How do you make a lifting eye

[steamdaveParticipant @steamdave]

I want to make a lifting eye, the diameter of the ring is about 1/4".

I can't think where to get a ring of that sort of size that I could solder to a stem and I don't think I could bend a bar neatly enough to form the ring.

Any suggestions, please?

Dave
The Emerald Isle

[steamdaveParticipant @steamdave]

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

What is the weight of the object you are attempting to lift? is 1/4" the ID of the 'eye' or the thickness ? I personally wouldn't 'solder' it to a stem, far better to braze or weld it, better still have a look on eBay there's bound to be a supplier for that size for a very reasonable price.

George.

[David George 1Participant @davidgeorge1]

Hi Dave is the section of the ring 1/4 inch or the ring diameter of the ring 1/4 inch? if the section of the ring is 1/4 inch these are available for about £3 to £4 and they are called dynamo eye bolts. If it is the small type I would make it from a piece of flat steel turn the thread and collar then rough mill the ring on a rotary table and file and Dremmell to finish the ring.

David

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Never tried doing this, and I'm not sure which dimension is 1/4" but how about one link of a chain stretched from oval to round with a tapered punch?

Bill

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Try …

https://www.s3i.co.uk/eye-bolts.php

Looks like very good prices.

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 07/03/2019 11:49:36

[steamdaveParticipant @steamdave]

Apologies for not being clearer with the dimensions.

I'm not worried about loading capability as it will be 'decorative'. Internal diameter of eye will be 1/4". Bar thickness commensurate with diameter to 'look the part'.

David, I tried using a screw eye and fitting a 'washer' to the bottom of the eye to hide the join, but didn't like the result. Your method is one that I originally thought about doing it and will probably end up doing it that way.

Good suggestion, George, but unfortunately they are too large.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Assuming it's 1/4" diameter, presumably this is for a model, not a working lifting eye? If so, perhaps copper wire wrapped round a mandrel, cut to butt the ends, and then soldered to a brass bolt. Paint to disguise construction.

Not sure making a real lifting eye is a good idea in a home-workshop. As they have to be strong and are often safety critical, they're made out of suitably specified steel by drop forging a billet. No drilling, bending or welding and the steel is strengthened by the blow. Not a process many of us are equipped to do!

Dave

Edit.  Really need to type faster – Dave explained it's for a model while I was thinking.

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 07/03/2019 12:40:30

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I'd just wrap some wire or rod around something suitable, snip off a "Ring" and solder to the "bolt"

Or just drill a hole in some flat bar and round over the edges, turn and thread the shank did these eye bolts that way but that is why you get me to make your models

If you are feeling flush then GHW in Germany sell them ready made

 

Edited By JasonB on 07/03/2019 13:21:00

Edited By JasonB on 07/03/2019 13:22:20

[John McNamaraParticipant @johnmcnamara74883]

Hi

Maybe a cable eye bolt can be cut down?

**LINK**

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Why not make from 1/2" round bar, milled both sides flat equally to 1/8" thick on the centreline, drill a 1/4" crosshole and radius countersink both sides, then file or bench grind the ring profile? That's what I've done a few times.

[vintage engineerParticipant @vintageengineer]

They are normally drop forged,

[I.M. OUTAHEREParticipant @i-m-outahere]

In this video Joe shows how he makes decorative chain , you could use a similar approach to make the rings for your dummy lifting eye by ising a piece if 1/4 OD rOd as a mandrel – it’s just a close wound spring or coil as you will see .. Some suitably sized screws with the heads turned to the required profile are easy to do then soft solder together . A simple alignment jig would also be beneficial to hold the parts in the right position for soldering . If you don’t mind having the ring with a square or rectangle cross section you could use small spring washers after bending the offset out so the open ends lign up .

**LINK**

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by vintage engineer on 07/03/2019 22:30:35:

They are normally drop forged,

.

That's true for the real ones ^^^

but steamdave has confirmed that he is making a 'decorative' miniature

MichaelG.

[Sam Longley 1Participant @samlongley1]

size "0"—so they are obtainable. Dunno how many 1000's you have to buy though & not so much fun as making one

But finding a supplier in the UK ???

**LINK**

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 08/03/2019 07:36:52

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Seem to be quite a few on e-bay, looks like M3 ones have a 7mm hole which you may get away with

[steamdaveParticipant @steamdave]

Thanks for the updated suggestions.

I'll see the exact size I need when I get to that stage, but I may well get away with the M3 size. With no detailed photos, who will notice the odd few thou difference!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

[vintage engineerParticipant @vintageengineer]

It would be too hard to make a die and hammer them out as they are quite small.

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 08/03/2019 07:25:37:

Posted by vintage engineer on 07/03/2019 22:30:35:

They are normally drop forged,

.

That's true for the real ones ^^^

but steamdave has confirmed that he is making a 'decorative' miniature

MichaelG.

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

A bit of wire from a wire coat hanger would be about right for an eye with a 1/4" hole, and it's easy to bend. I have some copper wire in 8 and 10 SWG, and 3/16", and that would be my choice, but I'm a little far away. I,v got a pair similar size on a model generator.

Ian S C

[Author]

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