What did you do Today 2018

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What did you do Today 2018

Home Forums The Tea Room What did you do Today 2018

Viewing 25 posts - 1,651 through 1,675 (of 1,832 total)
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  • #379641
    Mike Poole
    Participant
      @mikepoole82104

      Definitely a hint of Cyberman there.

      Mike

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      #379643
      V8Eng
      Participant
        @v8eng

        Be even better when it gets the nose job done.devil

        Edited By V8Eng on 07/11/2018 19:55:59

        #379644
        John Hinkley
        Participant
          @johnhinkley26699

          Not quite today; the last couple of days, actually. "Playing" – as my wife calls it – with Alibre Atom3D. Unwilling to wait for the next instalment, I've continued with the engine design that I've been mulling over for a while. I've decided to re-do the crank with scalloped webs instead of circular ones, but later on. In the meantime I've tried my hand at the cylinder block. It will be a wet-liner, 4-cylinder job with a swept volume of 123cc. I don't know if I'm going about it the right way, but I've built the block up (down, really ) from the cylinder head face in slices, which are then individually sculpted with cut-outsetc, before the next layer is added. Many mistakes and re-tries later, this is what I've go to show for it:

          Cylinder block

          I don't know where the red lines are from, maybe they are boundary lines. ( I'm too wrapped up to read the manual at the moment! ) David Jupp has given me a link to some videos, so I'll have a look at them soon.

          It's not the prettiest engine I'd have to agree, but, hey, even Cosworth had to start somewhere!

          John

          Edited to remove smiley face.

          Edited By John Hinkley on 07/11/2018 19:58:23

          #379650
          Joseph Noci 1
          Participant
            @josephnoci1

            Hi there Mark,

            In essence the device 'breaks' the resonance that the stepper rotor suffers from, and brings it back into the control domain.

            A stepper is a spring-mass device – It does not rotate smoothly but jumps from step to step, with a mechanical oscillation at start and end. The applied voltage to each winding, in the stepping sequence, results in a torque which turns the rotor. Under normal operating domains, the rotor position lags the rotating torque vector by anywhere from 60 to 100 degrees. As the rotor speeds up, however, this lag starts to increase, for various reasons – one being that the current does not have enough time to build up in the winding, due to the shorter period that winding is 'on' and the winding inductance. When the lag increases, and approaches 180 degrees, the torque vector is more out of phase with the rotor position, and the rotor stalls, looses steps, or can even go in the opposite direction!

            The addition of a flywheel adds inertia to the oscillation at start and stop, adding a peturbation to the oscillation, and retarding the phase lag, helping reduce the lag and the loss of torque. The rollers inside the holes add a second order perturbation to the lag, reducing it drastically. In effect, the rollers attempt to retard the step-rotation of the wheel at the start of the step – they are standing still while the flywheel moves, and then they are moving while the flywheel comes to a near halt at the end of the step, so they continue moving and 'smack' into the side of the holes in the wheel, damping the oscillation at that point.

            They add very little audible noise in this specific application, as heard from the video – they are also very effective at very low speeds, especially at the natural resonant frequency of the motor, but at that rpm ( between 20 and 150, for typical motors) they are very noisy! For those application there is a viscous damper – a flywheel attached to the shaft, surround with thick silicon oil, and the whole thing encased in a circular enclosure that surrounds the flywheel completely – the enclosure rides on bearings on the shaft to which the flywheel is attached, The enclosure is also quite heavy. The flywheel then tries to accelerate the enclosure through the friction of the silicone oil, but the enclosure lags, and when the flywheel decelerates , the enclosure continues spinning – again a second order damper, but completely quiet. But not so easy to DIY!

