Colchester Bantam Lathe

[Richard Masters 1Participant @richardmasters1]

Fixed travel stop

[Richard Masters 1Participant @richardmasters1]

I have a travel stop that can be clamped to the bed.

If I use the lathe with power feed on, does the half nut automatically disengage when the saddle come up to the stop? Or should I only use the lathe under manual feed when coming up to the stop?

[chris stephensParticipant @chrisstephens63393]

Hi Richard,

If yours is like mine, the feed cuts out when it encounters the stop, but NOT repeat NOT when screw cutting. The stop is a very useful accessory, I use mine regularly.

If you haven’t used yours yet do a test run first, in case someone in the past messed with the release mechanism.

A cross slide stop is a useful feature, especially when screw cutting, but it can get in the way on other occasions.

christephens

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

Hi Richard

You do not say which lathe you have. Most lathes used by Model Engineers do not have the facility for half nuts to automatically disengage. These features are generally only found on the more expensive or larger lathes. If your lathe is so fitted then as Chris sugests try it first. Do not clamp the stop to tightly to the bed so that if the worst happens you do not damage the lathe. Having read the header I see that it is a Bantam.

Edited By Dusty on 21/02/2011 09:34:39

[Chris GunnParticipant @chrisgunn36534]

My Bantam is the same, and the stop is indeed very handy. My tip would be to ensure the 2 clamp screws are both tightened securely, otherwise it may slip. When I tighten mine, first then second screw, the first can always be tightened a little more, as the “C” section clamp must spring a touch after the second screw has been tightened, loosening the first screw a touch as well. Just get in a routine of doing a double tighten of everything, and you should be OK. If you are doing a job with a long feed, you can walk away and do something else, while keeping an ear and an eye on the lathe, until you hear the clunk to let you know the feed has tripped. I am sure you will be happy with the Bantam, it is far superior in lot of ways to many lathes available to the model maker.

Chris Gunn

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

Hi Chris

I was not advocating that the stop should not be tightened properly when in normal use. Just for the trial run. Once Richard is happy with the operation then the stop as you say should be clamped up firmly.

[Martin CooperParticipant @martincooper52042]

Hi All

 

My Bantam saddle stop has single clamp bolt. I find that on fine feeds, the saddle just tends to push the stop along the bed – even with it clamped up really tight. I’ve read about dismantling the apron and adjusting the mechanism inside – but does anyone have any other tips here?

 

Thanks

 

Martin

 

 

 

 

 

[Richard Masters 1Participant @richardmasters1]

Thank you all for your prompt replies.

My stop has a single grub screw to clamp it to the lathe bed.

I will do as you suggest. ie lightly clamp and see what happens when the sadle meets the stop under power feed. I don’t have time tonight to get to my workshop, nor tomorrow, but should have time on wednesday.

I will let you know what happens.

 

[Chris GunnParticipant @chrisgunn36534]

Dusty, I was not referring to your comment at all, which makes complete sense for the initial test, it was just a general bit of advice, which now seems pertinent after reading the later posts. My stop is the genuine Colchester article, and has 2 Allen cap screws, not grub screws holding it to the bed. The cap screws may not be original, but they allow the use of a bigger Allen key than the corresponding grub screws would. If I am sloppy about tightening it, then one soon knows about it when the chuck jaws destroy the tip of the tool. I always have a test run, with the tool well away from harm, before I get cracking. I wonder if the stops mentioned above are genuine Colchester parts, and why the design has only one locking screw?

Chris Gunn

[chris stephensParticipant @chrisstephens63393]

Hi Guys,

Before we start to worry too much about whether parts are genuine or not, my saddle stop (genuine Colchester) has one Allen headed cap screw to draw a brass block into tight contact with the underside of the lathe bed.

The cross slide stop, as illustrated in my handbook, has two screw to hold it to the cross slide, and also two screws to hold the other part to the saddle.?

chriStephens

[dan quirkeParticipant @danquirke33045]

Hi,

I have a “Bantam” mk 1 800 rpm.I have just modified the speed range from 0 to 2000 rpm,using an inverter with potentiometer control.It works very well with the facillity to reverse and jog the spindle with variable speed ranges to suit the situation.Screw cutting is now completely under control,into blind holes ect.I can pass on information about the pro’s and con’s to anyone interested.I have a question:The camlock mechanism on spindle nose which locates chucks ect,on my machine ,has three location pins,which are locked onto spindle with cams which are turned to lock.These rotary cams are located with a location pin,spring and screw.These items retain the cam in position.I have lost these items and wish to replace.Can anyone help?

[Trevor WrightParticipant @trevorwright62541]

Dan, are you looking for the pins or the internal mechanism? the pins can be bought new from RDG tools

I am looking for a 127 tooth change gear for my mk1 bantam, can anybody point me to a supplier.?

Failing that, what gear form are the gears? I can buy a standard gear and fit a splined inner.

[dan quirkeParticipant @danquirke33045]

Hi,

In answer to your qestions:the gear form is 16DP.You can contact Kevin@millhillsupplies.com

01787-472236 .I think he has one in stock,or,maybe can have one manufactured.I can give you

o/d of gear and spline detatails if you require

[Neil GreenawayParticipant @neilgreenaway71611]

There was an article in a recent MEW about rebuilding and adjusting the saddle trip mechanism on a colchester lathe (cant remember if it was a student or a bantam) – might be worth a look.

