My Toyo ML1

No worries Mike,

Of course I don't mind, it was kind of address to anyone can give advice. I am really just a rookie here.

Perhaps I should remove the @ someone in the next message. It's an open forum anyway .

btw, I'm quite impressed Pete was mentioning boring it out to 9mm - 10mm. Well, that goes to experience.

Mike, or Pete. Do you suggest I bore that with a lathe? I supposed anyone with a big enough chuck could do it.

Cheers

.

Yes, bore it in the lathe

The Toyo should be adequate if you can mount a suitably sized block of wood or plastic [do you have a faceplate for it?]

... Just bore a recess in the block and push the handwheel into it.

MichaelG.

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P.S. ... No offence taken, but I do prefer to be called Michael.

Michael sounds better actually. My apology .

That was a good idea. However, I haven't got a toolpost . I'll have to find a machinist somewhere here.

Now I wonder why you would want two lathe

By the way, I'm in Australia.

I tried to take out the drill chuck today, wedge a piece of timber behind the chuck and whack it with a mallet (By the way, is that the right way of removing the chuck?). The tailstock spindle slides out, so I just spin the rest of the barrel out. Now the chuck is still attached to the spindle.

No promises, but: That looks rather like it might be a "self-ejecting" barrel.

Try putting it back together and winding the barrel back ... it may eject the drill chuck.

... If that doesn't work before it all starts to feel wrong, stop, and we'll think again.

MichaelG.

Yes, it's a self ejecting type, but I had to 'encourage' mine because it was a bit tight. So I used an open end 13mm spanner placed over the back of the chuck taper and then angled it towards the lathe chuck so that it pushed the little chuck away from the tailstock. I then gave it an enthusiastic thump with the heel of my hand and it popped out. From then on it has worked well.

We shouldn't be hammering this little chuck into it's taper by the way, just a quick slide in to wedge it into the taper is enough. Although mine takes a 7mm drill of, I would use very light drilling pressure to avoid stalling the spindle.

Yes, your handwheel is almost fubared, with a domestic electric drill badly by the looks of it. It definitely needs to be bored and sleeved, then a fresh M6 can be tapped through.

((LOL! Forget "Through A Glass Darkly" Let's hope someone publishes "With A Domestic Electric Drill, Badly" !! ))

Here's a toolpost fron Axminster Tools that wil probably suit as it's for the Proxxon. I think that's the current, rebranded, updated, (haha ), version of the ML210.

I'd really like to have a quick release tool post and tool holders. Maybe later as I'm really skint after xmas..

I was expecting the same, I just tap it with the gentlest force and the barrel slides out a bit whilst the rest being held back by the tailstock bolt inside the tailstock. Affraid that it will damage any other threading or possible fasteners I just unscrew the entire barrel out. I guess I'll make another attempt later on after repairing the tailstock handwheel.

Pete, I am wondering if there is anything missing on my tailstock.

I include the snapshot here

I replace the tailstock bolt with a paintbrush just for an illustration.

I am wondering if there's supposed to be a bearing, spacer, or bushing apart from the tailstock handwheel.

and is there anything else behind the space of the retaining ring, or in front of the retaining ring since I only have the handwheel that screws into the bolt (paintbrush).

>> On the side, I met a friendly machinist today who is also an electrician repairing coffee machine. He is happy to do the boring and threading for me. And he also happen to know this Toyo lathe .

So, I'm really stoked as he seems to be very passionate about lathe.

He is the one inquiring if there's any bearing on the tailstock. I'm not sure if the ML-1 manual will go this far in detail about the tailstock assemblage. I am wondering if bearing, or spacer can be added to improve the performance.

I had a look at the toolpost at Axminster, and I try to find it here in Australia, it turns out they only have the same one that Pete bought . The one that comes with the compound slide. It's no good for me since I have minimum machining skill and machines to do any adjustment.

I might have to get the one from Axminster, although I am wondering how would it sit on the T-Slot cross slide.

is is just a nut on the T-slot, or some sort of bar, or ring. I don't know.

Have a good weekend.

Warmest greeting from Australia,

Oliver

Oliver, Is the picture above showing the back of the barrel still in the body of the tailstock or after the barrel was taken out? It looks like what is still in the hole is the 'plug that is normally hard up against the circlip. Show us a picture of all the other bits ie the handle and screw etc. Whether there is something missing depends a bit on what the screw looks like as it should have a flange on it that pushes against a plug that is held in by that circlip.

