What Did You Do Today 2020

[Peter SpinkParticipant @peterspink21088]

Hi Martin,

This: LINK is the bore scope.

And this is the business end as installed.

This bore scope may not be the best to use in this instance as the last 1M cable at the camera end is semi rigid – a more flexible lead may be preferable but I had this to hand.
However, the advantage of this particular one is that the camera and leds are in a metal tube about 30mm long which the M3 grub screws bear on, giving a tight grip on the camera end. (Right angle mirror supplied just unscrews)

There are lots of these cameras around so maybe other options to experiment with but not sure whether they have metal tubes around the camera rather than plastic which wouldn't be so good for the grub screws to bear on.

Just noticed that the software is available as a stand alone so doesn't need Mach 3 installed – will check that out tomorrow.

Rgds, Peter

[Joseph Noci 1Participant @josephnoci1]

Evening Peter. Not to change direction too much but could you tell me what you use as interface tween Mach3 and the machine – parallel port or a dedicated motion controller?

Joe

[Peter SpinkParticipant @peterspink21088]

Hi Joe,

Not using Mach 3 to control the machine at all. Just using it with the camera software plug in!

As I said I've just noticed the camera software is available as a stand alone so will check it out.

Peter

[Joseph Noci 1Participant @josephnoci1]

Ok Peter – I understood you first thought the camera plugin required MACH3 , and I thought that you were therefore using MACH3 on the machine… Sorry, my mistake.

Joe

[ianjParticipant @ians]

When using a plunger type DTI on the lathe I use to just clamp it by the lug on the back in a QCT holder of course it was on it's side, not ideal. Today finally got around to making some thing better after spotting a 3D printed one on ebay. I machined it from Alluminum.Works just fine.

Ian

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, today I used a rusty old cutter that was my fathers, to my knowledge, it hasn't been used for 60 years or more. I first gave it a bit of a clean with a wire brush and then removed the rust from the inside edge of each cutting face with a diamond file. This cutter has edges that are parallel with the shank and 20 degrees inclusive, outwards from the shank centre line and cuts a 10 degree bevel. You'll se what I mean in the photo below if I haven't explained it very well. I had my doubts that it would be of much success, but it would save me a lot of setting up to cut a bevel on opposite sides of a short piece of steel if it was. However, I was pleasantly surprised at how well it worked without any complaining and found the finish very satisfactory and accurate to the correct angle.

You can see in the above photo, how the cutting edge on the right hand side, is slightly rusted a little out of shape.

With both sides being successfully cut, I could then proceed with the job, which needed two holes drilled and tapped M6.

The piece was then removed and bolted to the edge of a 1 2 3 block with the bevelled edge in contact with the block, using the tapped holes and the part which was held in the vice was cut off with a slitting saw, firstly half way though from the side shown below.

The cut was then finished from the other side and shows exactly how the cut off piece landed at the end of the cut.

The cut was then trimmed down to size with an end mill and the pattern shows that it is at satisfactory size.

Just need to give it a trial fit in the slot, before separating the two tapped holes.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 27/04/2020 21:56:43

[Martin King 2Participant @martinking2]

Posted by ian j on 26/04/2020 20:29:34:

When using a plunger type DTI on the lathe I use to just clamp it by the lug on the back in a QCT holder of course it was on it's side, not ideal. Today finally got around to making some thing better after spotting a 3D printed one on ebay. I machined it from Alluminum.Works just fine.

Ian

Hi Ian, was the one on EBay a red one by any chance? Like your alloy one very much!

My 3D ones have sold quite well for my first attempt at 3D.

Cheers, Martin

[Anonymous]

Screwcut my first tapered thread, 3/8" BSPT, so 19tpi and Whitworth form with rounded crests and roots, for blowdown plugs. This is the trial, in brass, rather than expensive bronze:

Ok, but not perfect, I need to do a bit more fine tuning of the technique.

Andrew

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

So did you use a taper turning attachment or set the copy unit to follow an angled template and full form cutter?

[Joseph Noci 1Participant @josephnoci1]

Or CNC?

[Anonymous]

Posted by JasonB on 29/04/2020 06:54:05:

So did you use a taper turning attachment or set the copy unit to follow an angled template and full form cutter?

