Richard

Check the overload hasn't tripped. Isolate power and in the table feed control unit you will see the red re-set button, just press firmly to reset in case it had tripped, if you hear a distinct click then that will be reset.

Worth a try before ripping out the wiring !!!!!!

Emgee

Richard, there are some schematics for the 6F and 8F power feeds in the Bridgeport manual published by Hardinge. It's ~4.3MB, I can't remember where I d/l it from, but it's not hard to find on the web. It might be named BP_Mill_Series1_Manual.pdf. See pages 5-10 to 5-17. I also have a hard copy of a sheet that has a general arrangement / interconnection of the main machine control box (model WD 154/D) that matches my Bridgeport, and that shows a very simple interconnection diagram for the motor, microswitches, and speed pot. I'll try to copy it (it's not a very good print) and post it in my album. Might take a couple of hours…

Roger

Edit. Pages 5-10 or 5-12 of the Hardinge manual may be essentially the same as the layout in my hard copy, and have the benefit of colour coding of the wires.

Edited By Roger Head on 08/12/2015 02:07:19

To Richard above, I have a circuit diagram and list of components of the control board and will send you a copy. Please send me a pm with your home address. and I'll pop it in the post. I had a very old copy of the circuit diagram and some one here redrew it, made a good job of it ,now things are much clearer. The motor is a 110 volt DC shunt wound, I've tested the motor circuit for a friend who owns a Bridgeport Mill using a 110 volt site transformer and a bridge rectifier separately from the speed board , just to verify that it was the board and not the motor. Also have you checked the speed potentiometer, they get a lot of use and wear. Its a wire wound one obtainable from RS or Farnel. John

I have had problems when at work that turned out to be a sticky rapid traverse button. Worth a look ? I am getting tempted to remove the traverse set up from my Bridgeport and replace it with a 240v version because I do not know how to wire it up now the machine is running on a VFD so I only have motor control.

Its only the control circuit which is 110 volt NOT the entire machine. So when you went for the VFD you weren't wasting your money.John

Clive, I have had a look in the cabinet and you are correct. It is at present wired on 0-440.

As the motor is now wired directly to the VFD is it really as simple as feeding 220/240 volt supply to the transformer ? If so is it sensitive to live and neutral, I would connect the earth to one of the existing earth points. As you can see I am not happy working on more than spurring off a socket to add another. Chris.

Clive, thanks for the response. I will try that out, I only require the 110 volt output for the traverse and I will disconect the 50 volt lighting as well now I run 240 volt machine light.Chris.

Chris

Oh bovver. Boards are pretty tough so should be OK. When I first got mine it did the run for a moment then smoke thing. Motor turned out to be so jammed up with old carbon that it would barely turn with a spanner and brushes in just about reach commutator state.

Have you got the Erskine checks document off the Yahoo group files? If you haven't motor field resistance should be 500 ohms and armature resistance about 100 ohms. Its important that there are no shorts to earth. Taking either connector 8 or 9 on the board to earth is pretty much the only instant board killer. Most fails are simple component age out. Any other overloads will take out a fuse or pop the current limit device first unless an output end component is close to failure due to old age or other reasons. If the current limit has popped push the red button down again. May need a twist too. I don't exactly know procedure because there are no instructions in any document I've seen and its never happened to me.

Unless you are very sure that all is good its probably a good idea to pull the external connection strip from the board and verify that there are no shorts to earth on any pin with the machine and motor sir all wired up. Check number 1 on the Erskine document and they should know. If yours is a Quinton Crane built controller the actual circuit is a little different to the Erskine one but all the data appears to be the same. Far as I can see some of the figures are direct copy.

If the motor, brushes and commutator are good the naked motor should turn slowly on 12 volts or so DC. May need a helping twist to start. Mine spun OK off the high range on my "home upgraded" car battery charger which pumps out 6 amps at 15V on top range. Case says Winfield, a cheapy got long ago from Woolworths, but these days its about as original as a silhouette class dragster!

Clive.

OK, found one at the back of our manual.