‘What LatheXXXXX sorry 3D Printer should I buy’

[Mark Simpson 1Participant @marksimpson1]

By coincidence, here's my first print from my new factory 3d Printer…

Looking good (so far!)

[Colin LLoydParticipant @colinlloyd53450]

Hi Jeff – thanks for the advice – because I haven't had problems before I never thought about using sacrificial parts – but I will from now on – and your suggestions make perfect sense.

Neil – Cura is an option in Repetier-Host that I might try. Again, Like Jeff – your suggestions make perfect sense and I will keep these in the back of my mind in future.

The apparent "brim" around the outside of the wall is actually part of the pickup cover allowing the two items (pickup and pickup cover) to be joined to the pickguard. On the question of PVA – do you just use any DIY PVA from the likes of B&Q or some specialist "fine" PVA as sold as paper and cardboard glue by Smiths? Also what dilution do you use?

I'd just like to echo Jeff's wish for a "Merry Christmas" to all forum members.

[JourneymanParticipant @journeyman]

Ordinary white PVA wood glue from Wickes diluted 50/50 with water. Sticks like wotsit to a blanket, I have managed to delaminate several chunks of glass from my mirror build plates. Find that if a part is really stuck solid after cooling making it wet will eventually loosen the grip.

John

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Up till now I've been happy printing form the SD card but I would like to be able to control the Factory 3D printer from a PC. Trying to connect to Pronterface on a W10 laptop but no joy so far – any suggestions please?

Cheers,

Rod

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Mark Simpson 1 on 22/12/2017 15:28:22:

By coincidence, here's my first print from my new factory 3d Printer…

Looking good (so far!)

Is that the new quick release holder for the MK8 hotend?

Could you post some pics from the side, I think I want to print myself one!

Y-idler tension screw is a sensible addition too.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Colin LLoyd on 22/12/2017 16:47:17:

The apparent "brim" around the outside of the wall is actually part of the pickup cover allowing the two items (pickup and pickup cover) to be joined to the pickguard. On the question of PVA – do you just use any DIY PVA from the likes of B&Q or some specialist "fine" PVA as sold as paper and cardboard glue by Smiths? Also what dilution do you use?

Yep, realise that, the Cura brim goes around the whole perimeter, inside and out. I'll post a pic in a bit when the stepper mount I'm printing is a bit taller.

I use super-cheap PVA from Hobbycraft, diluted 50/50. Just make sure it's 'washable' not waterproof!

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Journeyman on 22/12/2017 17:09:57:

Ordinary white PVA wood glue from Wickes diluted 50/50 with water. Sticks like wotsit to a blanket, I have managed to delaminate several chunks of glass from my mirror build plates. Find that if a part is really stuck solid after cooling making it wet will eventually loosen the grip.

I bought some borosilicate (pyrex-type) glass, much tougher, no chipping, unlikely to fail due to heat cycling. Not as flat as I would like, one corner is low.

Neil

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Here we go, this is a brim, it looks chunky but the brim is the thickness of a couple of sheets of paper.

Actually, that's a good test of Z-height and levelling, start a sizeable print and stop it after one layer. If you can peel off a flexible sheet with no holes or splits and reasonably consistent thickness, then your machine is well set up.

[Iain DownsParticipant @iaindowns78295]

End of today and the machine isn't far off. Just got to put the Head bits on and the electronics.

Apart from the general Y axis setup, the hardest thing so far is getting the little washers in the idlers. tweezers and a deep breath managed it in the end.

Iain

[Mark Simpson 1Participant @marksimpson1]

Neil.

"Is that the new quick release holder for the MK8 hotend?

Could you post some pics from the side, I think I want to print myself one!

Y-idler tension screw is a sensible addition too"

3 extra photos in my 3d printing album, let me know if you want dimensions
There is a square socket at the bottom for a captive square M4 nut

[Colin LLoydParticipant @colinlloyd53450]

On another matter – has anybody had the following problem with Mk8 hotends: while I have no difficulty in removing the extruder nozzle from a heater unit – the hollow screwed tube that contains the teflon tube and connects the aluminium heater block to the stepper motor/filament supply unit often becomes welded somehow to the aluminium block (whether leaked liquid filament glueing it or actual metal welding I don't know) to the extent that trying to unscrew the tube (using twin locking nuts) causes the tube to shear off. The only solution then is to drill and ream out the screwed (in both senses of the word) tube or just get (or make) a new aluminium block.

Perhaps there is a high temperature grease that I can apply to the thread before inserting into the aluminium block. Any comments/suggestions would be welcomed.

[JourneymanParticipant @journeyman]

Colin, I have found that maintenance on the hot end is best carried out whilst still hot before the plastic has had time to set. Most importand bit is to make sure that there is no gap between the tube and nozzle so the plastic can't get into the threads in the first place. I always put the nozzle in first leaving it a thread length clear of the block. Then screw the tube in until it touches the nozzle and holding the tube in the vice (aluminium jaws) finally tighten the nozzle up using a socket which will clamp everything together.

