tramming chasing perfection waste of time ?

tramming chasing perfection waste of time ?

Home Forums Beginners questions tramming chasing perfection waste of time ?

Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #9034
    BW
    Participant
      @bw
      #335560
      BW
      Participant
        @bw

        "Posted by JasonB on 05/01/2018 20:44:50:
        Posted by Neil Wyatt on 05/01/2018 19:11:12:

        Also, unless the mill is trammed absolutely perfectly either only the leading edge will cut or the trailing edge will cut.

        And when you get it set right you end up with almost a hologram or damascused look.

        Absolutely true, but (a) how many people can get that* and (b) the only difference between flycutter and mill on that machine will be the type of pattern produced.

        Neil"

        I get the impression from the above quotes that chasing tramming perfection might well be very difficult and possibly a waste of time.

        Also, I have an RF30 round column mill, I think that every time I move the head the tram changes slightly and that this is normal for this type of mill.

        My mill was badly out of tram when I bought it, its a lot better now but not perfect. It doesnt seem to mattter much on what I am doing at the moment.

        The "troughs" dont seem to matter too much.

        What %age of small workshop mills can achieve the damascus pattern referred to above ?

        Any comments, hints, recommended books, websites or threads will be gratefully received on this issue.

        Bill

        #335562
        Peter Simpson 1
        Participant
          @petersimpson1

          I have a Tom Senior light vertical milling machine. The E type also sits on a round shaft. I have spent ages attempting to get the head exactly 90' to the table. When fly cutting it still tends to back cut when cutting in one direction. I cannot afford the twin type DTI set up just to correct this very minor error.

          #335565
          JasonB
          Moderator
            @jasonb

            For those that missed the other thread this is the pattern.

            flycut.jpg

            That is on my Chinese X3 mill, trammed not long after I bought it and not touched since, that part was cut 9yrs after tramming which if I remember rightly did not take that long to do. So over a 10year period I don't think a half hour of so is time wasted.

            A flycutter set to swing about a 4" circle with a sharp cutter and a bit of scrap ali or brass is a very good way to check that you have your tram set correctly after setting, take light cuts.

            I have no fancy measuring devices and may well have done that with a square up against a bit of tool steel in a collet.

            Edited By JasonB on 06/01/2018 08:02:03

            #335570
            doubletop
            Participant
              @doubletop

              Jason

              That is impressive. I don't think I've ever had my X3 cutting that well. I've got one of those fancy tramming jobers, had a go at the ARC quill setup instruction more than once, replaced all the quill bearings and have the jibs as tight as they can practicably be. I must have another go.

              Pete

              #335574
              Mick B1
              Participant
                @mickb1

                Jason's result is excellent, but it doesn't practically need to be quite that good for the huge majority of work.

                There's an old saying – popularisation attributed to Voltaire – "Don't let perfection be an enemy of the good".

                #335577
                pgk pgk
                Participant
                  @pgkpgk17461

                  I've got the chester super-lux mill. Tramming that is a pita with three holding bolts and every time you tighten one the tram moves. It makes no difference whether one tries to go around them bit by bit or get two just tight enough to still move the head before doggng down the last then giving the first two a bit more etc. I've had it to that type of pattern with overlapping front and rear flycutter arcs but inevitably it moves after a few months and another hour or two of messing about to dial out the last fractions. In fact one has to assess the degree of 'out of tram' before tightening down to get it right when tightened. It is what it is.

                  Reality for me is that I don't usually have a need to work to tolerances where that matters and very slightly out of tram can give a mirror finish on ally with a flycutter. A heavier cut on steel will deflect the forward cutter arc more than the rear unless one builds a more rigid flycutter. My best cosmetic results on steel are with a solid bar-mounted round carbide tip.

                Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
                • Please log in to reply to this topic. Registering is free and easy using the links on the menu at the top of this page.

                Latest Replies

                Home Forums Beginners questions Topics

                Viewing 25 topics - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)
                Viewing 25 topics - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)

                View full reply list.