3 jaw chuck D1-3 pins loose as a goose

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3 jaw chuck D1-3 pins loose as a goose

Home Forums Beginners questions 3 jaw chuck D1-3 pins loose as a goose

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  • #7928
    Deleted Account
    Participant
      @deletedaccount69088

      D1-3 pins loose – is that okay?

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      #217239
      Deleted Account
      Participant
        @deletedaccount69088

        Hi,

        New to the world of D1 chucks – actually they are very strange but safe I'm told for reversing when mounted properly.

        I was wondering if its okay for the D1-3 pins to be loose ? By that what I mean is they turn about 5 degrees and ever so slightly rock. There is a hexagonal bolt next to each.

        Yet I have another small D1-3 3 jaw chuck were they do not rock or turn. So now I'm not sure about anything. Please help.

        #217246
        Nick_G
        Participant
          @nick_g

          I think I know what you are asking.

          When I get home I will make a little video of do's and don't for camlocks.

          #217255
          Nick_G
          Participant
            @nick_g

            .

            Here you go.!

            Simpler to show than type.

            Nick
            #217257
            Emgee
            Participant
              @emgee

              Hi Nick

              Doesn't your chuck and spindle have preferred fitting points marked ? so you always fit to the same orientation.

              Emgee

              #217261
              Nick_G
              Participant
                @nick_g
                Posted by Emgee on 20/12/2015 23:44:56:

                Hi Nick

                Doesn't your chuck and spindle have preferred fitting points marked ? so you always fit to the same orientation.

                Emgee

                .

                Yes they do. And yes I do. I should have mentioned that.

                My bad.! ……….. I shall spank myself in punishment. wink

                Nick

                #217271
                John Rudd
                Participant
                  @johnrudd16576

                  Nick,

                  Toward the end of the video, you mentioned the position of the locks being between the v symbols and adjusting the height of the pins on the back of the chuck…..does this mean that it is possible to have the pins set at differing heights?

                  Great explanation btw…yes

                  #217272
                  Dave Martin
                  Participant
                    @davemartin29320

                    Thanks Nick, a great explanation. A couple of things (as a D1-5 user) I'd add are:

                    1/ Reference the original question, the cam pins are a 'loose' fit for a reason. If the pin was fitted rigidly to the chuck, the axis of the cut-out in the pin would need to be on exactly the same radial axis as the cam in lathe nose – if it was out by even a degree or two all the cam effort would be on one edge of the cutout with potential damage to the cam and galling to the pin. Having a degree or two of float in the pin allows the pin to self-orient itself to the cam when the first pressure is applied; also the threads are often tapped a little 'loose' to ensure the pins can move sideways a tiny bit to avoid fighting with the tapered-register alignment between the backplate and nose (in some ways analogous to a floating reamer holder).

                    2/ If anyone ever need to replace camlock pins, just be aware that whilst the visible part of the pin is standard, the threaded portion that mates with the backplate can have different threads (I once bought a pin-less chuck and found none of my existing pins would fit – metric vs. imperial)

                    3/ If changing pins, there's often a groove scribed around the pin, screw it in until that is level with the register face of the chuck, then pop the locking screw in – then, as Nick said, don't be surprised if you need to go in or out a turn.

                    4/ If, rather than a 3-cam, its a 6-cam chuck/nose, then recommended sequence for nipping/tightening is 1,3,5,2,4,6 to avoid risk of pulling chuck off-centre

                    5/ Especially if its a really heavy chuck, always try & bring each cam to the top before tightening to counteract gravity

                    6/ I'd always use a board between the chuck & bed just in case!

                    Dave

                    Edited By Dave Martin on 21/12/2015 08:56:48

                    #217274
                    Dave Martin
                    Participant
                      @davemartin29320
                      Posted by John Rudd on 21/12/2015 08:17:15:

                      Nick,

                      Toward the end of the video, you mentioned the position of the locks being between the v symbols and adjusting the height of the pins on the back of the chuck…..does this mean that it is possible to have the pins set at differing heights?

                      Great explanation btw…yes

                      John, yes, the idea is that if the indicator mark on the cam lies between the two V-marks, that effectively equates to the tolerance for one thread's pitch on the backplate. This way (as I understand it) the backplates, and indeed the pins, can be 'free tapped/threaded'. The cam will always be clear of the pin bore when the mark on the cam is aligned with the mark on the nose at 12 o'clock above each pin; if the cam locks-up when its index falls between the V marks then its safely locked. On my Chester "Cub" lathe's D1-5 nose, it doesn't have the pair of Vs as Nick showed, it just has one mark at 12 o'clock and another at about 4 o'clock and at first I did needlessly worry that not every pin on every chuck locked at exactly the same position.

                      Dave (not Nick!)

                      Edited By Dave Martin on 21/12/2015 09:14:05

                      #217278
                      John Stevenson 1
                      Participant
                        @johnstevenson1

                        Another D1-5 user here, these are a bit rare in the UK, tend to go from D1-4 to D1-6.

                        The D1-5 is a 6 pin camlock but I have cheated and removed 3 of the cams and replaced them with blanking plugs to speed up chuck changing which for me is a lot.

                        On a busy day i might swap chucks anything from 4 to 7 times per day.

                        Also gives you a shed load of spare pins for special projects wink

                        I agree with what Dave says two posts above #2 item.

                        When I had a lathe with Di-3 fitting I had pins with 3/8" BSF, 3/8" UNF, M10 x 1.0, M10 x1.25 and M10 x 1.5 threads

                        #217338
                        Deleted Account
                        Participant
                          @deletedaccount69088
                          Posted by Nick_G on 20/12/2015 21:14:26:

                          I think I know what you are asking.

                          When I get home I will make a little video of do's and don't for camlocks.

                          Thanks Nick, nice video.

                          That answers my question plus how to mount the chuck properly which I was not sure on.

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