Slitting saw runout

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Slitting saw runout

This topic has 14 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 30 October 2011 at 09:27 by DAVID POWELL 4.

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23 October 2011 at 19:43 #76728
RJKflyer
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@rjkflyer
All my slitting saws have horrid runout – ‘ching ching ching’.

I’ve bought (reasonably) cheap one and really good ones. They’re all marginally sloppy on the (good quality) arbor.

I’ve read comprehensively on this across the web, and it appears that this is the norm! Seen the various threads here too.

Having said all this, they seem to cut absolutely fine: the only compromise seems to be running slight faster (ca. 300 rpm for a 2.5″ saw) than ideal to avoid it ‘snatching’. Whole thing was cool to touch after a 15mm cut in mild steel, and taking 0.5mm cut per pass.

Just wondered if anyone had found a source of slitting saws that were cut true?
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23 October 2011 at 19:43 #5717
RJKflyer
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@rjkflyer
23 October 2011 at 19:51 #76729
wheeltapper
Participant
@wheeltapper
short answer…………..no.

some are worse than others. I’ve never had a true running one.

I just run mine faster so the chingy bit comes round more often. and just hope that bit will wear away so the rest of it gets a look in.

Roy
23 October 2011 at 20:34 #76730
Peter Hall
Participant
@peterhall61789
Welcome to the club. All mine were horrible too, but were very substantially better when I switched from (cheap) milling chuck to (even cheaper) ER collet chuck to hold the arbor. I’m using the tiny Sieg X1 mill and I bought my collets and collet chuck direct from CTC tools in Hong Kong. Worth a look if you are on a tight budget.

HTH

Peter
23 October 2011 at 20:56 #76731
Tony Pratt 1
Participant
@tonypratt1
I would hazard a guess that any old stock ‘Made in England’ cutters you can get hold of will run true.

Tony
23 October 2011 at 21:08 #76733
JohnF
Participant
@johnf59703
Hi everyone is correct, I’ve been cutting metal for over 50 years and its always been the same but some are better than others.

John
23 October 2011 at 21:40 #76736
macmarch
Participant
@macmarch
When I was an apprentice we used to have this problem. Given that you have sufficient diameter on the saw a good ‘cure’ is to fit cheek plates as you do on grinding wheels.
23 October 2011 at 21:51 #76737
Bogstandard
Participant
@bogstandard
Tony,

I use ‘English’ slitting saws and I can truly say, they are the same from new.

The only ones that don’t do it are the small solid carbide ones I have, but I think they may be ground by a different method as they are a lot more expensive.

You might find that ones with fewer teeth have less runout, purely because the grinding wheel doesn’t wear out of true as much as when it is grinding a larger number of teeth. I suspect they only true the wheel up after doing the whole circumference of teeth, that is what I do when resharpening mine, so the first ones ground will be shorter than the last ones because the wheel has lost a bit of it’s ‘meat’ by the time it gets to the last tooth.

It doesn’t really matter anyway, it you need to slit to a certain depth, just take your start point from when the first tooth starts to touch.

John
23 October 2011 at 22:27 #76740
Clive Hartland
Participant
@clivehartland94829
Surely centricity is a function of the center hole of the saw. Coupled with any error from the arbor and morse tapers or other mounts .

In production and when sharpened before sale they pick up eccentricity.

Are they checked at all?

I have had saws that were eccentric from new, expensive saws, but I have also had others that were fine.

Perhaps the saws should be sharpened on the arbor they run in.

Thicker saws do not give as much trouble but take more power to cut with and then chatter.

Clive
29 October 2011 at 15:46 #77023
DAVID POWELL 4
Participant
@davidpowell4
Anyone any idea how fast a slitting saw should run. Searched all the books but nothing. Not even the people selling them know. Only help was from an ole timer at the Midlands show who said ‘run em slow’

Dave
29 October 2011 at 16:19 #77026
Tony Pratt 1
Participant
@tonypratt1
It depends on you saw diameter, but 50 rpm would be a good starting point for the 3″-4″ sizes ones. There is a theroetical speed for all cutters depending on cutter material and diameter plus material to be machined.

Tony
29 October 2011 at 19:01 #77032
Martin W
Participant
@martinw
David

Try looking at this link Slitting Saws on page 13 of the pdf document there are details of cutting speeds for hss slitting saws, diameter v material etc. Should be right as this company supplies/manufactures the items.

Cheers

Martin
29 October 2011 at 23:18 #77043
DMB
Participant
@dmb
Hi all,

Have looked at the American site, Martindale.com and on page 9, they show piccie of support washers, hardened, precision ground. Bottom of page 13 they say that in absence of a drive key, the support washers do the driving. The washers are similar to those used for grinding wheels, but I suggest that no -one tries to use these on grinding wheels – they are not identical. Hope above explains how the makers intend use of their products.

John
30 October 2011 at 01:40 #77045
Chris Trice
Participant
@christrice43267
Since slitting saws are usually made from HSS, I use the same rpm as if a HSS lathe tool was cutting the same material at the same diameter as the slitting saw. In other words, if you’re cutting mild steel with a 3″ slitting saw, use the same speed as cutting 3″ diameter piece of mild steel in the lathe with a HSS tool. Lots of cutting fluid helps too.
30 October 2011 at 09:27 #77049
DAVID POWELL 4
Participant
@davidpowell4
Thanks everyone who responded to my query on running speeds of slitting saws. Now I know after about 2 years of searching. Using this site it took less than 24 hours.. Thanks again

Dave
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