Kevan – I have one and it is my second. Quality is very much down to the original builder – mine have both been second or third hand. Brian Wood (forum member) is particularly well-versed in the pros and cons. From the viewpoint of an untrained 'bodger', I find them to be ideal for my purposes, especially since I have a Myford lathe and the two are compatible. I would expect there to be more expert assessments from other members.

rgds

Bill

Probably best that you try out (say) a Sieg X2 style machine then a Dore Westbury before you buy , somehow.

The DW is certainly versatile but that has its downsides.

Hello Kevan,

I noted Cornish Jack's comments–my own version is a Mk II with the gearbox in the head which I built about 28 years ago. It has served me well over all that time and done things which might have been very difficult or even impossible on a similar sized machine with a rigid back.

Some owners will condemn the round column and yes it can be a pain, but it has the real advantage of allowing you the freedom of use that a radial arm machine possesses. I use a laser lecture pointer mounted on the head to return to position, a matter of moments to use and over the length of the workshop for the beam it is accurate

It has one design weakness which could be disastrous and that is the key engaging the coarse pitch square thread in the column for height adjustment over the table. Mine cracked and because it is hidden inside the capstan it remains unseen. I was lucky and found mine in time by sheer luck to put it right. The fix is easy but of course it requires a lot of stripping down to get to the capstan

I specified my kit with a 3 MT bore, try and find one thus equipped if you can

Regards Brian

Hello Kevan,

I have a MKI and MKII hybrid, and rate them both, considering their size and price-point. Because they were hand-made it also means they can fixed/repaired and upgraded. Prices vary, but like all machinery you have to carefully inspect before purchasing, and you usually get what you pay for. There are some specific things to look for. A lot is down to the original build but also what the following owners do or don't do them. I've learned from hard experience that some problems are costly to put right. A good DW is a useful machine and a pleasure to use; a bad one is just plain frustrating. I agree with all of the above, but registration becomes less of a problem if you use a collet chuck (e.g. ER25), and plan ahead.

Prices:

Unseen, need work, tired (worn), desperate for space: £300-£500

Decent to good condition, components (including bearings) with plenty of life, accurate, smooth running, mostly standard, well maintained: £500-£750

Excellent condition, excellent build quality, well maintained, omponents (including bearings) with plenty of life, accurate, smooth running, with extras (e.g. DROs, drill stops, gearbox, VFD etc.); usually MKII but could be MKI: £750-£1200.

If you're anywhere near Surrey you're welcome to pop in, have a chat, and try the MKI; the MKII is still under construction.

I may sell the MKI when the MKII is done.

All best, Aaron