Tim,

There is a locking screw after the adjusting screw and you did it up tight, so the adjustment is not vibrating loose?

Tim, this is a Mark 1 Super Seven.

I had a similar problem with clutch adjustment and if the 'lock' grub screw doesn't help fix it then there is a "push-rod" below that might be broken or chipped at the bottom (which means that you cannot get the full range of clutch adjustment). From memory, this is a fairly simple cylinder that was not difficult to replace with a newly made one (you cannot buy Mk1 clutch spares). My Mk1 clutch had a bit of a rattle, which was a clue to the presence of the broken bit inside.

The actual clutch adjustment can be quite fiddly to get just right and it's worth taking your time to get it spot on. I struggled at first with either a very tight clutch (almost impossible to move) and one that slipped badly. I dismantled my clutch and could not see any real (major) wear and eventually managed to get it set "just right" but it did take more than one or two attempts. Very much worth the effort though!

Regards,

IanT

I have an ml7 and i just use the belt tensioner lever as a clutch, its dirty but works for me

Tom,

The second screw to act as locknut for the adjusting screw was standard practice and as it came from the factory, as shown in the operating handbook.

The adjusting screw had a slotted end, while the locking screw was a socket hexagon. On top of these was a threaded plug to cover the hole.

Phil

Just to clarify – I don't oil my clutch =)

I mean don't over oil the bearing through the nipple in the pulley or the shaft boss through its nipple. When I got the lathe originally it was wet with clean oil, everything was covered and the clutch slipped all the time and had glazed over. I freshened up the clutch and the inside of the pulley with some emery cloth and after an initial bedding in, it has been fine since although does now need more attention, it starts to slip under moderate-heavy load – probably part and parcel of the old clutch mechanism, hence why it was one of the first things to change after just 6/7 years.

If I can't adjust it out, before I give up or try to replace the whole lot I seem to think the pulley might be softer than the clutch ring so I would look to machining it out and press fitting an insert in to it and machining it back to fit the worn clutch insert – how I would do that accurately with just the vertical mill would be the challenge. I do feel like I'm already expanding the clutch ring a long way before it starts to grab anything – I certainly don't want to over stress it and snap it.

Edited By Russ B on 19/09/2014 12:46:26

The normal recommendation is to get a hand book. Put Clutch in the search window [Keyword] and you'll get about 2 pages of different threads on mainly Myford clutches.

Ian S C

Sorry I haven't read all previous posts. I have the same S7 and my clutch has the same issue neededing adjusting every 10 minutes when I first got it. I stripped and cleaned the whole thing out and its been fine since. Old oil, mixed with whatever the clutch is made from had turned in to grinding paste – you'll want to get this out if you haven't already. And don't over oil the end bush or bearings on that end of the shaft/clutch assembly as it will fling out in to the clutch friction area.

The actuating shaft that goes down the spindle with the ramp that lifts wedge up into the clutch ring will need replacing on my machine as the ramp has rutted and makes it stiff with a lump in it right where it engages – it's not nice.

For now, when I adjust it, I take out the cover screw, lock screw and adjusting screw and clean out oil from the threads as well as possible if any exists and apply thread lock, I adjust the clutch so it's slightly loose and then tightening the locking screw down against the adjusting screw (with the clutch lever engaged in drive mode) tightening the adjustment up that extra bit.

I've done hours and hours of work and it doesn't need adjustment yet.

I hope this helps.