John

[Martin NewboldParticipant @martinnewbold]

AM still reading ths thread with interest and thank you for all the information. I notice this is al beeing done with plastics. But read some talk of aluminium. I am aware of hot flame guns which spray aluminium but am unsure if there is a head available which would work in the same way as the plastic systems , Are these aluminium printeres operational how do the heads work please?

[JourneymanParticipant @journeyman]

Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 22/12/2017 17:35:18:

Up till now I've been happy printing form the SD card but I would like to be able to control the Factory 3D printer from a PC. Trying to connect to Pronterface on a W10 laptop but no joy so far – any suggestions please?

Cheers,

Rod

Rod, I have not tried this but was advised by Factory3D that printing from the PC via USB was not a good idea. I can only assume it is to do with latency problems as suffered by CNC systems especially from laptops with all their power saving software. I still find using the SD card sufficient for my needs. I use a couple and can set the printer running whilst using CAD on the PC and preparing a part to print onto another SD card.

John

[Colin LLoydParticipant @colinlloyd53450]

Posted by Journeyman on 23/12/2017 15:31:26:

Colin, I have found that maintenance on the hot end is best carried out whilst still hot before the plastic has had time to set. Most importand bit is to make sure that there is no gap between the tube and nozzle so the plastic can't get into the threads in the first place. I always put the nozzle in first leaving it a thread length clear of the block. Then screw the tube in until it touches the nozzle and holding the tube in the vice (aluminium jaws) finally tighten the nozzle up using a socket which will clamp everything together.

John

Thanks John – the only bit of your advice that I haven't done until now is "maintenance while hot". I even make the teflon sleeves a bit longer so that it forms a pressure seal against the nozzle. The only times I've had to do maintenance on the hotend is with PLA – which if you leave it in place after a "build" tends to break off leaving a short length in the hot end – I've learnt not to do this now and reverse the filament out of the hotend – while hot. This breakage doesn't happen with ABS – and its quite OK to leave the filament in the hotend – ready for the next print

[Colin LLoydParticipant @colinlloyd53450]

Posted by Journeyman on 23/12/2017 16:22:13:

Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 22/12/2017 17:35:18:

Up till now I've been happy printing form the SD card but I would like to be able to control the Factory 3D printer from a PC. Trying to connect to Pronterface on a W10 laptop but no joy so far – any suggestions please?

Cheers,

Rod

Rod, I have not tried this but was advised by Factory3D that printing from the PC via USB was not a good idea. I can only assume it is to do with latency problems as suffered by CNC systems especially from laptops with all their power saving software. I still find using the SD card sufficient for my needs. I use a couple and can set the printer running whilst using CAD on the PC and preparing a part to print onto another SD card.

John

I've had no problems at all with running Repetier-Host/Slic3r under Windows 7 from a Sony Viao laptop via USB to my Geetech Prusa i3 Pro B Printer. I know the latency problem is there with CNC machines – as I have to run my CNC engraver/router from a desktop PC using LinuxCNC software via its parallel port. USB – being a serial communication – cannot deal with the often parallel operations that CNC machines operating at speed need to deal with. 3D printers don't run at the speeds that CNC machines do – so I just wonder whether this is why USB communication seems to work (at least for me) with 3D Printers. The problem with USB may also be a legacy from USB 1.0 – something that may not be there with USB 3.0 or 3.1. Of course – if the software on board the 3D printer cannot accept USB 3.0 then that may be the problem. There are CNC USB controller boards that evidently take the place of the parallel port communication – although I suspect that these boards just buffer the serial data into a parallel port configuration before sending the data to the various stepper motors etc -see, for example

https://planet-cnc.com/hardware/

Colin

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Thanks for the comments. I don't really want to print from the PC but the ability to move the axes or extrude on command would be useful for set up and maintenance.

Cheers and happy Christmas,

Rod

[Ian Skeldon 2Participant @ianskeldon2]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/12/2017 21:02:08:

Here we go, this is a brim, it looks chunky but the brim is the thickness of a couple of sheets of paper.

Actually, that's a good test of Z-height and levelling, start a sizeable print and stop it after one layer. If you can peel off a flexible sheet with no holes or splits and reasonably consistent thickness, then your machine is well set up.

What are the two lines running across the internal diameter Neil?

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Mark Simpson 1 on 23/12/2017 10:24:53:

Neil.

"Is that the new quick release holder for the MK8 hotend?

Could you post some pics from the side, I think I want to print myself one!

Y-idler tension screw is a sensible addition too"

3 extra photos in my 3d printing album, let me know if you want dimensions
There is a square socket at the bottom for a captive square M4 nut

Thanks Mark – but I was meaning the whole assembly – I assume it uses a different back plate as well?

