Hi all,
Thanks for all your advice, and sorry for the slow response. All responses are valid points! Parovoz’s point is fine and the countersinking will indeed take up any slack, but in my case the slack is mostly in the gunmetal casting which is not countersunk. And yes, my hornblocks are a pretty tight fit in the frames and actually need tapping in with a soft mallet.
Actually, I am fairly low on the rivets which are close to 3/32″ (others of that nominal size are actually a thou or so smaller) and don’t want to pay the post on new ones especially if they are not quite the same as the ones I’ve got. So rather than do the experimenting as suggested or just risking it (and before I saw the last three posts from Parvaroz, Malcolm and Robert), I machined sleeves perhaps 4 or 5 thou thick, large enough to be snug fits in the oversized holes but with a reamed hole to take the rivet shanks, and silver soldered them to two of the slightly undersize rivets. After cleaning-up this effectively makes rivets with a stepped shank, with the diameter near the head being oversize as required. I reckon that only the lowest two rivets are needed like this as only those two holes are 7-12 thou too large. I think the others are less critical anyway (they hold the middle and top of the hornblock which are less likely to move anyway and bear much less of the bending moment on the frames) and the slack is only a few thou so I’m hoping the slack will take up when I form the countersinks. The slightly undersize shanks are I think unimportant because, as Parvaroz says, the countersinks will take up any slack. Good point about making the blanks a bit longer than normal.
This morning my wife and I riveted a “normal” hornblock in as I’m fairly rusty on riveting (went OK but the blanks were a bit long so tended to buckle rather than squash, and will need more filing to get them flush), but after doing one more “normal” one for practice I’ll see how I get on with the one I messed up!
Thanks again all
Arthur