New Warco 290 Lathe

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Following on from my "Time for a new lathe" thread **LINK**

My lathe arived today

There were a futher two boxes on top of this, they were the stand. Nice supprise as I got the delux stand with draws

The stand alone probably weighs 50KG

Next task was to remove the packaging around the lathe, plenty firewood for a bonfire.

Once removed I knew that lathe would be heavy so decided to remove as much as possible from it.

The lathe stripped ready for some strong friend to come round and help move into the workshop which is in the back garden.

I will take some photos when I get it installed

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Put a bit of silicon sealer under the feet so any oil or coolant won't leak down through the bolt holes in the tray and cover the draw contents in oil.

Would like to see a couple of close-ups of teh cross slide scale as it looks like it will be hard to get to the lock and gib adjusters not to mention having to extend the tailstock a lot more

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Be careful of your back when moving it! Back problems never go away. Don't ask how I know

It might be worth seeing if you can remove the motor as well. It's a heavy lump.

Russell.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The motors come off easy enough

If you are using an engine hoist make sure the strap goes inside the lead/feed screw and glass scale as neither bend well

Edited By JasonB on 09/09/2013 14:05:03

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Well it was a heavy bugger, especially the motor end!

Anyway finally got it into the workshop and used an engine hoise to lift it on the stand

Threaded straps behind the lead screw etc

Glass scale????

However I can't get it to work! Plugged in, guard down, emergency stop checked. Plug fuse and lathe fuse checked.

Am I missing something?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Have you got the end cover fitted as there is a micro switch just below the motor activated by a bit of metal on the cover. Switch to forwards, press the green button.

Glass scale = DRO scale along the back of the machine

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Yes, school boy error, had not fitted the end cover. Doooh Just had a cuppa and thought about it logically. No way should I be able to run the lathe with the gears showing, Soon as I liooked again found the micro switch

Yes the web wa away from the scales

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Got lathe into its new home

Got a big throat

Here we go Jason

Indeed, its going to be a pitta to adjust but not the end of the word, not sure how else they could have done it

I have probably lost about 3" of movement of the tailstock but again workable. What is a pittly is the saddle buts up against the splashguard before hitting the headstock end

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

The biggest problem with that loss of travel will be when working on small slender parts that need tailstock support. Its limited me several times and thats without a DRO scale in the way. The usual method is to mound the scale off the back of the cross slide so it does not foul the gibs & tailstock..

Have you got a pic of the saddle hitting the splashguard, I can't see why its does it on yours as my 280 will touch the headstock. The chuck guard and lead screw cover are what usually get in the way.

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

To be honest I thing the scale is far too big, they must be able to produce something smaller

Photo of the saddle hitting the splash guard

Just a thought, if I do need to get the tailsock close to the work I could always mount it in front of the saddle if I did not need to use the saddle tooling

Edited By petro1head on 10/09/2013 15:45:13

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi, your lathe looks nice in its new home. I have a similar lathe (HBM 290F), and as on yours the saddle hits the splash guard. With the splash guard removed I can move the saddle slighly closer to the headstock, but not much. The leadscrew cover is almost fully compressed when the saddle on my lathe hits the splash guard.

Thor

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Since you have found out how the interlocks work to stop the motor you could fit a microswitch to the cover for the saddle to contact just before the power feed crunch. If you look closely at the wiring diagram you might even find a pair of terminals in series with the interlocks that are just bridged with a wire – obviously provided for yet another safety gizmo that they decided to leave off.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Just had a look at mine and the reason I can get upto the head is that I don't have the diagonal bump to the splash guard behind the motor. Also mine did not come with a leadscrew cover

It also seems like the new ones come a lot cleaner than mine

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Eh, well Jason, my lathe too is beginning to look like yours. Turned some cast iron, so mine is more gray now.

Thor

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

I notice you max speed is 1950rpm Jason, on full chat does it show 1950 on the digital readout. Mine goes to 1800 but so far max is only 1650

Edited By petro1head on 10/09/2013 21:08:49

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I only bothered to use the higher ratio once when I first had the lathe. I tend to keep it in the lower range which is supposed to be 50-950 but I can get 48 – 1050 on a warm day. Check your belt is not too tight and it may want a while to bed in.

I have used a hand held tach against the chuck and the read outs are accurate.

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