Tools needed for …… (boiler)

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Tools needed for …… (boiler)

This topic has 12 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 24 April 2015 at 14:53 by Martin Cottrell.

Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

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21 April 2015 at 14:39 #187244
Nick_G
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@nick_g
.

Thinking of building this **LINK** rascal to go with the James Coombes I have recently completed.

What tools will I need to acquire do so.?

I know I will need a decent torch so I will probably purchase one of the Sievert range. But which one.? And what size burners to go with it for this size of build.

Are there a special kind of drill for copper.? I ask this due to remembering my time as an electrician and it always being 'orrible' to drill.

Any other obvious and not so obvious things / tools that will make construction easier.?

Cheers-N-beers, Nick
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21 April 2015 at 14:39 #17685
Nick_G
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@nick_g
21 April 2015 at 14:49 #187245
Capstan Speaking
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@capstanspeaking95294
Well copper is exceedingly abrasive and will be hard on drills. For a lot of repetitive drilling, carbide might be a good choice. You'll need a green wheel to resharpen them though.
21 April 2015 at 17:40 #187262
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Get yourself a step drill or two, will do the holes easily and won't snatch too much as they tend to have near zero helix, HSS will be fine.

Edited By JasonB on 21/04/2015 18:26:31
21 April 2015 at 20:38 #187293
Nick_G
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@nick_g
.

Cheers.

Any advice on the size of nozzles for the Sievert.?

Nick
21 April 2015 at 20:52 #187298
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
I think the standard kist come with about 8KW 28mm which should do the job, I mostly use a 25mm one on my Bullfinch but not sure of its heat rating. 3 of the blocks and a sheet of board that CUP do will make a good little hearth.

Plastic container with lid to mix up your pickle, dry crystals from above is what I use.

Nice clean hammer or mallet if you are flanging your plates, don't want all the muck of your sparks Estwing getting engrained in the copper
21 April 2015 at 21:02 #187299
Nick_G
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@nick_g
.

Cheers Jason.

So would either of the 1st 2 on this page be ok then.? **LINK**

Nick
22 April 2015 at 06:57 #187320
Michael Gilligan
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@michaelgilligan61133
Posted by Nick_G on 21/04/2015 21:02:21:

So would either of the 1st 2 on this page be ok then.? **LINK**

.

Nick,

The Cyclone burners are fantastic, for their intended purpose [which is to wrap the flame around a pipe]: But you would need a conventional one as well, for the bigger joints.

MichaelG.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 22/04/2015 06:59:52
22 April 2015 at 07:20 #187322
Keith Hale
Participant
@keithhale68713
Hi Nick,

If you are going to Harrogate next month you can see the range of Sievert burners on the CuP Alloys stand. You will be able to discuss your requirements, see the burners lit and be able to make an informed decision.

For information on silver solders visit http://www.cupalloys.co.uk

Keith

Edited By CuP Alloys 1 on 22/04/2015 07:22:29

Edited By CuP Alloys 1 on 22/04/2015 07:25:40
22 April 2015 at 07:29 #187323
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
I'd go with the first one as it puts out more heat, the cyclone on the second will only do about 3kw but can be useful for getting into awkward spaces
22 April 2015 at 21:42 #187428
Nick_G
Participant
@nick_g
.

Thanks John,

Whats a good solder – flux combination for copper.?

Cheers, Nick
24 April 2015 at 10:12 #187574
Keith Hale
Participant
@keithhale68713
Hi Nick,

Probably the best approach is a two stage one.

Use a medium temperature alloy like 438 for the first joints. Follow up with low temperature 455 The latter joints will be made without fear of melting the first ones.

Both alloys can be used successfully with either EF or HT5 flux.

All materials readily available.

Keep your costs down by having small joint gaps (0.1 – 0.15mm) and joint length 3 – 4 x material thickness. Then use the thinnest rod practical to you.

Change subject

Cyclone burners as mentioned above are available up to 10kw

Keith

Edited By CuP Alloys 1 on 24/04/2015 10:15:18
24 April 2015 at 14:53 #187613
Martin Cottrell
Participant
@martincottrell21329
Hi Nick

I bought the GLR boiler kit a few years ago now & have found it a great little boiler. It was my first attempt at boiler making and found the exercise fairly straightforward following 3 fundamental pieces of advice:

1. Make sure everything is scrupulously clean.

2. Make sure all joints are close-fitting & well fluxed.

3. Don't be afraid to use plenty of heat.

I didn't need any special tools, I think I made a couple of hardwood formers to form the tube plate flanges and just used my standard drills to drill the tube holes & bush holes. I bought a 2lb bag of citric acid powder to mix in a plastic bucket of water for pickling and bought some thermalite blocks from B&Q to make up a brazing hearth. You will also need a stout pair of gauntlet type leather gloves (B&Q gardening aisle!) as things do get surprisingly hot!

Regarding heating, I bought a Sievert 2942 burner with an 8" extension tube to help keep hands away from the inferno and found that this brought everything up to temperature very quickly. As to firing the boiler itself, I went for the ceramic gas burner as this had the advantages of not having to form and construct the fire hole and also being able to fire the boiler indoors. Although quite expensive I also purchased the complete fittings kit & the lagging kit from GLR which cosmetically makes a very tidy job of the completed boiler.

Here is a video of my completed boiler on its first test run!

Regards Martin.

Edited By Martin Cottrell on 24/04/2015 15:28:24
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