Thanks, I have heard of errors in other curly designs, so I thought I'd ask first if there are known ones to consider. The frames are been drawn in fusion 3D, (something else I'm learning), but I hadn't wanted to re draw the whole loco. As that would take me longer than fixing a small issue. Larger ones are a problem.

Thank you, I have sent him a message previously (on facebook messenger but yet to receive a reply. I've seen his work and he's done a great job on the smaller gauge locomotives. But I don't know if he's done the larger ones, I think the plan was to update and try to breath new life into 3.1/2" and smaller gauge locos and railways.

Hi Bill,

The thinking is to machine down and build them up, so machining a disc of the correct thickness/dia for the balance weights then drill and bolt them with countersunk screws and loctite. I'll need three discs for all the balance weights and I'll use a Jig to spot the wheels with the holes same as the balance weights. I've seen it done on a simplex loco (I think it was) and worked well at a much reduced cost to the castings.

Jon

I have been studying the boiler of Minx, and there seems to be a few things that need to change to bring it upto current regulations.

If the boiler is built from 5" tube and an outer Firebox wrapper, the 1/2" joint peice is not sufficient for the butt joint, from my understanding any butt joint in a boiler should have a 1" wide peice of copper the same thickness or greater than the two peices it joints. Can someone confirm my ramblings?

Also as drawn there is only provision for one safety valve, and there should be two, incase one packs up while in steam. This is rather simple to change.

As mentioned above the fittings for the boiler should have bronze bushes soldered into the boiler instead of just plain tapped holes in the boiler.

Also the ashpan has a steel bracket screwed into the foundation ring, surely this can't be good for the strength of the boiler/foundation ring, and will also suffer fatigue over time. I think a square peice of steel fixed directly to the frames, to retain the back of the ashpan would be a better solution here.

Just a few observations of mine.

Edited By Jon Cameron on 16/05/2019 13:52:36

Edited By Jon Cameron on 16/05/2019 13:53:58

Thanks bazyle, I am discussing it with the boiler inspector in our club, but I wanted to see if there was anyone who had built it, and what adaptions they may have done. The drawings show a 1/2" wide peice 13SWG copper for the joint, however I'm thinking of making it easier for myself and doing the front plate (if its called that with an outward flange to go on the outside of the 5" barrel.