Looking at the parts book I guess you are referring to the gear at the dial end made on the part that also carries socket that the sliding section of the screw fits into. This gear is driven from the apron to provide power cross-feed.
When using the taper turning attachment the cross slide is moved via the, now stationary, nut and screw whilst the dial and power feed gear stay fixed in the apron. The sliding section allows the screw to effectively change length thus accommodating any variation. Many lathes don't have a such a sliding section so the dial and handle assembly has to be released from the screw to let things move. Alternatively the taper turning attachment can be made to connect directly to the cross slide so the feed nut has to be similarly disconnected to let the slide move independently of the screw. High end toolroom lathes and the like sometimes have a second cross slide underneath the normal one to which the taper turning unit can be connected rendering its operation completely independent of the normal cross slide. very effective but expensive.
As taper turning units are often rarely used and even less likely to be operated over their full travel crud and stuff can build up in the end of the socket restricting the range of travel. A nasty surprise if discovered near the end of an accurate and hard to set up job. If you are doing a retrofit best to clean up and verify full travel before installation. Otherwise something to add to the service schedule. On the 10 year list I think. I found that one out the hard way with my SouthBend Heavy 10. Even worse in that case as the keyway hadn't been fully machined needing some careful file work to get it to full length and dead on size. Job was a do-over too.
Its important to get the gibs and sides set-up really nicely for smooth shake-free and easy movement. Uneven drag can easily upset the taper you are making. Another thing I learned from that SouthBend. Ended up taking the whole unit off and doing a very careful set-up job on the bench. Impossible to see and feel what was going on well enough to get it just so whilst leaning over the machine. Probably fine to do it on the lathe if you have rear access but who in the ME world has that much room. Worth the effort as good Morse tapers and the like could be made with no fiddling beyond the usual extra care needed to set-up.
Clive.