Put a clamp on the hose or fit a valve in the hose.

Andrew

Edited By Andrew Johnston on 29/08/2021 08:36:38

Just to add to the good advice above, the pump will be a centrifugal one, so restricting or totally shutting off its flow will not damage it in any way. Just make sure any joins in the pipework are adequately clamped.

As DC 31k says, you wont be harming the pump restricting the output, but do ensure all connections are sound. Your heating system pump/circulator works just the same. Can you fix a bi-pass arrangement which puts less pressure on your connections. John

I have a commercial coolant pump but use use one of these to control the coolant flow. Cheap on ebay and does the job. Also available with metal valves.

The tank has 2 compartments where the return coolant is drained to the 1st tank and has to flow over a wall to the 2nd where the pump is. Metal is trapped at the bottom of the 1st tank and only clean coolant flows into the second. There is also a magnet at the bottom of the 1st tank.

Paul

I have several short pieces of BLUE hose as shown in Paul Lousick comments above. Can any one tell me how to join them up, I have tried hot water and hot air gun. Not there yet but keep on trying. John

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Edited By Paul Lousick on 29/08/2021 11:01:50

+1 For bypass back to tank. this will save energy, wear on pump and motor and noise.

Interesting; most of my coolant pumps, 3-phase industrial and single phase home brew, simply have a tap on the output to regulate flow. Ironically the only pump that failed (motor winding short) was the 3-phase OEM pump on the Bridgeport, which didn't have an output tap.

Andrew

You won't go wrong with a coolant pump IMO. Any finish or parting-off problems will be reduced at a stroke. The only issue is that sometimes things can get a bit messy, especially when working near the chuck and the flow of coolant hits the jaws but the other advantages of a continuous flow more than compensate for this, again IMO. I use the cheapest soluble oil from the local oil merchant diluted 20:1 and mix the water with the oil rather than the oil with water. I also put in a good squirt of the Rocol anti-bacterial potion when I replenish the reservoirs as I had issues with black gunge when the machines had not been used for a while. It appears also that the Rocol lessens the tendency for the water and oil to de-emulsify over time, although that might just be my perception.

I accept that some people are very wary of having anything containing water anywhere near their cherished machines but I have always used copious amounts of water soluble coolant since I was an apprentice and we were always instructed to swill down the machines with coolant after use. You will find that a film of the oil will reside on the exposed metal surfaces and will guard against rust but you may experience some staining between mating surfaces over time, such as under tool-posts etc.