A proper taper turning accessory was made for my lathe, that allowed the cross slide to be adjusted with the dial whilst also turning a taper. However, complete sets don't come up for sale very often and are silly expensive. So I used the hydraulic copy unit with a hand filed template:

The insert is indeed full form and is specifically for BSPT, not just plain old BSPP. The angle on the template isn't too critical as the mating bushes in the boiler are BSPP, rather than a matching BSPT thread.

A CNC lathe would be a nice to have. But the hobby level machines without live tooling and servo controlled spindles don't really offer me anything that I can't do with the hydraulic copy unit and repetition lathe.

Andrew

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Thank's Andrew, I was going to ask if the insert needed to be set to the lathe axis or parallel to the taper but I guess the special profile takes care of that. Did you start with parallel stock as you mentioned elsewhare?

[larry phelan 1Participant @larryphelan1]

What I did today was to make two weights for my 5 ton flypress using two empty dog food tins from Aldi, 1,2 kg size.

When fitted with a sq core, to suit the spike on the top of the press, these tins hold almost 9kg of lead each, more than enough for me to lift up. . Not very pretty but they work very well.

One could also use two old 2kg fire extinguishers which have a nice round base [which later becomes the top ]

These units are about 4 1/4 " dia and when cut off about 4 1/2 " and the cut end blanked off, will hold even more lead and do look a bit better. Sad to say I had only one and needed to use the press, so needs must !

Not grade A stuff, I know, but I,m still learning.

All comments good or bad welcome.

[Anonymous]

Posted by JasonB on 29/04/2020 12:28:43:

I was going to ask if the insert needed to be set to the lathe axis or parallel to the taper but I guess the special profile takes care of that. Did you start with parallel stock as you mentioned elsewhare?

IIRC there was a discussion here some while back as to whether the thread form on a tapered thread was perpendicular to the axis or to the taper. I'm happy that's it's to the axis; especially for BSP which can mate with a parallel thread.

I can't see much difference between a 19W insert (lower) and a 3/8" BSPT insert (upper):

Other than, possibly, the trailing crest curve. The difference in height between successive crests for a 3/8" BSPT thread is about 1.6 thou aka not a lot.

I started with a parallel cylinder, worked fine. I've made a CAD model of the plug so I know what the maximum thread diameter needs to be allowing for some stick out past the gauge line. I just turned the cylinder to the maximum diameter, give or take half a thou.

Andrew

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

I've cracked a problem I had mounting the boiler in the chassis of my miniature steam-wagon.

The space between the chassis rails is 5 inches wider than the vertical cylindrical firebox (ignoring lagging, for which I have allowed half-inch thickness), so the boiler has to rest in a sub-frame which I am also making as the boiler's lifting-cradle.

Whilst also trying to think ahead of such matters as pipe-runs, including the option to fit a super-heater with the pipes hidden as much as possible under the lagging – the prototype fed its compound engine, hot wet fluff through a prominent pipe rising from a globe-valve regulator on the firebox crown.

Lots of modifications, lots of bits of angle-steel yet to be " tiddlified " from their present all-angular shapes; one bit modified further to clear a ball-joint on the Ackermann steering. The cosmetic trimmings come once their functional aspects are established.

'

There is a particular personal aspect to this.

I had been working all last week, up to Sunday evening, on the travelling-hoist for the workshop.

On Monday morning I heard of the death of a fellow model-engineering club member whom I realised had been a friend for longer than any others I know; since the time we had both been teenaged Junior Members.

He and I both embarked on our rather ambitious projects at around the same time – mine being a hopelessly over-ambitious attempt to build the steam-wagon at 6-inch scale. (Eventually I started again at the more sensible 4-inch – but still taking far too long.)

Later on Monday afternoon I put aside the hoist parts and resumed work on the wagon. It gave me some solace but more to the point, working on that rather than anything else seemed a fitting farewell.