[YoramParticipant @yoram]

Hi All.

I just bought a colchester bantam and looking for parts catalogue or manuel which will anable me to start servicing ang fixing it, as it is in rather neglected state.

I could not find it in the net. would be very thankfull for any help. Thank You..

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Hi Yoram

Did you get a catalog and manual yet? If not I can send you a link to them on my Google Drive.

Let me know if I can help.

Murray

[YoramParticipant @yoram]

Hi Murray. Thank you very much . I had recieved pages from the manual by the kind Mr. John Connagham, but not the manual as a whole. There is a possibility that som information is missing, I would be most thankfull for a link. my mail is yb269ali@gmail.com Thankfully Yours Yoram Binur

[Sandy WinstanleyParticipant @sandywinstanley54466]

Hi, everybody. New kid on the block. Talking of saddle stops-I am looking to make one for my Bantam mk 1 as they seem to be about as common as hen's teeth but could do with the internal profile. Dimensions I can work out from that. Would anybody who has one be so kind as to park it on a sheet of paper and draw round it? It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Sandy

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

Did you get a catalog and manual yet? If not I can send you a link to them on my Google Drive

Bear in mind that anything you ever upload to Google Drive, also basically belongs to them and backup copies on Google servers will remain even after you delete your files

[Google has broad rights to reproduce, use, and create derivative works from content stored on the Google Drive, via a license from its users. This license is perpetual even after the user removes the material.]

[FMESParticipant @fmes]

Posted by Richard Masters 1 on 20/02/2011 21:23:50:

I have a travel stop that can be clamped to the bed.

If I use the lathe with power feed on, does the half nut automatically disengage when the saddle come up to the stop? Or should I only use the lathe under manual feed when coming up to the stop?

Richard, if memory serves the feed engaging lever on the Bantam / Student Lathes has a tension adjuster incorporated.

If you unscrew it the amount of force required to enable the feed to disengage when hitting the stop reduces.

Normally it was screwed in enough to overcome feed friction plus about half a turn.

Lofty

[FMESParticipant @fmes]

Posted by Trevor Wright on 21/02/2012 13:05:34:

Dan, are you looking for the pins or the internal mechanism? the pins can be bought new from RDG tools

I am looking for a 127 tooth change gear for my mk1 bantam, can anybody point me to a supplier.?

Failing that, what gear form are the gears? I can buy a standard gear and fit a splined inner.

Trevor, did you find a change wheel? I have some odd ones lurking in the workshop that were stripped off a Bantam or Student when they were disposed of (thought they might come in handy)

If you still need I can check for a 127.

Lofty

[Trevor WrightParticipant @trevorwright62541]

Lofty,

Found one at the bottom of a box of bits that I thought were scrap that came with the machine, the size threw me as it was a lot bigger than I expected, thanks for the offer.

The end stop I use all the time but not on power feed – perhaps it will trip as the later Colchesters do – but don't want to chance the stop slipping as it only has the single bolt. I use it to gauge lengths as the handwheel has no dial, set stop and use the cross-slide at 90°

Sandy, will look at mine tonight and post some sizes tomorrow.

As an aside, the Bantam is the best piece of kit I have ever bought, £450 off ebay, single phase motor and soft starter already fitted. Had to travel to Frazerburgh to collect though – 1000miles and £300 in diesel but was worth every penny. Shame my brand new Clarke mill/drill is such a nail in comparison.

Trevor

[FalcoParticipant @falco]

Sandy, if and when you get fixed up with a bed-stop and if you want to adjust the clutch to trip reliably I may be able to help with the relevant info.

I'm using a home made stop and yes it needs to be tight if the bedways are lubricated. I'd be keen to see dimensions of the Colchester stop.

Trevor, I have to agree on the Bantam. Probably the ideal smaller, rock-solid lathe for the home workshop.

John

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

This is the carriage stop that came with my Bantam. No idea of the parentage but it likes to be nipped up tight. I fitted the keyway and replaced the bottom piece so that it sat better on the ways. It's loose here, so not sitting square but you can see the idea. I've never found the micrometer dial worth bothering with. Instead I usually finesse the position using the top slide.

As ever, the picture is sideways as a testament to Windows 8 which knows better than me which way to orientate the photo.

And here's my cross slide stop. It is pretty basic and only works for feed direction away from you due to impatience when I made it but it can be pretty handy when facing with power feed. There are 3 tapped holes which allow it to be fitted in 2 positions, giving me all the adjustment required in combination with the threaded stop bar. The transverse and longitudinal power feeds will trip out in both directions against any firm stop.

Murray

Edited By Muzzer on 30/05/2014 04:47:01

[Trevor WrightParticipant @trevorwright62541]

Sandy,

some images of my stop which I believe is original are posted in my albums under Bantam carriage stop. What looks quite simple on the outside is a lot more complicated when you get to look inside….

If you still want dimensions then I will post some Monday – the drawing package on my pc is rubbish so will need to use Solidworks on works pc.

Trevor

PS tried to load images on this page but the text and photos kept getting mixed up.

[Author]

Posts