Best way to cut stock to size

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Wow Ian. I knew people have used them extensively.

One advantage I think they do have over small reciprocating ones especially is blade length – more of it to wear out.

Mine has only failed to cut one thing. I came across some ancient 6" cast iron stench pipe and had the bright idea of using a section of it for something to go in the fireplace. I'd guess it was continuously cast and cooled with water almost immediately, I've never used it on stainless or toolsteel. This is with the original blades. I bought several a long time ago. Nothing special. Think I have one left. It may be possible to get bi metal blades for them now. I think mine is 2 speed – cold so not going out to look. The machine mart one is 3 speed.

The blade did run off a few times initially. I just tightened it up more. The vice is a bit naff but has been ok for me.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 03/01/2017 13:07:31

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

One thing to watch is when cutting large diameter steel shaft is the gap closing trapping the blade, this was about 4" into a 6" shaft. Managed to get the blade out. Now on similar cuts I go halfway, then turn it round and finish from the other side. It's hard work sorting a jammed blade in a 50kg lump of steel.

Ian S C

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

If the gap starts closing, pop a small wedge into the top of the gap. Job done

**LINK**

for all your bandsaw blades (Usual disclaimer)

[Men IfrParticipant @menifr84251]

Just an update I bought a 14" Titan abraisive chopsaw for £80 from screwfix that was rubbish – the clamping system would not hold the piece properly – also it was very very slow to cut – much slower than an angle grinder with 1mm disk – maybe because the chop saw disk is 3mm.

Anyway I took that back and bought an evolution sliding 210mm mitre saw for £100 (reason is at least with a mitre saw you have a true 90deg angle to the back – the chopsaws appear to all have flimsy clamps that cannot be set upto 90 deg.

Anyway I'm massively impressed with this saw – goes through steel or alu very easy and both angles can be adjusted to get true 90degrees.

For smaller pieces I drilled through the base-plate so I can hold my milling machine clamps on there making it quite versitile.

Next job it to replace the plastic bits where the blade goes through which leave 10mm gap either side of the blade with something solid then I'll just cut a slot in that the blade needs so there is zero gap from the surface to the blade.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I have one of these bought on a vat free day back in 2013, very useful machine, although the stand is the usual Chinese poor quality sheet steel & would need reinforcing. don't attempt to move it with the frame in the upright position …yes people do!… centre of gravity is way too high, it will tip straight over & give you a nasty belt in the proverbials or whatever is in the way & capable of doing some serious damage.

​I'm on to the last blade that is left from a pack of 5 that I bought with the VAT savings so can't grumble, many have changed to a bi-metallic blade which, from all accounts cuts much better & with claims of better blade longevity. Not happy with the blade gap on the table when in vertical position & again cheap Chinese sheet steel… must remember to modify it!. Overall a capable machine for the home workshop.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cbs45md-41-2in-x-6in-metal-cutting-ban/?da=1&TC=GS-060710025&gclid=CLT-7_Gzo9ECFQzhGwod7GgPEQ

George.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Having fried a Bosch angle grinder,(noisy) I got a Makita as part of my retirement present, quite noisy, but still going 13 years later.

Strangely, the very quiet one is the Power Devil that I bought to go in the cheapy stand to use it as a chop saw.

Seems that its gears that make the noise on angle grinders.

Use the 4 1/2 inch bandsaw for most work, or a slitting saw in the mill / drill. Hacksaw only used for jobs that are quicker than getting out and setting up, the bandsaw.

Howard

[BWParticipant @bw]

Posted by Michael-w on 02/01/2017 13:01:53:

I would personally conclude from this, the cleanest, most efficient and cheapest way to get through stock without hand tools has to be a D.I.Y metal cutting bandsaw. They have a proven track record of being able to cut through the vast majority of materials, in sizes under 6" in a reasonable amount of time, without hitting the wallet too hard.

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 02/01/2017 13:11:56

Ive seen diy wood cutting bandsaws and diy metal cutting hacksaws but not familiar with diy metal cutting bandsaws mentioned above. Unless its the Gingery one ?

Any good photos or plans or websites I should look at ?

Bill

[BWParticipant @bw]

OK, I googled and found some diy metal cutting bandsaws. I'd never bothered having a good look beyond converting woodcutting ones.

[Paul H 1Participant @paulh1]

The horizontal/vertical bandsaw as discussed in this thread I have found to be a first class bit of kit for its price. I bought one for our workshop at work in the early '80s as money was very tight. Used carefully it did first class service for years and was still useful after we bought a big industrial bandsaw. The work done by Ian's bandsaw is a very good example of what you can do in quantity. With the right blades we also cut a lot of stainless steel.

Last year I bought another one from a French website with a German brand name. Still Chinese, but the quality is much better than the original I bought and it does the job very well. I have an Evolution cut off saw, which though efficient is very noisy. Using the bandsaw allows me to set up the cut and just leave the machine to it and quietly as well.

As Michael W points out there are loads of mods available. I have Mike Cox's on my to do list. In my opinion his website is a must to look at for this saw.

Paul

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

Posted by Paul H 1 on 25/02/2017 14:21:03:

The horizontal/vertical bandsaw as discussed in this thread I have found to be a first class bit of kit for its price.

As Michael W points out there are loads of mods available. I have Mike Cox's on my to do list. In my opinion his website is a must to look at for this saw.

Paul

Couldn't agree more, Paul. It does what it says on the tin and I wouldn't be without it.

A cut-off saw may be quite efficient but they are rather frightening to use without ear protection and it makes the experience so awkward. Cutting outside or in the garden is probably better if you wanted one of those.

In case you missed it theres a good article in this months M.E.W about making a bandsaw repair jig to braze together broken blades still in good nick. Just so happens I've done that recently, so I might give it a go!

Michael W

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

Posted by Michael-w on 25/02/2017 14:43:06:

Just so happens I've done that recently, so I might give it a go!

Just to clarify the situation, the blade did not break because it couldn't cut a piece of material, but rather because a small shard of offcut plate fell between the gap between the passing blade and roller bearings and jammed the mechanism causing the blade to snap under tension.

Michael W

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Despite owning a couple of angle grinders, my preference is for the horizontal/vertical 4.5" bandsaw. Mine was made on a Friday afternoon before being shipped to Warco. The very thin tubular spacer between the bearings on the wormwheel shaft split and went through the lower bearing and oil seal. New bearings and seal were fitted, with a thick wall brass spacer. The thin steel spacer behind the Idler Wheel was replaced, similarly, after having trued up the two blade wheels.

The drive/driven pulleys benefited from being aligned, as no doubt did the belt.

Made up a tension meter for the blade, as featured in another UK M E magazine, and a thin test cut was consistent to within a thou! DON'T expect it to repeat that, but the best performance yet. Presumably, judged by that, it is as well set up as can be expected.

The blade seems to last longer, without breaking, or going blunt.

Has been used to cut round bar, square bar, box section, angle iron, aluminium, plastics, and whatever has been thrown at it . Would not be without it since it cuts more accurately than I can, and with almost no effort on my part.

Howard

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