My machine allowed me to cut and paste it ok. I had a look and downloaded an image – I might try to draw one in CAD to 3D print. Here a picture of one:

Many thanks Henry, that looks very useful. If they are cheap enough I may buy one; otherwise it'll be a nice little workshop project.

Brian

Posted by IanT on 06/01/2021 12:50:21:

Posted by Henry Brown on 06/01/2021 12:13:22:

I might try to draw one in CAD to 3D print.

And if you did Henry – I might try to print one!

Regards,

IanT

LOL, my 3D CAD skills are very limited as are my 3D printing skills Ian, don't hold your breath! I did manage to draw up a small box for my tool tips (to go with the Multifix holders I downloaded from Thingiverse) to print yesterday…

I made a clamp to mount onto the bed of my BL12-24, so that a Micrometer barrel could be mounted. It is used, when nrequired as a Saddle stop.

The mic is extended by the required travel and the stop clamped to the bed wsith bthe micrometer spindle against the Saddle. The Mic is then nretracted to the Zero position. AS the Saddle mapproaches the stop, power feed is disconnected, and the Saddle brought to the stop by hand feed.

In this way no mdamage is done, and the stop is not moved from it's position.

For a lathe with a dovetail bed, (Myford ML1,2, 3 ,4 , Clarke CL430 or CL500M ) a different form of mounting arrangement is required..

I'll try to put a picture into an album.

Howard

The longest plunger clocks that Arc Euro do in Metric is 0.01 mm x 30 mm travel. Otherwise, they have a 0.001" 2" travel imperial.one.

Range is important if using as a measuring instrument, rather than bringing a workpiece back to a Zero deflection condition.

For this, you are unlikely to need a long travel, and possibly the units don't really matter, since you are looking for Zero, or absolutely minimal divergence.

To measure long distances, you could use gauge blocks and a short travel clock, since you are only interested in stopping once the distance has been traveled, accurately.

(This is how distances are measured on Jig Borers!, or with Height Gauges and Height Micrometers. )

Howard

Thanks guys

I am just drawing now for Clarke bed. Im also in touch with the ebay manufacturer to have one made thereafter.

DC31K – Its not a bad idea as that would get me up and running without further expense (if I can find a spacer thingymabob), but Id still be limited to just that 1" or what ever (Im sure mine are not even that).

I have seen metric 50mm on ebay somewhere. I think its from Italy. Best part of £100 I think.

Nigel, Agreed clocks are delicate things so will need to be careful. Maybe I have found a use for my Lockdown condom stash. Obviously, dont try this guys if the mrs is partial to a nosey. I didnt know what a mic stop was until I googled. Looks like a plan also, BUT I still need the clamp.

Howard, Thanks again. Ive just seen the clamp pic. So thats a Mic stop – looks a belter. What Mic is required (special or internal)?

So I need to make sure mine is diverse enough to hold both.

Thats enough optioneering from me for one day. I think we've all deserved a glass of red.

cheers

DC31k – It's a good idea. But I'm sure sure of the type of fixing you mean (slot and clamping screw)? Can you please clarify (what and where it would fit) on below.

BTW there is a 2" on eBay now, by Chronos for £39.99 and a USED for £34; but I want 50mm.

If anyone has a used FOR SALE?

Cheers

Have just posted a photo of the Micrometer saddle Stop that I made for my BL12-24 (Will fit a Taiwanese lathe such as the Warco BH600, 900 or Chester Craftsman ) into an Album, if anyone is interested.

There is also another Album showing a Saddle Stop made for a Myford ML4, but suitably upscaled can be used on any lathe with a dovetail bed. Adding a Micrometer barrel, or DTI should not be too difficult a modification to make.

Howard

Hi guys

I thought I would update on this, and hopefully save you some drinking time.

So, the clamp thing (in my opinion) waste of time. The Plastic printing guy (eBay – great guy and knows his stuff) doesn't think it will work but did provide an option with magnets BUT with his clock embedded.

Im not keen on a 30mm clock or buying another when I have a few old ones around.

Got me thinking about using a >100mm digital vernier instead of 50mm clock at silly money.

If I have to use magnets, then I can prob make myself easy – right?

Turns out YES. There's a YouTube clip somewhere of a US guy making one with iGaging depth gauge. Can buy in UK for >£50 but Amazon £40 imported from US.

So for magnets.

I did loads of research using couple of magnet sites. Nothing perfect.

Then, I went back on Amazon and found these (below) because they have a hole which I can attached to Saddle (Oil Guard thingymabob) and I hoped the vernier marking wheel would be sufficient for pulling the gauge. It does perfect.

Magnetpro 8 Pieces Strong Neodymium Rectangular Magnets 20 KG Force 40 x 13.5 x 5 mm with Countersunk Hole and Capsule, Household and Industrial Rare Earth Magnet with Mounting Screws

Also, I thought the 5mm height and 40mm length would be OK for under a base-plate: which is a 70mm piece of 40mm angle iron (maybe with some 5mm packing also to avoid any snatching when installing). Note that I'm using 5mm drills in pic for testing the height.

Sorry I haven't fitted these yet so cant show a finished pic.

Turns out I didnt need these specific (8 pack) magnets, but thought I would share that they are very good, so I'm sure I'll find a use for them – one day! I could have bought just 1 of something similar for under the base-plate. With hindsight I would get 1 magnet of similar quality and 5mm height, which is good height for hitting metal on the Saddle oil-guard.

Anyway,

I also found this magnet: Magnetpro 8 Pieces Strong Neodymium Rectangular Magnets 20 KG Force 40 x 13.5 x 5 mm with Countersunk Hole and Capsule, Household and Industrial Rare Earth Magnet with Mounting Screws

Turns out this has an M3 screw. But would this small thing really be strong enough?

Yep. Ive just tried it with steel ruler on my desk and it sticks like shit to a shovel. So, turns out adding an iGaging vernier is a piece of cake.

BUT as with all things with this Clarke lathe, its not all good news as it's going to be in the way of the Tailstock.

cheers all

Coming soon – How to make a Gin Still out of a Clarke CL500M

Hi Howard

I guess your talking about your Tailstock stop type thing (below)?

Could do, Yes.

I just feel its a bit over-engineered/extreme and would be a pain to remove.

BTW for a Tailstock stop I would drill/tap into lathe bed and use a Bolt or make a Threaded pin.

I guess time, materials and machines/Tools to hand will influence how we design things.

I will probably use Plastic Angle section instead of steel.

cheers