How not to repair an X1 Milling Machine

[Matt InkelParticipant @mattinkel67388]

The bearings Im going to use are a low profile flange style
Type: MF106ZZ

6mm ID
10mm OD
3mm high

I expect the flange will add another 3mm to tge overall OD.

they may require minor case modification but they look like a good bet

The gear changer is now fixed!

After putting in the cloned Brass gear fork I was some what horrified buy the amount of swing that was involved with this system…on closer inspection I believe this to be a major player in why my gears stripped.

Instead of wanting to raise and lower the fork tries to pivot round the layshaft…so I added two brass guide pillars to stop it swinging and now the gear change is far more positive …so very happy about that. I Also got in some Ali blocks to make bearing ends for the X and Y axis …lets face it they are pretty horrid on the stock machine!

Oh and for ref my X1 is an Axminster White series.

glad I found this thread ,I think they can be cracking little machines if you just mod the heck out of them!

Matt

If its okay with you Gray 'I shall post some shots of the gearbox fix here ..or I can open a new thread if you prefer

 

Edited By Matt Inkel on 12/04/2014 11:42:40

[Matt InkelParticipant @mattinkel67388]

[Matt InkelParticipant @mattinkel67388]

Thanks Gray, Okay the photos loaded in the reverse order was hoping for but you get the idea!,

Top photo shows the guide posts holding the gear change fork

second photo shows the position of these posts minus the fork/gear cluster

Third photo is the gear fork clone, there is a notch in the original that seems to serve no purpose on this machine so I left it off.. you can see the granular texture to the original broken fork.

other X1 users may be interested in this link , It has many wonderful mods for our little mills

**LINK**

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

A little OT, but relevant, The other year we got two 5.5hp motors (not working)one a genuine Honda, and the other a Honda clone(outwardly identical, both made in China), got the clone working, but the governor didn't work, opened up and the gears had disintegrated, opened up the Honda, the gears were made of a completely different type of plastic, and were in perfect condition, is this sort of thing the reason for gear failure in these mills and lathes.

Ian S C

[Matt InkelParticipant @mattinkel67388]

Hi All! Spent yesterday making ballraced bearing blocks for the X and Y axis, worked out really nicely , Id highly recommend this Mod for anyone who hasn't already attempted it

Mine were made from 6082 T6 Ali and bored out to take 22mm skate bearings.

[Matt InkelParticipant @mattinkel67388]

I should point out these are based on the info found in the Mikes workshop link I posted earlier,

I also have drawings if they would be any use to anyone.

Machined up a Quill lock T-bar today as well.

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

First thing I did with my CMD10 was fit 16x8x5 ballraces and like Gray I used the original blocks which I bored from each end (snug fit on a mandrel). I still used a tubular spacer but on the shaft between the races, I fine tuned the spacer length to get the right preload on the bearings.

Another big improvement I made was to relocate the Z axis feedscrew close to the RH front corner of the column because the standard 'L' shaped cast nut is an abomination! A pair of ballraces in a small housing sit on a small plate fixed to the top of the column. Z travel is now much more controllable.

Ian P

[Matt InkelParticipant @mattinkel67388]

Ever get the feeling all these mods should be combined to create the

ME X1 deluxe

The mill it always should have been

[Matt InkelParticipant @mattinkel67388]

Incidently are these Acme form leadscrewThreads? They look quite square to me

[Matt InkelParticipant @mattinkel67388]

I imagine I shall get some ballscrews from ebay and upgrade at somepoint anyway

thanks for you view though Gray ,you know far more than I about these things!

Matt

[Matt InkelParticipant @mattinkel67388]

Gray,

Can I ask what size milling collet chuck you use ? Ive been eyeing up an ER25 ..but Im not sure if that's pushing the capabilities…

Matt

[Matt InkelParticipant @mattinkel67388]

Thanks Gray,

I thought an ER25 only went up to 16mm on a collet or is there some cunning way of holding a 20mm?

that fly cutter is beautiful ..I have a little emco flycutter from chronos and since I learned to sharpen my own lathe tools its been an excellent little thing..Im keen to get a 40mm face cutter too.

[Russ BParticipant @russb]

Posted by Matt Inkel on 14/04/2014 19:26:21:

Gray,

Can I ask what size milling collet chuck you use ? Ive been eyeing up an ER25 ..but Im not sure if that's pushing the capabilities…

Matt

Matt, (Check your private messages)

I'm using ER25 too, nice balance of cost/quality and size. The seller I bought the arbor from also sold the safety spanners and they were happy to swap out the C spanner free of charge (I bought them from YS TOOL, aka onlineseller68 on ebay)

[Matt InkelParticipant @mattinkel67388]

Thanks for the info chaps!

Russ PM returned

[Matt InkelParticipant @mattinkel67388]

* Cock up Alert!*

I ordered the wrong bearings for the lay shaft mod

The bearings actually needed are MF126ZZ

6mm ID

12mm OD

4 mm Deep

Hope no one else ordered the wrong ones after my post

Still , its always good to have more bearings in stock!

Russ B , I took a look at YS on Ebay ..they don't appear to have a MT2 ER25 collet chuck for sale at the moment.

[Peter HallParticipant @peterhall61789]

Posted by Graham Meek on 13/04/2014 20:06:27:A sleeve was turned up to go between the two bearings and this is retained with Loctite 603. Just for added security I dowelled the sleeve with a 1.5 mm diameter pin.

For the benefit of a novice, could someone take the trouble to explain why (and how) this was done?

This is an excellent thread and I'm planning on doing some of the mods to my machines. I've already fitted some carriage stops as seen on mikesworkshop. Thanks, Mike!

Pete

[Peter HallParticipant @peterhall61789]

That's excellent. Thank you very much.

Pete

[Peter HallParticipant @peterhall61789]

Hi Gray,

Thank you for your comprehensive description; it looks a straightforward job. I can probably work out the downfeed and vertical feedscrew mods for myself, but if you have the opportunity to post drawings and/or pictures I'm sure I wouldn't be the only one interested to see how you did it.

Just to add my tuppence worth to the thread, I have 2 X1 mills: one Clarke which I used for two years before the small table size became a nuisance (it is now my drill press) and a second-hand, but essentially unused Sieg machine with the larger table which I have been using for three years. I've never had any problem with the gears in either of them, but have been aware that they are small machines for light use. I like them a lot.

Pete

Oh, and I get my bearings from http://www.technobotsonline.com/ as they are local to me. They stock a useful range of components and are fast, helpful and keen on price.

Edited By Peter Hall on 16/04/2014 17:20:59

[Russ BParticipant @russb]

Just looking to gather thoughts,

what are the pros/cons between your method and a plain thrust bearing either side – and would mini angular contacts be good? (although I don't think I've ever seen any this small)

+)

[Russ BParticipant @russb]

hmm, way off topic now, ignore my previous post and I'll save that thread for another day!

[Russ BParticipant @russb]

Gray,

thanks for the link, I'm confident I'll find a use for them somewhere!

[Matt InkelParticipant @mattinkel67388]

Gray,can I ask how you marked the divisions and numbering on your micrometer dials there,you have done a beautiful job…I agree about the handles,id prefer smalker ones on mine..the metal inserts arent even central on my stock ones and the camber like a wobbly wheel!

Matt

[Matt InkelParticipant @mattinkel67388]

Very professional finish Gray,thanks for taking the time to show how its done

I’ll have to give it a try sometime

Matt

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