ML7 questions

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

I think that "Metrinch" predates "Flank Drive".

Metrinch Sockets and Ring Spanners feel odd in use, (very sloppy) but will fit almost anything AND importantly slacken a fixing which has resisted all efforts until the corners have been rounded.

Personally, I do not like the feel of the Open End spanners, they do FEEL ready to slip, so avoid their use. But the sockets and rings give NO qualms . NEVER have had one slip!

An ideal tool, that will cope with Whitworth, A/F or Metric.

So a good buy where Whit spanners or sockets are in the hens teeth league.

Howard

[Swarf, Mostly!Participant @swarfmostly]

Posted by ega on 12/12/2018 17:28:09:

This extract from an old Bedford catalogue may be helpful:

SNIP

Sorry about the bleed-through from the reverse!

A trick that usually works to stop bleed-through is to put the target document on the platen of the scanner or photocopier and then lay a sheet of black paper on top of it, then close the lid.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Howard Lewis on 12/12/2018 18:27:39:

I think that "Metrinch" predates "Flank Drive".

.

Probably true, Howard

For info. I've just found the Ruzicka patent: **LINK**

https://worldwide.espacenet.com/publicationDetails/originalDocument?CC=EP&NR=0525356A1&KC=A1&FT=D&ND=3&date=19930203&DB=EPODOC&locale=en_EP

MichaelG.

[egaParticipant @ega]

Swarf, Mostly!

Thanks for the tip which I will try.

The platen does, of course, have a cover but it is white. I wonder why black is better in this case.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by ega on 12/12/2018 23:18:22:

The platen does, of course, have a cover but it is white. I wonder why black is better in this case.

.

The white provides best contrast for single-sided originals

The black masks the original contrast on the reverse, so the scanner is seeing black on [reasonably even] pale grey instead of black on a pattern.

MichaelG.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

BS spanners are still commonly available from sellers who deal with old British car and motorbike restoration etc. And there's always eBay UK.

[Alan Johnson 7Participant @alanjohnson7]

MEW No.178, Page 46. An Oiler for the Myford Lathe. I made one, and it works very well.

Set a sharp pointed tool at centre height – using a centre in th headstock taper and scribe a line on the tailstock barrel. You will never loose it!

Regards,

Alan.

[Alan Johnson 7Participant @alanjohnson7]

As an addendum – for our 'beginner' friends……. I use a thread cutting tool mounted at + 90 degrees to the normal position (for thread cutting). Set it to centre height. Lock the tailstock (to the bed). Extend the quill of the tailstock, and lock it. Use the thread cutting tool to scribe a line on the quill of the tailstock – by wracking the carriage. About 25 to 40 mm will be adequate. Stone the scribe mark on the the taistock quill (to make it look 'nice&#39. You may want to practice on a piece of bar stock that you have' turned earlier – to make sure the scribed line you make is 'crisp.'

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

CATCH 22.

Before scribing the line on the Tailstock Barrel, you have to set the tool to Centre Height, so either you spend a lot of time experimenting, or you make some form of Centre Height Gauge!

Howard

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

I'm not sure why there is so much discussion about spanners. It matters not a jot what the label on the spanner says, its across flats distance needs to be just a shade bigger than the a/f measurement of the nut.

[egaParticipant @ega]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 12/12/2018 23:33:26:

Posted by ega on 12/12/2018 23:18:22:

The platen does, of course, have a cover but it is white. I wonder why black is better in this case.

.

The white provides best contrast for single-sided originals

The black masks the original contrast on the reverse, so the scanner is seeing black on [reasonably even] pale grey instead of black on a pattern.

MichaelG.

 

Thank you – that seems logical. I did try using a black platen cover and obtained variable results depending on the scanner settings. I did, however, find a clean copy of the catalogue concerned and have added it below:

PS I prefer the PDF format for this kind of thing but understand the software will not allow it.

Edited By ega on 14/12/2018 11:35:40

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

 

Posted by John Haine on 14/12/2018 11:10:54:

I'm not sure why there is so much discussion about spanners. It matters not a jot what the label on the spanner says, its across flats distance needs to be just a shade bigger than the a/f measurement of the nut.

