.

Methinks the clue was in the subtitle.

[or has that been added later ?]

MichaelG.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 16/08/2016 13:28:12

Hi Michael;

I'm into 3-1/2" gauge, but should be the same. Yes, bolt the frames together, to angles on buffers, and directly into tapped holes in frame stretchers. One can braze/weld the frames together, but you need to be sure of your bracing when welding, and I don't think it saves much time, if any.

On my latest 2 builds, I use metric cap screws onto the buffer "angles" rather than modellers bolts, as I think one can tighten them up more, and less likely to break. After painting, and tucked underneath running boards, behind steps etc, they are hard to see.

If you don't like tapping into blind holes for the stretchers, one can drill holes (say, 6mm) across the plate, then drill in to the sides meeting these holes. That way, you can tap easily, and can see the tap coming through the drilled hole. I've not bothered, but the DB23 (3-1/2" gauge 2-6-2) plans from the Netherlands show this.

Guilty as charged, but there is no way to leave any evidence

Thanks, Jason

Neil's reputation is safe now

MichaelG.

Hi Michael,

You really need to get the full set of drawings and the construction series which was in in ME 1969-1970. I have the full set of MEs for this period if you have any queries.

It is pretty obvious from the drawings how the frames are assembled to everything else, and the frames are NOT rivetted to the buffer beam angle or the drag box.

Cheers,

Julian

I have a full set of drawings and the construction series, the drawings are not that clear as to how the beams or stretchers are connected but the notes do mention the fixings for the beams.

Edited By Bob Brown 1 on 17/08/2016 10:58:04