[Anthony KnightsParticipant @anthonyknights16741]

My metal order finally arrived from M-machine. TNT managed to lose the first consignment. It was last heard of in Stoke (which is quite a long way from North Yorkshire) and has now apparently disappeared into a black hole. M-machine very kindly sent the order again and it arrived the following day. The order comprises two 50x50mm x 12" bars, one mild steel, the other cast iron. I will be cutting a chunk off the cast iron bar to complete the ball turner attachment for my mini lathe. Watch this space.

[WindyParticipant @windy30762]

Am at the stage of making the countershaft for my big flash steam project had a friend from my speed scene offered to rough out the shape on his industrial CNC machine from one lump of Aluminium.

Have decided to fabricate it myself It will be lighter and certainly material price a lot cheaper.

I bought an Aldi bandsaw apart from the crap vice which I did a simple modification to which helped clamping.

Will eventually replace with an improved vice.

The amount of steel and aluminium with the original bandsaw blade I have cut has been worth me getting it.

The video is not good but shows it cutting at near the limit of the size it will take.

That lump of aluminium Its cutting is for part of the countershaft body.

After years of hand power cutting sometimes large lumps of material this small bandsaw has been a Godsend.

**LINK**

.

Edited By Windy on 30/04/2020 10:39:52

[Henry BrownParticipant @henrybrown95529]

Windy, your link didn't work!

I have one of the Aldi band saws and would be interested in the vise mod, I'm well pleased with mine, its almost paid its self back in the amount of hacksaw blades I haven't broken…

[roy entwistleParticipant @royentwistle24699]

Windy The link didn't work for me either

[Anthony KnightsParticipant @anthonyknights16741]

The ball turning attachment is now finished. Here it is fitted to the lathe.

Now I've got some big chunky metal I'll be making a few toolpost attachments. Next one will probably be a slotting tool which I have drawings for.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by roy entwistle on 30/04/2020 11:55:28:

Windy The link didn't work for me either

.

It appears to be a link to Facebook … which then advises:

You must log in to continue.

MichaelG.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Anthony Knights on 30/04/2020 17:38:11:

The ball turning attachment is now finished. Here it is fitted to the lathe.

.

That’s very tidy, and nicely ‘purposeful’

MichaelG.

[Anonymous]

Made, and fitted, a new toolpost clamp for my hydraulic copy unit from EN8. I also worked out how to use the micrometer adjustment feature from information kindly supplied on this forum. Tomorrow I'll have another go at making a tapered plug and see if I can get the gauge line in the right place this time.

Andrew

[Iain DownsParticipant @iaindowns78295]

On Tuesday I ordered a new vice and some 000 toolholders from ARC. Today they arrived, despite dire warnings of long delivery on the website. Thank you, Ketan.

The toolholders are an embarrassment. I confessed in another post that I ordered the wrong sort from China. I don't know if ARC have dropped the price or just that I'm an idiot, but Ketan's are barely more expensive than the cheap chinese ones. And of course they are the right sort, if not I can return them without a mortgage and they arrived in 1/10th the time. Moron.

I took advice here on the vice to buy and it was hard NOT to buy the ARC Versatile milling vice. I opted for the 5 inch, which is, well, solid.

and

The little one isn't quite sure if it should snuggle up to it's (very) big brother or creep quietly away before it's beaten up!

I have one tiny problem/question.

There's block you can screw on the underside which fits perfectly into the middle slot. 14mm and it is spot on. Should make taking the vice on and off very easy and avoid having to clock the vice in.

However, (and you knew there was a however), there's about 0.1mm difference across the width of the jaw. I've clocked the slot and there is around 0.02mm difference in the same area.

So I have two questions:-

1) Is this reasonable? Frankly, I would have been delighted to get this accuracy with a vice aligned by tapping, however, this is a step up so perhaps I should expect better?

2) if it's reasonable to look to a better alignment against the keyway, is there any sensible way of tuning this?

By the way, you can see I've taken the rotary base off. That would be one way of getting 'perfect' alignment, but I don't see a particular value in the swivel aspect of the vice.

And, this is not a complaint. I've done a bit of milling with this and I can already see that this vice is going to make a lot of things a great deal easier!

Iain

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Ian, can I suggest you start a new thread about the vice rather than answers get lost in this one. I'll take some pics of what I did to the 80mm one tomorrow and post.

[Author]

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