Will electrical ‘multicore ‘solder adhere to brass ?

Advert

New Replies

Report Bug

Help/FAQs

Will electrical ‘multicore ‘solder adhere to brass ?

This topic has 8 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 24 July 2012 at 21:36 by John Haine.

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

Author

Posts
22 July 2012 at 21:53 #94975
Chris machin
Participant
@chrismachin
Hi All,currently making one of Elmers engines (no 24 beam engine) which calls for a couple of 1mm drilled holes to be 'plugged'. I have some silver solder and the correct flux but am unable to reach the neccecary temperature to use the solder due to incorrect torch and an almost empty gas bottle. I'm wondering if for this simple job I could plug the holes with the much lower temperature electricians solder ? Is this possible and will it 'stick' to the brass ?

Any help appreciated

Chris.
Advert

22 July 2012 at 21:53 #6258
Chris machin
Participant
@chrismachin
22 July 2012 at 22:29 #94977
Maurice Cox 1
Participant
@mauricecox1
Hi Chris, yes multicore solder takes on brass very well, particularly if you apply a little flux from a tin first, to help the resin core. Make surethat the metal is free from gease.If you are heating with a torch, apply the heat away from the join you are making. Let it heat by conduction, to avoid burning the flux. I think I would favour tapping the holes a suitable size, and screwing in a threaded piece of brass rod. Just thread the end of the rod, so that the thread is tapered, apply a drop of "Locktite" or similar, screw the rod firmly into the hole(s), cut off and file flush. If you do not care for chemical sealants, you could lightly countersing the tapped holes, screw in the two pieces of threaded brass rod, then run some soft solder roud the counter sink.

I hope this is some help

Regards Maurice
23 July 2012 at 00:30 #94979
Terryd
Participant
@terryd72465
Hi Chris,

Brass is used extensively in electrical and plumbing components and solders well with 'soft' solder. It doesn't 'stick' to brass but forms an alloy at the interface between components. It is often overlooked in Model engineering but can provide a chap and simple alternative technique to the use of adhesives such as Loctite for permanent joints and is a useful technique to learn. I use both a 150 Watt Weller iron and a small torch such as a pencil torch or plumbers torch when soft soldering small components, Keep away from silver solderimng areas though as contamination can occur

In your engine, Plug the holes with a bit of rod with a litlle clearance, soft solder it in position using a suitable heat source and then clean and polish as usuall. The solder will be almost invisible if done correctly. You should use an active acid flux. Such Flux can be nade at home using zinc dissolved in hydrochloric acid until no more will dissolve (killed spirits – acid neutralised – aka Bakers Fluid). Hydrochloric acid is sold as brick or patio cleaning acid and is not dangerous if normal acid handling precautions are followed.

Regards

Terry
23 July 2012 at 20:25 #95005
Sub Mandrel
Participant
@submandrel
Hi Chris,

I've found that it's hard to keep the temperature low enough for rosin cored solder to work really well. For my shunter after getting advice here I used plumbers solder and Fry's powerflow flux for all the platework using a 'cook's blowtorch'. For small parts I now use the Fry's powerflow, by dipping the end of some rosin cored solder in it. This will reliably join clean steel as well as brass.

As a cream the powerflowis similar to, but friendlier than killed spirits, but you MUST clean it off or steel will rust and brass/copper will develop verdigris (don't ask how I know). Also don't let it anywhere near electrical wires!

Neil
23 July 2012 at 21:37 #95012
Terryd
Participant
@terryd72465
Hi,

If you are going to use propietary fluxes Laco is a good one. Will clean the metal as you solder. But again, a good scrub afterwards is essential.

Terry
24 July 2012 at 10:35 #95025
Jim Guthrie
Participant
@jimguthrie82658
Posted by Terryd on 23/07/2012 21:37:37:

If you are going to use propietary fluxes Laco is a good one. Will clean the metal as you solder. But again, a good scrub afterwards is essential.

I have used Templers Telux flux on brass, nickel silver and steel for the past few years and there are no bad after effects of oxidisation. You do need to wash off the work if you are going to paint it, but can leave it if no further treatment is required.

http://www.gwneale.co.uk/telux.html

Jim

Edited By Jim Guthrie on 24/07/2012 10:35:56

Edited By Jim Guthrie on 24/07/2012 10:37:16
24 July 2012 at 11:40 #95028
Joseph Ramon
Participant
@josephramon28170
Wow – Fry's Powerflow is nasty stuff contains raw HCl

**LINK**

Telux is a bit less nasty, ZnCL and NH3Cl:

LINK to telux datasheet

Joey
24 July 2012 at 21:36 #95059
John Haine
Participant
@johnhaine32865
I used to make model plane fuel tanks from brass shim, cut with scissors, soldered using Ersin Multicore electronics solder, no problem at all. Probably I polished the brass with a bit of brillo and washed it clean if it wasn't bright – this was a long time ago (getting on for 50 years I realise with a shudder). No need for any additional flux. Modern electronics solder is lead-free, needs a rather higher temperature, I find that it is also fine for soldering for example brass and steel together using some white paste non-acid plumbing flux bought from a local plumbers supplier.
Author

Posts