            Joe

            #379665
            Neil Wyatt
            Moderator
              @neilwyatt
              Posted by John Hinkley on 07/11/2018 19:56:57:

              Not quite today; the last couple of days, actually. "Playing" – as my wife calls it – with Alibre Atom3D. Unwilling to wait for the next instalment, I've continued with the engine design that I've been mulling over for a while. I've decided to re-do the crank with scalloped webs instead of circular ones, but later on. In the meantime I've tried my hand at the cylinder block. It will be a wet-liner, 4-cylinder job with a swept volume of 123cc. I don't know if I'm going about it the right way, but I've built the block up (down, really ) from the cylinder head face in slices, which are then individually sculpted with cut-outsetc, before the next layer is added. Many mistakes and re-tries later, this is what I've go to show for it:

              Cylinder block

              I don't know where the red lines are from, maybe they are boundary lines. ( I'm too wrapped up to read the manual at the moment! ) David Jupp has given me a link to some videos, so I'll have a look at them soon.

              It's not the prettiest engine I'd have to agree, but, hey, even Cosworth had to start somewhere!

              John

              Edited to remove smiley face.

              Edited By John Hinkley on 07/11/2018 19:58:23

              Well done John!

              Neil

              #379682
              Ian P
              Participant
                @ianp

                The rattle damper is intriguing, I cannot say I fully understand its theory but seeing your test results I started thinking about whether reducing the mass of the slug carrier would improve it. Adding a rigid 'flywheel' to the spindle of a motor that theoretically at least, is moving in a series of start and stops seems a counter productive procedure.

                Without the damper fitted how much effect on the maximum stepper RPM does the tightness of the belt have? If the belt was slightly loose then the mass of the driven pulley, worm, and the pinion load, would be decoupled from the stepper shaft thus allowing it to more easily keep up with what the motor windings are telling it to do. I know this is at variance with your description of the rotor oscillations but adding some torsional compliance (as long as it does not introduce too much backlash) might be a way of maximising stepper speed.

                Ian

                #379698
                Joseph Noci 1
                Participant
                  @josephnoci1

                  Ian,

                  To everyone, please forgive the verbose post – essentially why I did not add it to the first post on these tests.

                  If there is better place in another topic heading, would a moderator please move it so..I thought with many folk playing with steppers ( and steppered rotary tables) the info may be useful, but it all gets lost so quickly down the pages.

                  This post is spilt in two as demanded by the forum word-counter…

                  I did not give the long description of tests I did with the stepper damper, but the addition of just the wheel without the slugs, that is, just a flywheel, showed a great improvement in achievable upper speed limit, and good improvement with regard to lack of stall at very low speeds ( 20 to 60rpm range – I am talking of stepper rpm here, not hob spindle rpm).

                  The test method was – apply 40v to the stepper drive, do the run at the three stepper RPM's, and see what happens. Increase the voltage to 50v and repeat, then to 60v and repeat. I also tried at 75v ( my driver can manage 80v) but the stepper motor was not happy there, even with no load.

                  Additionally a low speed test was done – from 0rpm to 100 rpm over 3 seconds at the three voltages.

                  At each of the voltages the test run was first with no flywheel attached, then flywheel only, then slugs fitted in the flywheel.

                  The motor was always connected to the load, with the drive belt taut – maybe 3mm deflection at centre span with a good finger push..

                  The three stepper speeds were approx 340rpm (spindle = 120rpm), 570rpm(spindle = 200rpm) and 1060rpm(spindle = 370rpm).

                  The mill spindle reached terminal rpm within 230ms(120rpm), 270ms(200rpm) and 305ms(370rpm) – takes longer to spin to higher spindle RPM due to the spindle inertia. This was measured using an oscilloscope timing the rotary encoder pulses, and seeing when they reached terminal width. The stepper has to accelerate and achieve terminal rpm in the same time.

                  I did not do any tests with the belt loose – I am trying to have as little backlash in the system as possible. For interest I may try with a loose belt, although not sure to what purpose..I suspect from the tests with no flywheel that is will be worse – the rotor is free to oscillate as it wishes, with no damping at all.

                  Incidentally, removing the flywheel, and using one of the rotary table locking handles to partially 'lock' the table, ie, add friction to the tables rotation, also improved matters. Anything that dampens the rotor oscillation has a positive effect, and this is also used commercially, with friction brakes, or maybe clutches, on the rotor shaft that have centrifugally activated pressure plates. Not efficient, but this was used in the 'old' days..

