If storage area is reasonably warm and dry,a light smear of 3 in 1 oil helps retain the shine, if stored under worse conditions then a thicker oil ,e.g. a straight 30 motor oil helps keep rust at bay, though i have found that high grade motor oils are not as good as mono grade cheap oils.possibly due to the good oil absorbing water. Only use wd 40 to dry out a model that has got wet,it does not keep water at bay for long periods. on larger model stationary engines or full size restored engines ,one way to keep the flywheels and other bright parts bright is to oil up the bright surfaces with cheap oil and then cover the surface with cling film. Ideal for winter storage.

Unless you live in a very damp house I would not worry. I made my D10 about 30years ago and its sat on various shelves ever since no sign of rust on any of the bare metal be it steel or iron.

This is a video of it taken a few months ago, not much sign of rust, dust on the other hand is more of a problem!

How about renaissance wax, quite expensive but its great stuff for allsorts of things.

This stuff is brilliant.

I have been using this one small 2" diameter tub on carbon steel knives, etc. for years. The tub contains an impregnated cloth. One wipe over and the steel/iron is rust proofed.

Rod

Beeswax or furniture polish

When my brother worked in carpentry he used Future floor coating on his tools to prevent rust. Based on his experience I used Future to protect soil sampling tubes from rust. It worked beautifully. Is Future available in the UK?

I find that highly polished surfaces are not prone to rust if kept indoors, with no need for coatings. The exception is EN1A – it rusts before you get it off the machine tool. These cast iron flywheels reside in the assembly hall (sorry, I meant kitchen) and seem fine so far:

Andrew

ACF50 (google it) spray onto paper towel or chamois swab and apply very lightly.

Back in the day (80's) I bought some rust inhibit paper.

it still works

No gunge to clean off