If the screw goes into a thread in the back of the barrel which is the normal design all you need is to put a shin bar into that hole against the back of the taper and tap it repeatedly, perhaps with some rusty bolt release liquid in there. It also might help to put it in the freezer for an hour then quickly heat the outside with a paint striper gun while tapping the inserted bar.

Later once freed you should always be able to release a taper by retracting the barrel which results in the screw pusing against the back of the taper. however some taper are cut short so the screw doesn't meet them. Note which ones have this problem and put in a litte spacer each time you use that tool. What is more common is the tang on the taper means it is exjected too soon so pwople then cut off the back of the taper, but can cut off too much.

Edited By Bazyle on 31/01/2015 17:16:43

Oliver, that thing inside the tailstock is a brass bush/thrust washer and that's all there is to it. It stays on one side of the circlip and stops movement in one direction and the handwheel does the other. Nice and simple, and even if we break the circlip I'm sure it'll be a stock size.

Separated. The handwheel turns this coarse left hand thread.

Here's my recommendation for your stuck chuck. (let's not forget that this is a micro lathe and the casr iron parts could be damaged by heavy handed hammering )

Soak the drill chuck and tailstock slider in whatever easing oil you have overnight at the very least. And, if you feel like it, apply a flame to the slider to heat it up, not to red hot, but hot enough so that water evaporates instantly.

Then, re-assemble your tailstock without the handwheel. Use a couple of M6 nuts and lock them together on the thread at the back. Then, wind back a bit of pressure, as if to pull the slider away from the chuck with your 10mm spanner, then put a 17 or 16mm spanner behind the chuck. Use that to lever against the chuck and tap it with a hammer at the same time.

You could also try a brass drift and a few good hefty taps at the back of the chuck.

If that doesn't work realitively easily, you'll need to make up something that looks like a ball joint splitter out of steel, which will apply more pressure as it's also a wedge shape which you will have to tap in to the join before tapping it sideways. Once again, beware ot damaging the cast iron tailstock body.

-------------

And this is my original toolpost.

There's an M5 machine screw through from the top and the heavy sleeved 'T' slot thingy measures just under 7mm at the 'neck' and has flats machined to 14mm wide on the 16mm flange. The 7mm 'neck' is 5mm long, so it's actually 2mm clear of the saddle once locked by the screw. The fat part of this one is just under 10mm to suit the hole in the post.

I'm certain that the proxxon one will be close to these sizes, and if slightly bigger, any alterations shouldn't be a problem since you've found a friendly machinist.

Oliver,

Further to Pete's excellent advice ... here's another possible approach:

Remove the barrel, as per your first photo.

Find a short length of Brass rod [with a nice flat end], that's a close sliding fit down the screw-thread.

... The rod should only need to stick out about 20mm [*], and can be held in place with a lump of BlueTack.

Hold the barrel [with chuck pointing to the stars] and strike down firmly onto some immoveable object.

... this should knock out the taper without damaging anything except the end of the rod.

MichaelG.

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[*] That's assuming your reflexes are quick enough .

... if you are worried, use a longer rod.

I couldn't thank you all enough. All this I bet is way better thumbing through the manual.

For Pete thank you for taking apart your tailstock, the good pictures, and of course your detailed explaination. Cheers.

and Michael for even more usful tips. I am happy to see this advices keep flowing in, or out, whichever way you prefer

I lubricate and knock apart (gently) what I assume was part of the cast iron body of the tailstock >> it is the Flange.

The brass part which completes the tailstock assembly.

I was lucky not to have to use any other trick other than WD40. but I'll keep in mind that heatgun, Blue Tack, or the fridge. I assume it will comes in handy.

From the photo above, what I couln't show is the bolt which holds the barrel, and the handwheel. They are with the machinist. I will tell him too that the flange in question has been found .

For the tool post, I know how it holds together now. Almost tempted to get it machined than buying and shipped here. see how I go with the handwheel and take it trom there.

I found a link for the Quick change Tool Post which peter might be interested. Yes, Christmas does drain my pocket too, but not the appetite. I'm happy to just get it running properly first.

Cheers,

Oliver

Pete,

The 'bolt' with the left hand thread looks exactly with what I have, just different colour . Mine is brownish of the rust, but detail is still sharp.

Michael,

That Blue Tack can't be ignored, when I knock the spacer out, it actually flew off to the floor . Yes, need rubber mat or some sort.

Heh, those are way too expensive for aluminium parts. In my humble opinion. Why can't they just make 'em in mild steel? It'll last longer than the ally for starters and it should be cheaper as they won't need anidozing.