                  It is common in commercial applications to add just a flywheel to the stepper shaft to help the motor through resonance spots – many photo-copiers, (old) photoplotters, big printers, flat bed plotters, etc have this applied.

                  Joe

                   

                  Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 08/11/2018 06:30:38

                  #379699
                  Joseph Noci 1
                  Participant
                    @josephnoci1

                    The second part of the post on the voltage/rpm tests on the stepper and damper..

                    With no flywheel.

                    40V supply
                    340rpm no problem. 570rpm fails occasionaly. 1060rpm fails instantly. Low speed test – occasional stall around 20 to 30rpm

                    50V supply.
                    340rpm no problem. 570rpm achieved but very audible note getting there. 1060rpm fails instantly. Low speed test – occasional stall around 20 to 30rpm, but less often.

                    60V supply.
                    340rpm no problem. 570rpm achieved , still very audible note getting there. 1060rpm fails instantly. Low speed test – no stall around 20 to 30rpm, but very noisy around those rpm's.

                    Flywheel only.

                    40V supply.
                    340rpm, 570rpm, no failures. 1060rpm fails almost immediately. Low speed test – No stalls,  – subjectively the motor seemed smoother at low rpm.

                    50V supply.
                    340rpm, 570rpm, no failures. 1060rpm fails after 1 -2 seconds running. Low speed test – No stalls, – subjectively the motor seemed MUCH smoother at low rpm.

                    60V supply.
                    340rpm, 570rpm, no failures. 1060rpm would fail once in 2 or 3 tries. Low speed test – No stalls, – OBJECTIVELY the motor was MUCH smoother at low rpm.

                    Flywheel and slugs.

                    40V supply.
                    340rpm, 570rpm, no failures. 1060rpm would fail once in 2 or 3 tries. Low speed test – No stalls, slugs noisy between 15rpm and 60rpm – motor much smoother at low rpm.

                    50V supply.
                    340rpm, 570rpm,1060rpm, no failures. Low speed test – No stalls, slugs LESS noisy between 15rpm and 60rpm – motor much smoother

                    60V supply.
                    340rpm, 570rpm, 1060rpm, no failures. Low speed test – No stalls, slugs quieter between 15rpm and 60rpm – OBJECTIVELY the motor was MUCH smoother at low rpm.

                    some observations –

                    Higher voltage IS needed at high rpm's – Di/Dt issues, and needed to overcome the back-emf at higher speeds.

                    A simple flywheel does wonders

                    The added slugs make a small miracle..

                    Joe

                    edit – usual typo's..

                    Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 08/11/2018 06:38:42

                    #379704
                    JasonB
                    Moderator
                      @jasonb
                      Posted by John Hinkley on 07/11/2018 19:56:57:

                      Cylinder block

                      I don't know where the red lines are from, maybe they are boundary lines. ( I'm too wrapped up to read the manual at the moment! ) David Jupp has given me a link to some videos, so I'll have a look at them soon.

                      John, the red lines are each of the sketches, there should be an option to have them visible or hidden but it is slightly different in Atom so I won't confuse you by showing how I can do it. You can also hide the green Axis & plane if desired.

                      Engine looks good

                      #379705
                      thaiguzzi
                      Participant
                        @thaiguzzi
                        Posted by Circlip on 05/11/2018 10:14:02:

                        Nigel, Triumph 5T adaptors, Is the head normally threaded or did that have to be done too? Venom Clubman has a pushed in spigot (REALLY bad idea).

                        Regards Ian.

                        I'll answer that for you, as Nigel has'nt yet.

                        All Triumph twin alloy c/heads with a stub, ie push over exhausts, were threaded into the head. Stopped in 71 with the advent of the retrograde step of push in exhausts.

                        Nice little earner back in the day for me, converting push in heads to push over heads. All done on a Colchester Student with the tool post removed, a jig bolted to the top slide and drilled and tapped from the headstock.

