Machining Ceramic material

[Joseph Noci 1Participant @josephnoci1]

I wish to enlarge the hole in this ceramic nozzle – it is actually a nozzle for a sand blasting machine, but going to be used for something else, unrelated. The nozzle is 35mm long, 15mm OD, with a 5mm through hole. I would like to enlarge the hole to at least 10mm. Does anyone know of a suitable approach?

I have tried to find larger nozzles, etc – none to be found.

The nozzle is the same material as the nozzles on TIG torches it would seem.

I also looked at all the TIG torch nozzle types and sizes – problem is that they all have 'torch' style mounts, with screw threads, etc – making it awkward to pressgang into service the way I am trying to do!

Thanks…

Joe

[Joseph Noci 1Participant @josephnoci1]

How to enlarge a hole in a ceramic nozzle

[Paul BarterParticipant @paulbarter66156]

How about the cheap hollow diamond drills sold to drill ceramic tiles. These are readily available in various diameters from tile suppliers or the sheds, be prepared to queue!

I hope this helps
Paul

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Given the likely nature of the material, I think machining would almost certainly require diamond tools

[quote]

Ceramic nozzles for blasting, spraying and casting
Blast Noozles Spray Noozles
Welding and Fine Jet Noozles
Break Rings and Casting Nozzles

Ceramic material composition:
· 95%–99.99% Alumina (Al2O3) · Zirconia(ZrO2) · Boron Carbide · Silicon Carbide…

[/quote]

It would be worth browsing what is available that might better approximate what you want:: **LINK**

http://www.cerampart.com/product/Ceramic_nozzle

MichaelG.

.

Edit: Paul’s suggestion is probably the most practical approach to machining

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 03/06/2020 08:04:32

[jimmy bParticipant @jimmyb]

Michael is spot on.

I spent a couple of months, 20 odd years ago, boring out some ceramic gears (made with under size bores).

Diamond inserts were the only thing that worked.

Jim

[Joseph Noci 1Participant @josephnoci1]

Thanks very much chaps! Paul, your idea is excellent and seems the best option! I did find another process, but that involved raising the material temp to almost white hot, and then boring out…I think not..

Thanks again.

Regards

Joe

[SamsarandaParticipant @samsaranda]

Arceurotrade used to sell diamond core drills, not sure if they are still available, they perform really well and are not expensive.
Dave W

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

I remember years ago using a machinable ceramic material for a "particular" project. Whilst "green" it was machinable but then had to be fired to achieve full hard ceramic state. No idea now what it was called.

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

Here is a start.

https://www.precision-ceramics.co.uk/green-machining/

[Andrew TinsleyParticipant @andrewtinsley63637]

Could you use pyrophillite, which is easy to machine. Once made, the item if fired at high temperature and becomes a hard ceramic?

I can't remember the firing temperature, but google pyrophillite and you should get all the necessary data. I have used this material in the past and it is excellent. I suspect that sand blast nozzles are made from this material. The ones I have used have a pink colour typical of pyrophillite.

Andrew.

[Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762]

Eternal Tools may be worth a look.

**LINK**

regards Martin

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

Diamond tipped drill bits for cutting tiles, glass, etc are cheap on ebay and available in lots of sizes.

Paul

[Nick Clarke 3Participant @nickclarke3]

You may find a diamond drill exerts an outward force as it goes down the nozzle and looking at your picture the nozzle with a 10mm bore will have walls only 2-3mm thick so breaking it may be an issue.

Should that be the case a diamond burr in a Dremel or similar, while it would take a very long time, might prevent breakage.

Supporting each part with a close fitting metal tubes or bushes (I reckon you would need a stepped one for one end and the thicker part and another for the thinner end) might preserve the nozzle while you work on it.

[jimmy bParticipant @jimmyb]

Deleted 

Edited By jimmy b on 03/06/2020 11:24:52

[jimmy bParticipant @jimmyb]

Nick makes a good point. Some of the gears I had to bore out, were only half inch thick. We had bore half way and turn the part around, as boring through just burst the gear!

Jim

[David JuppParticipant @davidjupp51506]

There are ceramics available which can be machined with standard metalworking tools – another possible option.

http://www.ceramic-substrates.co.uk/machinable-ceramics/

Edited By David Jupp on 03/06/2020 11:35:31

[Brian OldfordParticipant @brianoldford70365]

Is this for one of those hush hush projects that if he told us what is was he'd have to kill us?

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

They only seem to be freely available in up to 7mm bore. That size would be a better starting dimension to use a diamond burr to enlarge.

[Paul BarterParticipant @paulbarter66156]

Hi Joseph, Just to clarify, the drills I suggested are hollow steel tubes of the approximate desired hole diameter,with diamond grit embedded in the cutting end,
they grind their way through, thus cutting force is very low and no radial pressure as either the cutting action of a twist drill. However no self extraction of grinding debris, so peck and squirt with water for cooling and debris flushing is the way to go.
You could possibly fit the item in a lathe Chuck and drill from the tail stock, as the forces involved are low, you can use a gentle grip in the chuck, but protect your lathe bed from the water and grit!

regards Paul

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