Norman, the OP says that he already has the top bit! Your recommendation would leave him with two!

Mr. Builder, I bought a lump of cast iron from College Engineering but dreaded the job of hewing away a fair proportion of it. (College Engineering wisely counsel prospective customers to allow for dimensional tolerances on the material; I did that but on the lump I received they were all + !) I don't have a mill so would have had to do the job on the Myford. While I was working up the courage to start the job an 'orphan' ML7 block appeared on eBay and my bid was successful. I should explain that I was starting with the QC rear tool-post model sized for the 254S, also an eBay purchase. I could have reduced the height of the lower block that came with that but I chose not to go down that path.

I note that some tool-posts have a hole in one corner – mine doesn't. The lower block has its two lugs to fit in the cross-slide tee-slot to prevent the block from turning. I have found that my top part does suffer a tendency to rotate. A hole in the lower block and a suitable pin would prevent that.

I still have the lump of cast iron!

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 21/06/2017 11:22:03

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 21/06/2017 11:22:30

Just so Clive!

I was in the same position and yes I ended up with a spare – I still have it and maybe it will be useful some day. The important thing about QCTP is to have plenty of tool holders – otherwise the QC bit is not that at all!

Norman

I thought making piles of swarf was the fun part of the hobby

You could make it a bit simpler by having less of a step where the two studs go or even use cap head screws into drilled and Counterbored holes which would save having to remove as much metal there. Lugs could be replaced with a bit of bar set into a milled slot. So that would mean it is really just a rectangular block, quick enough to tidy that up in the 4 jaw then poke a few holes in it.

In MEW Roger Vane described and gave excellent instructions for making the base which looks almost "Myford".

As I have three QCTP's and use only one at the moment I decided that this was to be my next project. So I bought a block of Meehanite and put it on the shelf.

I then decided to change my mill, and whilst waiting for the new machine I covered all my workshop shelves (19 of them!) with 3mm perspex – easy to wipe clean.

Whilst waiting for the new mill I decided to use the present Warco WS16. An excellent machine which has given excellent service and much pleasure over the last three years.

In the meantime the Meehanite had disappeared!!!!

I have turned out the w/s but no cast iron.

So looked in the drawers and found a block of ali that would be just right.

Into the mill and after watching the table weaving it's way there and back a few times I had the block.

Mounted on the S7B's x-slide it is as near perfect as anything – even allowing for me having made it.

So don't buy one – make it.

If I can (I'm 85, a carer and church organist) anyone can.

Good luck

Richard2.

Whichever route you take to getting a rear mounted part off tool it will be worth it. I made a simple block for my 14"x40" lathe and used an indexable tip holder from ARC. The set up lives permanently on the back of the cross slide and does not interfere with day to day turning ops so no need for quick change.

+1 on Clive Foster's observations.

After a long run of rear-mounted parting successes, I recently broke an insert half-way through a parting cut. Checking the tool height with a new insert showed the tip to be slightly low, not on centre as originally set up. I'd shimmed the tool holder with a strip of drink-can aluminium. I think the aluminium deformed under pressure, slowly dropping the edge until it dug in.

Turning and facing are much more tolerant of errors in tool height.

Dave

Like Nobby my rear mounted tool post is just a mild steel block. I made a new cross slide for my lathe and incorporated tee slots which I did not have previously so no problems getting the parting tool square.