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Ian Skeldon 2 on 23/12/2017 20:45:03:

What are the two lines running across the internal diameter Neil?

Just stringing. I pretty much have the retraction settings dialled but occasionally a particular shape will cause one to form.

Neil

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Colin LLoyd on 23/12/2017 15:14:27:

On another matter – has anybody had the following problem with Mk8 hotends: while I have no difficulty in removing the extruder nozzle from a heater unit – the hollow screwed tube that contains the teflon tube and connects the aluminium heater block to the stepper motor/filament supply unit often becomes welded somehow to the aluminium block (whether leaked liquid filament glueing it or actual metal welding I don't know) to the extent that trying to unscrew the tube (using twin locking nuts) causes the tube to shear off. The only solution then is to drill and ream out the screwed (in both senses of the word) tube or just get (or make) a new aluminium block.

Perhaps there is a high temperature grease that I can apply to the thread before inserting into the aluminium block. Any comments/suggestions would be welcomed.

This has happened to me.

I suggest fitting the tube first, then its locknut THEN fitting the nozzle.

A bit of graphite powder might help.

[Colin LLoydParticipant @colinlloyd53450]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/12/2017 19:39:57:

Posted by Colin LLoyd on 22/12/2017 16:47:17:

The apparent "brim" around the outside of the wall is actually part of the pickup cover allowing the two items (pickup and pickup cover) to be joined to the pickguard. On the question of PVA – do you just use any DIY PVA from the likes of B&Q or some specialist "fine" PVA as sold as paper and cardboard glue by Smiths? Also what dilution do you use?

Yep, realise that, the Cura brim goes around the whole perimeter, inside and out. I'll post a pic in a bit when the stepper mount I'm printing is a bit taller.

I use super-cheap PVA from Hobbycraft, diluted 50/50. Just make sure it's 'washable' not waterproof!

Hi Neil, – Slic3r and Cura are both mapping options within Repetier-Host and both have a "brim" function – something that I never knew until now – so rather than make a surrounding support in OpenSCAD I will try this function first to see if it cures my problem.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 13/11/2017 22:25:08:

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 13/11/2017 21:56:16:

Rod,

My Little Pony! You could be risking your credibility…

I didn't know I had any ! I do have a 12 year old niece though.

I hope you're going to give us more details of your lost PAL system.

Rod

Delayed Reaction Pedant Alert!

That something's wrong with Rod's picture has been itching away for over a month. It just came to me in a flash; 'My Little Pony' is a Unicorn! It has wings and a horn.

Good job I'm on the case eh?

Dave

[Mark Simpson 1Participant @marksimpson1]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 23/12/2017 22:47:27:

Posted by Mark Simpson 1 on 23/12/2017 10:24:53:

Neil.

"Is that the new quick release holder for the MK8 hotend?

Could you post some pics from the side, I think I want to print myself one!

Y-idler tension screw is a sensible addition too"

3 extra photos in my 3d printing album, let me know if you want dimensions
There is a square socket at the bottom for a captive square M4 nut

Thanks Mark – but I was meaning the whole assembly – I assume it uses a different back plate as well?

More photos in my 3d printing Album of the parts… I guess the backplate with the bushes is probably the same, then through bolted to that is a piece with two dovetails for the build fans, and the same bolts carry on to the "black in my case" overarm support.

The only bit of the whole thing I don't like are the supports for the build fans… They flex with the acceleration of the print head and on the second print caught on the printed part and one tore off. So I added a bit of 1/8" gas welding wire right through and a blob of araldite and no further problems….I will improve this properly with new cowl after talking to Mike at factory3D following his Christmas break…. Mine was the first MK2 kit to go out so if that's the only problem I am impressed.

Not really found the right way to tidy up the wiring yet, I'm sure I will work it out but no tidy solutions are obvious to me yet.

[Iain DownsParticipant @iaindowns78295]

Hey, Mark.

I appear to have been one of Mike's other guinea pigs for this new build.

I too had trouble with the build fans. the wedge mount snapped off on one of them with little provocation and again on an early print. Superglue has come to the rescue both times, though I'm not sure I expect the repair to keep working. I've printed another mount for when that fails.

I had some issues with the electrics. the plugs don't really match the sockets and my last build issue turned out to be a bad contact on the Y motor.

I've managed to sort of tidy up the wiring with profligate use of cable ties, but I agree that it's not the nicest part of the kit. Nor did I entirely like the electronics box.

Throughout this (and most noticeably even over Xmas) MIke has been on hand with advice and support and appears to be taking all feedback very seriously.

I'm happy with my new machine, though I've still to find something I can make which will please her indoors. I have some ideas, but let's see.

Now for the struggles with the design and slicing software. Keeps you young (ish)…

Iain

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