Slitting saw arbours

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Slitting saw arbours

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  • #18132
    Carl Wilson 4
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      @carlwilson4
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      #245432
      Carl Wilson 4
      Participant
        @carlwilson4

        Going to make an arbour for some 1″ bore slitting saws I have acquired.

        1. Key on arbour or not? Will just a clamping nut drive sufficiently for home use?

        2. Arbour to be made to run in a collet or make a more taper?

        Opinions please.

        Tapadh Leat,

        Carl.

        #245435
        Carl Wilson 4
        Participant
          @carlwilson4

          Morse taper I meant.

          #245438
          Bob Brown 1
          Participant
            @bobbrown1

            I made one which just relies on the clamp load but it was thin less than 0.5mm, my logic was better to let it slip than break.

            #245439
            Michael Gilligan
            Participant
              @michaelgilligan61133

              Are you only expecting one person to reply, Carl?

              **LINK** devil

              .

              The general wisdom is that slitting saws are safer without keys.

              However; if you run them that way, the retaining screw/nut can tighten up … So remember to include spanner flats or a cross-hole on the arbor. … I write from bitter experience with a small [1/4" bore] saw.

              MichaelG.

              #245450
              Carl Wilson 4
              Participant
                @carlwilson4

                Thanks for the advice. Was thinking about a simple design with a relatively thick clamping disc secured by a countersunk M8 screw.

                #245452
                Carl Wilson 4
                Participant
                  @carlwilson4

                  And if I put the almost finished blank in the collet I want to use in the mill, I should be able to finish turn it against a tool in the vice. Thus the finished diameter should have almost no runout. In theory….

                  #245455
                  MW
                  Participant
                    @mw27036

                    The slitting saws i buy that are 5" wide with a 1" bore all have a keyway and although i have both a keywayed and non keywayed arbour i've never used it keywayed. I found that the load on the tool was rather minimal. Make sure you make the arbor long enough to take advantage of it because your collet chuck will need to take up some of the room and enough arbor to fill atleast 2/3rds of the collet, if you don't use this much room the consequences will be an arbor that spins out of round. (presuming this is an ER collet, where the makers of the ER system themselves give these guidelines).

                    Michael W

                    Edited By Michael Walters on 05/07/2016 00:22:35

                    #245467
                    Ian S C
                    Participant
                      @iansc

                      If you use a Morse Taper on the arbour, it must have a draw bar, although if used in a lathe, support from a tailstock centre is possible.

                      Ian S C

                      #245474
                      Carl Wilson 4
                      Participant
                        @carlwilson4

                        Thanks Michael and Ian. Collet engagement depth and drawbar requirement duly noted.

                        #245497
                        Michael Cox 1
                        Participant
                          @michaelcox1

                          If you use a thick washer with countersunk screw you will find that this limits what you can cut especially when it is held in a vice.

                          I prefer this style of slitting saw arbour:

                          http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/slitting-saw-arbor.html

                          I agree with others that there is no need for a key.

                          Mike

                          #245520
                          chris stephens
                          Participant
                            @chrisstephens63393

                            The best design slitting saw arbour I have seen so far is Stefan Gotteswinter's

                            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRQPv4AG2HQ and part two

                            but Robrenz comes a novel second with his superglued one when he made his micro-Ohm meter probes. If you haven't come across him yet, he is a perfectionist's perfectionist with attention to detail scales off the charts.

                            #245526
                            Raymond Anderson
                            Participant
                              @raymondanderson34407

                              Carl, if you decide to do as you mention and finish turn the arbor whilst held in the mill spindle your mill head would need to be very well trammed in or else a taper will result. best if you did them in the lathe. A slight radial runout on the finished arbor is not so critical, but any Axial runout [wobble] is. Its the Axial runout that causes slitting saws to wander and jam up. There is no more than 0.005mm [Axial ] at the edge of a 100 Ø blade on these. They are made from EN24T steel, two are ISO 30 and one is straight shank. I have never need a key. Also you need to remember that when slitting deep,Slitting saw arbors the mill head MUST be trammed in very very close to perfect in the X and Y because if not, in a deep cut the blade WILL jam up.Slitting saw arbors

                              #245527
                              Carl Wilson 4
                              Participant
                                @carlwilson4

                                Thanks to Mike, Raymond and Chris. Really good info. Don’t think my mill will be up to turning in situ…Thanks for all the tips.

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