Well said, JH.

And if the jaws are not quite larger, most will have recourse to a mill to make them slightly larger! But scrub out/cover up/re-mark/whatever, so that the spanner is clearly not what it was marked as, prior to the modification. Alternatively, rely on a monkey wrench.

Edited By not done it yet on 14/12/2018 11:40:39

[NorboyParticipant @norboy]

You were asking the correct spanner sizes. The myford spanner’s that came with my ML7 were 1/4 WW x 3/16 WW and 3/8WW x 5/16 WW. They were also stamped with their respective BSF sizes which were 5/16 BSF x 1/4 BSF and 7/16 BSF x 3/8 BSF. I hope this helps. Alan

[Nigel McBurney 1Participant @nigelmcburney1]

My myford has sat for around 50 years on a homemade wooden stand,made from old bedframe timber vary hard and well seasoned,bolted on top there is a 7in by 3 in steel channel girder as long as the lathe,this forms a rigid bed for the lathe to sit on,I made my own raising blocks from thick aluminium plate,these keep the bed well off the steel tray and makes clearing swarf from under the bed a lot easier,I made my stand and blocks as I was too tight to buy Myford parts.The money was better spent on lhe lathe and tooling, Regarding spanners why not just buy a couple of metric spaners with smaller jaws than Whit sizes and open up the jaws with a file or angle grinder,Open end spanners are more than adequate to tighten nuts ad bolts on a Myford,they do not require to be super tight,you are not pulling down a cylinder head.The Myford originals are black drop stamped open ended.nothing fancy.

[clivelParticipant @clivel]

Posted by Alan Johnson 7 on 13/12/2018 05:48:46:

MEW No.178, Page 46. An Oiler for the Myford Lathe. I made one, and it works very well.

Alan.

Thanks Alan,
I had already ordered the oiler from Press Parts when you posted this, but hopefully this will be useful to anyone else who comes across this thread.
Clive

[clivelParticipant @clivel]

Posted by John Haine on 14/12/2018 11:10:54:

I'm not sure why there is so much discussion about spanners. It matters not a jot what the label on the spanner says, its across flats distance needs to be just a shade bigger than the a/f measurement of the nut.

Because when ordering online it is so much easier to order a 5/16" BSF spanner than for example "I need a spanner 15.25mm AF or slightly smaller which I can mill to size"

Posted by Norboy on 14/12/2018 13:32:51:

You were asking the correct spanner sizes. The myford spanner’s that came with my ML7 were 1/4 WW x 3/16 WW and 3/8WW x 5/16 WW. They were also stamped with their respective BSF sizes which were 5/16 BSF x 1/4 BSF and 7/16 BSF x 3/8 BSF. I hope this helps.

Alan

Thanks Alan,
That is exactly what I was looking for, and thanks to everyone else for the helpful suggestions.
Clive

[clivelParticipant @clivel]

Posted by Nigel McBurney 1 on 14/12/2018 15:29:30:

My myford has sat for around 50 years on a homemade wooden stand,made from old bedframe timber vary hard and well seasoned,bolted on top there is a 7in by 3 in steel channel girder as long as the lathe,this forms a rigid bed for the lathe to sit on,I made my own raising blocks from thick aluminium plate,these keep the bed well off the steel tray and makes clearing swarf from under the bed a lot easier

Nigel,
Excellent advice,
Thank,
Clive

[Darren Gallagher 1Participant @darrengallagher1]

Thanks for the information about the Oil Gun ive been looking for a reasonable priced one for ages for my ML7.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

I found that the Myford oil gun, was a scatter gun, lubricating everything except what was needed.

I bought a Reilang. Relatively more expensive than the Myford article, but the difference is that it puts oil where you want it, with almost no leakage, and will work in almost any position.

It has been a good investment, thoroughly recommend it.

With regard to spanners, it is possible to tighten / slacken hardware with a slightly oversize open end spanner, by inserting a packer of the correct size between one of the jaws and the flat of the hexagon, or square.

better to use the correct size, but sometimes, the devil drives, where needs must!

Howard

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