                        Must of done nearly a hundred heads….

                        #379706
                        John Hinkley
                        Participant
                          @johnhinkley26699

                          Thanks for the tip, Jason. I'll investigate later after this morning's Tesco raid. As for the engine, I fear it will remain a virtual one – I can't see the block being cast easily and I would imagine the cost of an aluminium billet that size would be unaffordable. I suppose, if I kept all the swarf, I could get half my money back! Maybe I should be looking into getting a 3D printer and scale it down a bit?

                          John

                          #379711
                          Speedy Builder5
                          Participant
                            @speedybuilder5

                            An update on the thread **LINK**

                            Have now cleaned up the two WW1 150mm German Howitzer cartridges and mounted them to make a couple of gongs. The 'hammer heads' were made from a semi hard ball from a toy shop covered in wet chamois leather. I now have to decide which auction site would be best for selling them.

                            Gong1.jpg

                            Gong2.jpg

                            #379716
                            Neil Wyatt
                            Moderator
                              @neilwyatt
                              Posted by JasonB on 08/11/2018 07:30:54:

                              Posted by John Hinkley on 07/11/2018 19:56:57:

                              Cylinder block

                              I don't know where the red lines are from, maybe they are boundary lines. ( I'm too wrapped up to read the manual at the moment! ) David Jupp has given me a link to some videos, so I'll have a look at them soon.

                              John, the red lines are each of the sketches, there should be an option to have them visible or hidden but it is slightly different in Atom so I won't confuse you by showing how I can do it. You can also hide the green Axis & plane if desired.

                              Engine looks good

                              In Atom3D under viewing prefrences you can 'toggle sketches' and 'toggle references' as well as a number of other options.

                              #379721
                              Robin
                              Participant
                                @robin
                                Posted by Joseph Noci 1 on 08/11/2018 06:34:25:

                                The second part of the post on the voltage/rpm tests on the stepper and damper..

                                I've missed a lot of this but it looks wonderful. To hob a 14 tooth gear with a 40:1 reduction worm requires virtual gearing 14:40

                                Assuming 400 half steps/rev on the motor it works out beautifully 400 x 14 / 40 requires 140 steps/rev.

                                I'm guessing you are 3d printing quadrature encoders to go on the spindle.

                                The easiest way to read a quadrature encoder is to combine new data with previous data, turning 2 bits in to 4 and then using a look up table to get step and direction.

                                I know I am a nosey git, but am I right? smiley

                                #379722
                                John MC
                                Participant
                                  @johnmc39344

                                  I rebored a pair of motorcycle cylinders earlier. A tricky setup, they were standard size but worn, the pistons I want to use are 0.25mm over size so not much to come out and be sure the bores would clean up. the suns shining so I'm going to jump on the Suzuki and take them the be honed.

                                  John

                                  img_20181023_134005913_hdr.jpg

                                  #379723
                                  John Hinkley
                                  Participant
                                    @johnhinkley26699

                                    Posted by Neil Wyatt:

                                    "In Atom3D under viewing prefrences you can 'toggle sketches' and 'toggle references' as well as a number of other options."

                                    Thanks for the pointer, Neil, that did the trick. I really should read the manual!.

                                    John

                                    How do you display a proper quote?

                                    #379729
                                    Neil Wyatt
                                    Moderator
                                      @neilwyatt
                                      Posted by John Hinkley on 08/11/2018 10:07:29:

                                      Posted by Neil Wyatt:

                                      "In Atom3D under viewing prefrences you can 'toggle sketches' and 'toggle references' as well as a number of other options."

                                      Thanks for the pointer, Neil, that did the trick. I really should read the manual!.

                                      John

                                      How do you display a proper quote?

                                      Click 'quote' under a posting You can delete any bits you don't want

                                      If you 'lose' the blank line at a the bottom you can get a new one by hovering top or bottom with the mouse and you get a red new line icon that inserts a line that isn't part of the quote.

                                      #379740
                                      Paul White 3
                                      Participant
                                        @paulwhite3

                                        Joseph Noci post earlier today.