At Adaero Precision, we make our own work holding fixtures and vice jaws for milling , when normal plain or step vice jaws aren't suitable and special chucks and collets for turning. And I often complain when a fixture gets made in ally. Yes it's easier to machine, and we do install helicoil inserts to the threads, but the clamping faces don't last too long and we have to make another.

But yes, if all you need is a basic tool post, a made up one is super simple. in the near future, I intend to buy or make up a mini sliding vice for small milling jobs. I may even take my saddle to work and drill/ream a few dowel holes for positioning accuracy.

Looking at the pic of my tool post, it's dimensions in that view are as follows:

40 x 40 mm and 35mm across

The cut out starts at 16mm from the base is 16mm high (under the screws) and 10mm deep. Presumably for 10mm tool steel.

At the back is an 8mm through hole, 26mm up from the base, 6mm in from the back edge and paralell to the cutout. This has two short screws for clamping round shank boring bars or maybe as cigarrette holder or whatever.

Hope that helps Oliver

The central hole for the 'T' slot bolt is by no means a close fit on the bolt and no precision should be imagined when adjusting the post by this means.

- - -

Unfortunately I just measured the eccentricity of my main chuck centering (with a dial micrometer borrowed from work) and found an average 0.15mm run out at the workpiece! It's the chuck and not the spindle, so I need to think how I'm going to sort it out. I knew it was out from the first time got it home and turned something, but now I know just how bad it is.

I shall have to correct it before I go much further, as one of my tight tolerance requirements for this lathe is turning parts for propeller adapters for my RC planes. And with a prop rotating at 10000 rpm or more, any imbalances must be minimised.

Hmm, I really need a collet holder for increased accuracy.

.

Pete,

Remember that, although collets are very convenient, there are other ways of achieving concentricity:

• Start with oversize material, and turn everything at one setting [i.e. do not remove the work from the chuck until the job is complete].
• Turn between centres ... for ultimate accuracy, turn between dead centres.
• Use Shellac, on a 'Wax Chuck' [centre the work whilst the Shellac is still warm].

One or more of these methods can be adopted/adapted to suit almost any small turning job.

For some inspiration; have a look around this 'Adventures in Watchmaking' site.

MichaelG.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 02/02/2015 06:52:42

Just struck me that this is a RC enthusiast forum excuse my ignorance. Turns out to be quite a few fine folks in this forum, just like in woodworking (my trade).

I always like RC planes, but as a kid they were the luxury in toys world. Owning one was like having a Bentley.

But, I grow up, thats good news.

I watched 'Hector and the search for Happiness' last night and they were a snip of them playing RC aeroplane.

Guess if the bug bit, it will be on. Well, I'll fix the lathe first whilst find out more about this forum's hobby.

Australia is quite windy, when it's mad.. it's around 30km/h all day. but of course, not all the time

For the QCTP that I found I guess I was only lured to it because of the wording, it said Unimat, Proxxon, Sakai, etc. Material wise I agree with you. I guess some factory just spit out stuff quick out of softer material and cosmetically decorate it. They are just keeping up with current trend of things that expire quickly .

With that to say... isn't it should be cheaper?

Cheers

ps. checking run out is another thing. heheh, I honestly can't say yet that this lathe I got is running well.

Aluminium can be hardened/toughened and a deep anodized layer will be harder still, but it isn't steel after all is said and done.

Edited By Pete Gilbert 1 on 02/02/2015 20:56:20

Not sure where in Aus you're located, but Andrew Newton is an epic maker and flier down in Victoria, where it always seems to be windy! He doesn't seem to do scale planes or much balsa wood stuff. Foam rules!!

I agree with everything you've said except the shellac stuff. I've never heard of that till now. But it's verrrry interesting and I've found this thread on homemodelenginemachinist.com And now that I've seen it, I agree with that too! I can see the benefits!!

Thanks for opening my eyes Michael. I owe you one!

Edited By Pete Gilbert 1 on 02/02/2015 21:21:57

Check out this "Info" page I just found on the Home Model Engine Machinist website.

wow...

it's a whole new world to me.

this looks like a seriously addictive stuff!

Thanks for all the links.

Cheers

Had a chat with my machinist today. Asking him questions about lathe etc..

Turns out he also recomends.. guess what: Model-engineer magazine. Small world.

Well, he is a bit busy at the moment. So, hopefully by a week something will show up.

I'll post it here again.