw after a fashion – straight edge clamped to the work run along the front of the table.

Add a router attachment and overhead routing is possible as well.

Length stops are easy to add and many don't fetch high used prices. New tends to be a bit different,

John

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Get one of the little mitre boxes that they make for the razor saws, clamp a block of wood on it to act as a stop. Butt one end of wood against that and saw through, repeat as needed.

If you want to get sofisticated make an adjustable stop with a thread of known pitch so you can fine tune lengths.

Small parts that are being cut wioth a razor saw as the OP has suggested will just disapear if you put them near a chop saw or radial arm

Jason has the simple practical answer. If really needing to churn out large numbers of these cut-offs then back in the day minicraft made a tiny circular saw table with fine toothed blade… good for a few mm thickness of timber. I see that the nearest nowadays is a proxxon table saw but also noted a suggestion that a cheap tile saw – something like this one **LINK**

with the disc cutter swapped out for a saw blade would be ideal. However that depends on being lucky with finding such saw blades that'll fit etc. Hard to tell unless you have acress to the tile cutter first but there may well be a slitting saw to fit.

There is a sort of chop saw available that is supposed to work on small stuff particularly balsa but I don't think it's available in the uk.

I mentioned radial arm due to the mention of sanding to length. Gave me the impression that we were not talking match sticks. All of the Freud fine kerf blades I have used on mine leave an excellent finish. There is no splintering of ends because there should be a groove in the table that was cut by the blade that is fitted. The slot in the fence is cut the same way too.

It might be possible to adapt a proxxon or other make table saw intended for light use. It might split ends though if the fence used isn't backed up with timber. No idea of the finish they achieve but the Amazon reviews will give some idea of what they are used for. The Freud blades should improve table saws – providing the spindle has no end float and runs true.

Maybe some one makes a mitre block for a balsa saw. These will and are used for cutting hardwood.

Split ends can be a bad point with pull saws in mitre blocks etc.

John

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I bought a cheapo screwfix tile saw that happily worked through the cuts for some 40 sq yds of large heavy duty floor tile in a herringbone pattern and a 'brick style' pattern of wall tiles over a lot of wall corners and edges before it died… more than paid for itself in time and tiles compared to score and snap or whittling away with pliers. I believe Jason does this sort of stuff professionally but considering the abuse i hurled at the thing compared to mere timber I thought it did well.

I once saw a definition of an engineer as 'a man who can make for a penny what any fool can make for a pound'.

I have to say it but some of the posters on this thread seem to have turned this principle on its head and come up with the most complicated and expensive solutions possible. I'm sure we are all guilty of it some times .

Surely what the bloke needs can be provided , as Martin and Jason above suggest, some sort of depth stop done with a block of wood a g clamp and maybe a mitre box. .

Agreed, we get a question how to chop small pieces of dowel and we get 200 different solutions, but that's forums I guess.

I think yours/martins/jasons solutions are probably going to be the no nonsense get the job done territory, but in the spirit of spending yet more money..has he not checked out some of the hobby woodworking machines, I thought there was one in particular that could cut wood into very narrow strips?..Thicknesser?

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 29/12/2016 15:59:21

Hi Chris.

It would be interesting to see what sort of tool you make to do the job, perhaps you might put some photos up at a later date?

Thanks. V8.

Edited For spelling.

Edited By V8Eng on 29/12/2016 22:33:07

That looks a good solution, Chris

When you get some machinery you can agonise over the detailing of an over-complicated Mk. 2

… Meanwhile, put what you've made to good use.

MichaelG.

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P.S. … Just out of curiousity: How did you manage to post two photos [neither of which is the one in your Album] without disclosing their location ?

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Thanks for that, Chris … I learn something new every day

Most images posted will disclose the URL … but tinypic appears to keep itself hidden [to the iPad at least]

MichaelG.