Slitting saw arbours

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Slitting saw arbours

This topic has 13 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 5 July 2016 at 16:21 by Carl Wilson 4.

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4 July 2016 at 21:38 #18132
Carl Wilson 4
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@carlwilson4
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4 July 2016 at 21:38 #245432
Carl Wilson 4
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@carlwilson4
Going to make an arbour for some 1″ bore slitting saws I have acquired.

1. Key on arbour or not? Will just a clamping nut drive sufficiently for home use?

2. Arbour to be made to run in a collet or make a more taper?

Opinions please.

Tapadh Leat,

Carl.
4 July 2016 at 21:44 #245435
Carl Wilson 4
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@carlwilson4
Morse taper I meant.
4 July 2016 at 21:55 #245438
Bob Brown 1
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@bobbrown1
I made one which just relies on the clamp load but it was thin less than 0.5mm, my logic was better to let it slip than break.
4 July 2016 at 22:00 #245439
Michael Gilligan
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@michaelgilligan61133
Are you only expecting one person to reply, Carl?

**LINK**

.

The general wisdom is that slitting saws are safer without keys.

However; if you run them that way, the retaining screw/nut can tighten up … So remember to include spanner flats or a cross-hole on the arbor. … I write from bitter experience with a small [1/4" bore] saw.

MichaelG.
5 July 2016 at 00:07 #245450
Carl Wilson 4
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@carlwilson4
Thanks for the advice. Was thinking about a simple design with a relatively thick clamping disc secured by a countersunk M8 screw.
5 July 2016 at 00:12 #245452
Carl Wilson 4
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@carlwilson4
And if I put the almost finished blank in the collet I want to use in the mill, I should be able to finish turn it against a tool in the vice. Thus the finished diameter should have almost no runout. In theory….
5 July 2016 at 00:20 #245455
MW
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@mw27036
The slitting saws i buy that are 5" wide with a 1" bore all have a keyway and although i have both a keywayed and non keywayed arbour i've never used it keywayed. I found that the load on the tool was rather minimal. Make sure you make the arbor long enough to take advantage of it because your collet chuck will need to take up some of the room and enough arbor to fill atleast 2/3rds of the collet, if you don't use this much room the consequences will be an arbor that spins out of round. (presuming this is an ER collet, where the makers of the ER system themselves give these guidelines).

Michael W

Edited By Michael Walters on 05/07/2016 00:22:35
5 July 2016 at 07:14 #245467
Ian S C
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@iansc
If you use a Morse Taper on the arbour, it must have a draw bar, although if used in a lathe, support from a tailstock centre is possible.

Ian S C
5 July 2016 at 08:37 #245474
Carl Wilson 4
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@carlwilson4
Thanks Michael and Ian. Collet engagement depth and drawbar requirement duly noted.
5 July 2016 at 10:24 #245497
Michael Cox 1
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@michaelcox1
If you use a thick washer with countersunk screw you will find that this limits what you can cut especially when it is held in a vice.

I prefer this style of slitting saw arbour:

http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/slitting-saw-arbor.html

I agree with others that there is no need for a key.

Mike
5 July 2016 at 14:18 #245520
chris stephens
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@chrisstephens63393
The best design slitting saw arbour I have seen so far is Stefan Gotteswinter's

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRQPv4AG2HQ and part two

but Robrenz comes a novel second with his superglued one when he made his micro-Ohm meter probes. If you haven't come across him yet, he is a perfectionist's perfectionist with attention to detail scales off the charts.
5 July 2016 at 16:01 #245526
Raymond Anderson
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@raymondanderson34407
Carl, if you decide to do as you mention and finish turn the arbor whilst held in the mill spindle your mill head would need to be very well trammed in or else a taper will result. best if you did them in the lathe. A slight radial runout on the finished arbor is not so critical, but any Axial runout [wobble] is. Its the Axial runout that causes slitting saws to wander and jam up. There is no more than 0.005mm [Axial ] at the edge of a 100 Ø blade on these. They are made from EN24T steel, two are ISO 30 and one is straight shank. I have never need a key. Also you need to remember that when slitting deep, the mill head MUST be trammed in very very close to perfect in the X and Y because if not, in a deep cut the blade WILL jam up.
5 July 2016 at 16:21 #245527
Carl Wilson 4
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@carlwilson4
Thanks to Mike, Raymond and Chris. Really good info. Don’t think my mill will be up to turning in situ…Thanks for all the tips.
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