John Wilding Elegant Scroll Skeleton Clock

[John WallettParticipant @johnwallett97180]

Hi Guys I am building the clock, looking at the layout plans the Center Pinion to Great Wheel says it's 1 5/32" but if you measure it it is 1 7/32 all the other measurements are correct anyone built the clock? Thanks John

[John WallettParticipant @johnwallett97180]

[roy entwistleParticipant @royentwistle24699]

Add the pcd of the pinion to the pcd of the great wheel and divide by 2. When you get to planting the train use a depthing tool

 

Roy

Edited By roy entwistle on 10/02/2017 16:12:03

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

I don't know that clock but errors like that often creep in. It's best just to set the wheel and pinion up on a depthing tool, adjusting the distance for smooth running and then use the tool for marking out the plates.

Russell.

[John WallettParticipant @johnwallett97180]

Hi guys

Thank you for the reply my concern is as it's an 1/8" between the second and third pinion hole as you make your way to doing the others the error follows leaving very little on the frame and no where near the centre of where they should be! the escapement centre worries me! the measurements between the escape and third are fine! I haven't as yet done the cut outs above the fusee.

I know I have to do the final with a depthing tool I didn't what to start fretting out the plates if there is a problem as the layout clearly stated 1 5/32" and it measures 1 7/32"!

I wondered is there had been any amendments my book is 1978 fourth edition.

Kind Regards,

John.

[RJWParticipant @rjw]

John, As Roy and Russell have mentioned, you do need to use a depthing tool to plant those pivot holes. forget marking the centres out any other way,
I'd also start from the centre wheel and work outwards when planting the train, the front pallet arbour hole at the top is an eccentric bush, so if the planted centre ends up being a bit 'off' it wont matter or be obvious,

If not already done, I'd also leave cutting out the centre frame panels until you've marked out the pivots centres, that way you can scribe the plates for exposing the 'straps' either side of the pivot holes equally to ensure that the holes are actually central, it'll help keep things tidy.

if you're building this clock from Wilding's book and you don't have a depthing tool, you'll probably find an irritating reference on page 45 to the Wilding depthing tool being in his first series, unfortunately he doesn't state the 1st series of what, I have his 1990 book and the earlier 1979 hardback of this clock and it states exactly the same in both,
The drawings and details of his depthing tool takes up about a page and is included in the Crystal wheel Skeleton clock and also his 'Tools for the Clockmaker' publication, so it's a bit mean IMHO to have left it out of this book,
If you don't have a depthing tool and would like details of Wilding's fairly simple tool for the job, let me know and I'll scan the details for you,

I'm about half way into the same clock BTW.

John.

[John WallettParticipant @johnwallett97180]

Hi John thanks for the reply I don't have a depthing tool yet!! I have mounted the wheels on the arbors yes that reference to the depthing tool was very helpful!

What still confuses me is every measurement is near enough 100% correct apart from the 1 5/32" one?

I would appreciate some info on the depthing tool John.

Thanks again

John.

[RJWParticipant @rjw]

No problem John, I'll send you a private message for your Email address and send you the scan direct,

Not sure how difficult it'll be now you've mounted the wheels, but you may have to dismount them to use the Wilding tool, but I'll check, I have a proper depthing tool so never needed to make it,

John.

[John WallettParticipant @johnwallett97180]

Thank You John much appreciated.

John.

[RJWParticipant @rjw]

Ignore that last reply John, must have been a typo' the message facility has picked you up now.

If you open the 'inbox' tab at the top of the page, you should pick up my message there.

John.

Edited By RJW on 10/02/2017 18:46:26

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

You can message any member by clicking 'message member' under one of their posts whether they have a public profile or not.

Neil

[RJWParticipant @rjw]

Thanks Neil, that's helpful, you learn something new every day on here.

John.

[Andy HoldawayParticipant @andyholdaway]

John, quoting from the description of the book on Ian T Cobb's website, "The opportunity has been taken here to update the information on the material suppliers, to correct errors in the text and drawings and to include four appendices which cover gaps in the original description. Most important is the provision of a full size and accurate drawing of the frames which can be cemented to the brass sheet and used as a template for cutting out the profile."

Looks like you could have found one of the errors! It doesn't state any revision history for the book, but it looks like it has been updated a few times since then.

Andy

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Depthing tool? just join this helpful site

[John WallettParticipant @johnwallett97180]

Hi Andy I used the template that came with the book I certainly have a problem it's just as well I didn't continue fretting out the plates, it would be good to know the errors?

Thanks Again,

John.

[John WallettParticipant @johnwallett97180]

Looks like I will need a traditional depthing tool guys

[roy entwistleParticipant @royentwistle24699]

How many clock are you contemplating making ? Traditional depthing tools are not cheap. I would remove the wheels and pinions from the arbors and make a depthing tool similar to Wildings ( Others are available see separate thread ) Unless you could borrow one,  it might help if we new where you live ?

Roy

Edited By roy entwistle on 10/02/2017 21:18:44

Edited By roy entwistle on 10/02/2017 21:20:59

[John WallettParticipant @johnwallett97180]

Hi Roy it's taken me long enough to make this one too much time on my classic car!

I have made my profile public but I live near Ely in Cambridgeshire.

I don't know if there is anybody close to borrow from but that may be an idea?

John

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Have a look at the videos here

Very easy to make you don't need drawings. Just make sure that the body is really flat.

Russell

[John WallettParticipant @johnwallett97180]

Roy sorry I forgot to say thank you!!

I have done all the calculations and none are relevant to the plan so it is a case of not cutting anymore out of the plates until I can do the measurements correctly.

[John WallettParticipant @johnwallett97180]

Another thing I have found is the pattern of the rear cut out for the Pallet if you superimpose it on the front they do not line up at all!! I may get the latest book just to see if there any differences?

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

We featured Glenn Bunt's clock depthing tool in MEW 227 & 228.

Neil

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

The John Wilding type is much easier to make!

Russell.

[John WallettParticipant @johnwallett97180]

Thanks Neil I think I will subscribe to the MEW I used to take it "years" ago.

As I have fitted the wheels to the Arbors Russel I will have to use the conventional gauge.

John.

[Marcus BowmanParticipant @marcusbowman28936]

I have the same book, but it shows different dimensions. Are you using an up to date copy? My copy is date d1998.

From the full-size plan, measurements for centre distances (sadly, in old units) starting from the barrel arbor are shown as:

3.25inches, 1&17/32inches (which is the dimension that is troubling you, I think), 1&5/32, 1&3/32, 1&3/32

John Wilding is very helpful and, in my experience, responds to letters. I do not have an up to date address, since he moved, but you might be able to contact him through RiteTime, or the British Horological Institute (of which he is a member. He had an article published in this month's BHI Journal.)

Marcus

[Author]

Posts