CB, there are two ways of doing this, both of which require a boring bar to pass through the entire mandrel. Both of the methods use a fixed boring bar position, hence cuts are not put on using the cross slide but by moving the cutting tool. In this respect I have a sliding gauge bored to the correct size (1.510 inch) There are offset micrometers available but I find this method of setting the tool accurate enough.
1) this method involves using a conventional boring bar but with a collar that can be clamped to the boring bar behind the cutting tool. The OD of the collar is sized to the diameter you are boring to, hence more than one collar may be needed depending on how much your mandrel needs to be border by.
Measure your mandrel ID to see how much you need to take off. Set up you boring bar to ensure it will clear the mandrel at the back. Set the collar behind the cutting tool, & set the cutting tool to the diameter you are cutting. There are micrometers for doing this, but a sliding collar that fits over the boring bar with the OD to your final diameter will suffice. For smaller cuts just use feeler gauges behind your tool to set to size. Then bore out the mandrel, using lots of oil & clear the swarf as you go. Continue in this maner until you get the diameter you need. Essentially this is the way large gun barrels are machined out, with the collar behind the cutting tool acting as a travelling support.
2) The second method is a more engineered method that will give better results. Two pilot bushings are required, one a number 5 morse taper one to fit the taper in your mandrel & the second a threaded one to fit onto the thread at the back end of your lathe mandrel. These bushings need to be bored at 1.00 inch. A boring bar needs to be made that will fit into your tool holder & must be sufficiently long enough to be supported by the rear bush at the start of your cut & to allow sufficient travel to complete the cut.
Set up as follows. Remove your guard at the rear end of the mandrel & screw onto the mandrel threading the rear pilot bushing. Remove your chuck & measure your lathe mandrel to see how much you need to bore out. Slide your number 5 morse taper bushing over the boring bar. Sharpen & hone your cutting tool. Install the tool in the bar & set to the first cut size with your gauging busing & feeler gauges. Slide the boring bat into your lathe mandrel, fitting it into the rear pilot bushing. Tap in you number 5 pilot busing into the front of the lathe mandrel. Remember that you will be boring blind with this method, hence ensure you have spaced out correctly so you know when your cut is completed.
Continue in this fashion until you have achieved the bore you require.
For both methods I use a very slow speed & lots of oil…I mean there's no hurry here is there?
As I am a Profesional Engineer trying to keep the wolf from the door, for option two I can rent you all of the tooling required for this option, with you picking up courier costing both ways. This would still work out cheaper than you manufacturing the tooling required. Depending on your address I may be able to drop off & collect, let me have your post code.
It may seem a lot of hassle to do this, but it takes about an hour including set up, & once done it well you have full bore through the lathe mandrel for life.
Regards R
CEng. MSc. MEI.