As Younger Model engineer at 23, sorry gentlemen……..
I can see how Imperial would be a shock, as most school’s teach metric now as a matter of course. Plus the wider world is using said materials and machines.
Althought here are a few points……….
Model engineer magazines before my time and with original LBSC’s designs are all Imperial, going back well beyond 1930.
Unless you want to scratch build or chew parts
out of solid for a Model, you will have to buy castings. Which will
mostly be cast off original wooden patterns scaled to Imperial plans.
All
the current designs for locomotives either 3 1/2 or 5 inch gauge run on
imperial track gauge. It is unlikely that clubs are going to relay track
or that plans for locomotives are going to be revised into Imperial,
due to cost and manpower.
by any rate alot of Imperial plans have never been revised and still have errors on them. Popular
designs as well, but this would mean owning up to errors and probably
legal? The majority of people in clubs will know something about one or
two designs. This is where it is invaualable to talk to somebody about
the model you are planning.
How I get round Imperial
I work on a Imperial myford, and I am completly metric, so work with what you have.
I tried to make the transition easier by these few methods and it does not cost the earth.
If all else buy a Digital vernier caliper ( machine dro-co.uk) and a copy of Zeus tables.
I
find that breaking Imperial down into a decimal much easier to
understand than the fraction eg 1/2 = 0.500 or 1/8 = 0.125 althought
the read out will give you a fourth digit after the point, i dont tend
to work down to that tolerance. Some drawing you may find are written
in Imperial decimal, so dont get caught out thinking it is metric. 1/8
can also be written in this case as .125 (point only in front ) Zeus
will give you decimal breakdown of the sizes in a table, but for quick
refernce if you use a caculater dived the top number of the fraction
into the bottom. ie 3/16 would be 3 divided by 16= 0.1875 The talbes are extremely useful for reference including letter and number drills which are also gauged in standard metric sizes, good for working out to drill undersize for reaming Imperial.
( I have no machine fitted with Dro, and i still
prefer to work with an eyeglass when marking out with a manaul read off
vernier height gauge. Althought i did invest in a digital micrometer
recently, but i find it is not as accurate as normal thimble type moore
and wright types.)
With my Zeus tables, I photocopied it and made
it larger to A4 and have two polly pockets one for each page, so i can
refer to it easily. I dont go anywhere in the garage without these. On the reverse of each page I also have a print out of information.
One consists of BA (British Association)sizes for tapping and threading
and the other is for ME(Model engineer standard and special fine
thread) sizes. This information is available in many places ie the back of the blackgates catalogue for free or on the net.
Apart from these pages i work on little else to
complete my work. They are my bible, even with constant referal i still
probably couldnt tell you all the decimal breakdowns off all the
Imperial sizes, Its like a second langauge still. My maths is prity
shocking so if i can work in Imperial, im of the opinion that with practice and a little patience it can be done.
I hope my waffle is a little insightful to the complete begineer and i apolgise to the more learned than I. (ie teaching granny)
Edited By Kieran Sparks on 17/08/2009 09:46:38
Edited By Kieran Sparks on 17/08/2009 09:48:15
Edited By Kieran Sparks on 17/08/2009 09:49:19