Square end on round stock – Milling?

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

Bazyle –

Using two horizontal milling-cutter is not implausible because the smaller diameter ones can be mounted on a vertical-mill arbor.

The method also has the advantage of neutral torque whereas using a single cutter can risk rotating the work-piece.

That risk is greater if the work is held vertically via a threaded (e.g. Myford) chuck on a rotary-table. (As I once found when trying to mill a polygonal end using the jig-borer.)

 

Julie –

Rarity of arbor-spaces: a very good point but they are not too difficult to make to sufficient accuracy for all but the most exacting work.

Apart from conventional turning from stock, an alternative approach is to use gauge-plate or similar. For some applications they could be rotary-sawn from stock mild-steel plate or sheet, then tidied on the lathe. The bore and o.d. are not too critical. Another possibility is a scrap machine-part, e.g. a bearing-race or turned collar, of the right size – I use such parts in work-holding on the mill.

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

My only gripe with collet blocks the dont span the jaws of most (4 inch) mill vices so the horizontal/base of the block is only settled on one fairly narrow vice slide. I have made er16 and er11 versions that are longer for my Shoreline with small vice and they seem to sit on the vice base a bit more positively. Perhaps its only me but I find them a bit stingy on the material.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Possibly kept short for when they are being used vertically on the smaller hobby lathes or in lathe chucks?

If I do use blocks then I’m more likely to use the 5C blocks which as well as being longer don’t have a nut sticking out so you can loosen the vice and slide them out and away from the cutter quickly and easily. Th esmaller end of the block also lets you get in closer without hitting a large closing nut.

[Nigel Graham 2]

On Nigel Graham 2 Said:

Julie –

Rarity of arbor-spaces: a very good point but they are not too difficult to make to sufficient accuracy for all but the most exacting work.

Apart from conventional turning from stock, an alternative approach is to use gauge-plate or similar. For some applications they could be rotary-sawn from stock mild-steel plate or sheet, then tidied on the lathe. The bore and o.d. are not too critical.

The advantage, and point, of a set is that one can accurately set any distance, at least to a few tenths, but choosing appropriate spacers. The sizes of the spacers are similar to gauge blocks, allowing one to build up any length needed in small increments, half a thou for my set, I think. Side milling horizontal cutters are not perfectly ground, so being able to adjust the distance in small increments allows one to adjust for cutters where the cutting teeth are not perfectly aligned with the centre boss.

The reality is that in decades of machining I’ve never needed to gang mill on the horizontal. But I like owning quality tooling, I am learning a lot about the set and their use, and if you haven’t got a particular tool you cannot plan to use it.

Julie

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

If the work is short, just mount in vertically in the vice, preferably near to centre of the jaws.

A Vee block will help endure that it is vertical; of impossible use a square.

Set the depth / length of flat that you require.

Mill one side of the work to produce a flat ( Calculate how much material needs to be removed to produce  the desired flat on one side of the workpiece. Set the table stop

Move to the other side of the workpiece and do the same again.

You should now have two flats, with the required A/F dimension.

Now move to the front of the workpiece and mill away the same amount of material. Note the dial reading, not forgetting to take out any backlash.

Move to the rear of the work piece, and repeat.

You should now have a square of the required A/F and length dimensions on the end of the round workpiece.

Howard

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