                                        This is a most interesting post, in my opinion, which for me, raises a number of questions Joe.

                                        1.Was there any science behind the dia. of flywheel choice, the material used or any weight target?

                                        2. Was the choice of slug material and radius of location following any calculation ?

                                        3. would a smaller steel flywheel with lead slugs be as effective (or better) ?

                                        paul.

                                        #379742
                                        John Hinkley
                                        Participant
                                          @johnhinkley26699
                                          Posted by Neil Wyatt on 08/11/2018 10:42:53:

                                          Click 'quote' under a posting You can delete any bits you don't want

                                          If you 'lose' the blank line at a the bottom you can get a new one by hovering top or bottom with the mouse and you get a red new line icon that inserts a line that isn't part of the quote.

                                          Got it! Ta.

                                          John

                                           

                                          Edited By John Hinkley on 08/11/2018 12:05:52

                                          #379750
                                          DrDave
                                          Participant
                                            @drdave

                                            Well, yesterday, really. But I had some difficulty uploading a screenshot to my album…

                                            I have a desirement to build a Corliss engine, so I have modelled it up in CAD. This found the two missing dimensions before metal is cut. Doing the CAD model first also allows me to see how it all goes together, where the significant dimensions are and, especially for the Corliss, animate it to see how the valve gear works. The drawings that I have taken this engine from are actually very good, but I have found that some drawings are so poor (or just plain wrong) that they will never work. I have taken to making a CAD model of most things before I start, now.

                                            Next step: try to accumulate bits of metal without SWMBO noticing!

                                            corliss fusion 360.jpg

                                            #379778
                                            Muzzer
                                            Participant
                                              @muzzer

                                              Joe

                                              This damper looks to share some behaviour with dual mass flywheels (DMFs) although it uses the centrifugal force on the slugs to make them behave as if sprung to their default position, ie storing energy as potential energy (radially), resulting from rotational speed variation. DMFs generally use a circumferential helical spring to store energy due to variation in rotational speed, although I do recall one that had a mass mounted on 2 large dowels, rather like an inside out version of yours.

                                              I guess you'd be able to tune the effective spring constant in your damper by changing the diameter of the holes. Larger holes = lower spring constant. As you say, there is no actual damping element per se unless you introduce some sort of viscous medium which could be messy! I suppose you could get the sums wrong and end up with an unhelpful resonance just where you don't want it but you seem to have avoided that.

                                              Murray

                                              #379788
                                              GoCreate
                                              Participant
                                                @gocreate
                                                Posted by Circlip on 05/11/2018 10:14:02:

                                                Nigel, Triumph 5T adaptors, Is the head normally threaded or did that have to be done too? Venom Clubman has a pushed in spigot (REALLY bad idea).

                                                Regards Ian.

                                                Yes, as Thiagussi says, the exhaust ports on this 1959 Triumph 5T cylinder head are threaded, they are 1-1/2" x 16tpi with 55 deg included angle.

                                                Nigel

                                                #379791
                                                Neil Wyatt
                                                Moderator
                                                  @neilwyatt

                                                  I like the idea of rattle harmonic balancers.

                                                  They could fit them to Mondeos and you wouldn't have to wait 60,000 miles before they sound like a bag of spanners.

                                                  :-0

                                                  N.

                                                  #379993
                                                  Brian H
                                                  Participant
                                                    @brianh50089

                                                    I've been cracking on with the boiler for my Burrell-Boydell road loco.

                                                    Boiler Assy 1

                                                    Boiler Assy 2

                                                    The things holding it all together are called skin pins and are used in the aircraft industry for fastening sheet components together for drilling and riveting. The red ones are 3/32" and the yellow ones are 1/8". They are not expensive and are much less fiddly that BA screws etc.

                                                    The boiler barrell is 3 3/4" in diameter

                                                    Brian

                                                    #379994
                                                    alan-lloyd
                                                    Participant
                                                      @alan-lloyd

                                                      John mc, are those Ariel Arrow/Leader cylinders?

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