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All things Beaver Mill

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  • #804991
    DC31k
    Participant
      @dc31k

      I can describe how it works on a PAL (later model). The centre hole is threaded and is what ultimately retains the boss. The boss itself has an oilite bush in it. A top hat washer whose minor diameter is the same as the projecting quill shaft is used. A spring is used between the boss and the brim of the top hat.

      The boss has one projecting pin on it which provides the drive. This, in combination with the spring, allows the handle to be repositioned in 90 degree increments.

      In principle, it operates in the same way as the knee crank handle but with fewer (only four) positions.

      See:

      http://www.vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/imagedetail.aspx?id=17685

      On my own, I made a new boss and now use a Moore jig borer-style steering wheel (originally from a boat).

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      #805049
      Andrew Skinner
      Participant
        @andrewskinner94774

        Thanks very much. I assume the quill handle is canted out at some slight angle, say 5deg, to clear the quill feed engagement lever?

        Another small problem is, the Y axis leadscrew is rumbling badly as I turn it. Is it easy enough to strip down, and to find new thrust bearings for it?

        #805105
        Swarf Maker
        Participant
          @swarfmaker85383

          Hi Andrew Skinner,

          The quill handle is very simple and basic.  I hope these photos help.

          Quill Handle 3Quill Handle 1Quill Handle 2

          #805142
          Andrew Skinner
          Participant
            @andrewskinner94774

            Thanks swarf maker, the photos do help. Does your quill handle/boss just sit there loose, or have you removed the retaining bolt?

            #805327
            Mark Rand
            Participant
              @markrand96270

              The hub connects to the inner end of the quill clock-spring. It’s a free fit on the quill pinion shaft. It should have a taper pin through its flange, the shaft, and out the other side of the flange.

              The handle is just a cylinder that’s a sliding fit on the shaft with pins to match the holes in the flange. Not sure that mine’s original, the handle’s certainly been glued onto the cylinder with some welding that makes most of mine look good!

               

              Can probably get a photo tomorrow if that’s not clear enough.

              Ignore the above, Forgot to go to the latest page in the thread. 🙁

              #805397
              Swarf Maker
              Participant
                @swarfmaker85383

                The handle sits on the shaft without any form of retention.  It is therefore easy to slide to the right and reposition for the required stroke of the quill.  Would only be a problem if the head was tilted to the right.

                #805414
                Andrew Skinner
                Participant
                  @andrewskinner94774

                  Right, cheers. I guess I could make a knurled knob to retain it if needed, using those threads in the end of the quill shaft.

                  #805470
                  Charles Lamont
                  Participant
                    @charleslamont71117

                    The arrangement on my Beaver Model A is very similar, but the hub of the handle has a tapped radial hole with a bolt in it to stop the handle falling off. I don’t know if it is original or a mod. Finger tight means it occasionally comes adrift, but at the same time it is easy to reposition the handle for convenience. Ideal would be spring loaded ball dropping into a shallow groove round the quill pinion shaft.

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