chester model b super

[david coyneParticipant @davidcoyne69923]

hi there has anyone got a chester model b super  lathe as i would like some advice as i have just bought one  pleas can you help thanks Dave

[david coyneParticipant @davidcoyne69923]

[Martin WParticipant @martinw]

Dave

 

Have you looked at or asked this question on the Chester UK site forum. There are a number of people there who use the Model B and will have experience. Not only that but there are several threads that are specific to Model B.

 

It might be worth posting something similar there if you haven’t already done so . Hopefully this link forum should get you there and look under the heading Multi Purpose Machines.

 

Cheers

 

 

Martin

 

Edited so many times cause I have got dyslexic fingers again .

Edited By Martin W on 28/08/2010 18:29:17

Edited By Martin W on 28/08/2010 18:31:20

Edited By Martin W on 28/08/2010 18:33:20

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Posted by Martin W on 28/08/2010 18:25:37:

Martin

 

Edited so many times cause I have got dyslexic fingers again .

Edited By Martin W on 28/08/2010 18:29:17

Edited By Martin W on 28/08/2010 18:31:20

Edited By Martin W on 28/08/2010 18:33:20

 .

 

Funny that. I have a dyslexic keyboard ?

 

John S.

[Martin WParticipant @martinw]

John

 

Your keyboard and my fingers and we have a new engineering language.

 

All the best

 

Martin

[Stewart HartParticipant @stewarthart90345]

Hi David

 

I’ve had a model B for over 10 years now, and have managed to produce some good work, but like all machine tools it has its good and bad points.

 

The worst thing with it is the lack of rigidity in the mill head, you have to try and keep your sets ups as short as possible don’t over extend the quill, take small cuts 1/2mm is about the max in steel. About 18 months ago I bought a small mill, and took the mill head off blanking off the hole left and now just use it as a lathe, which I think is great.

 

Best part about the lathe function is its huge swing though it hasn’t got the torque to turn anything really big, but it gives you plenty of room to workaround, Thread cutting up to a shoulder is not easy with a minimum speed of 90 rpm, but I get round this by running the lathe in reverse and with the tool at the back, cut from the shoulder out. The drive belts as supplied are crap I wore them out in just a few months, replaced them with a standard belt from my engineer supplier that I’m still using.

 

I’ve done a few mods:- fitted a vertical DRO to the mill which added to its accuracy greatly. Added some grub screws to the tail stop quill that engage with drill tangs so can take heavier cuts. Added thrust bearing to the cross slide lead screw reducing back lash greatly with a smoother action and greater repeatability.

 

Having said all that the most inportant thing is to try and get the best out of your machine as you can and to enjoy your model engineering

 

Her’s a few pics of what I’ve made

 

 Cheers

 

Stew

 

 

Edited By Stewart Hart on 02/09/2010 07:30:26

[Rob WhightParticipant @robwhight73692]

Stewart,

Any clues on the specs of the drive belts ? Whilst mine do have a few numbers on them (they are the original ones I got with the machine), I can't seem to find a suitable one on the web.

Cheers,

Rob

[Stewart HartParticipant @stewarthart90345]

Hi Rob

No Idea about ref number

I took mine along to my local engineer suppliers and asked for an equivalent they put it on gauge that measured the circumference and handed a Ferodo one over fit perfect been on the machine for 6 years now.

Stew

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