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Brian's 1" Minnie Traction Engine

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Brian Abbott23/09/2019 16:07:00
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448 forum posts
82 photos

Thanks for the replies chaps, does look offset but as there is no dimension i would imagine it’s just how it was drawn, anyway i’m going with equal about just to keep the wheel jig the same for both sides, thanks again

Nigel, see your point regarding having a clearance hole, i am not brave enough to key the eccentric, i have found an article in the model engineer that explains how to set the timing using a DTI so am going to try that method if i live long enough....

Brian Abbott18/11/2019 23:57:30
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448 forum posts
82 photos

Hello all.

More help needed,

When i made the rear wheels i soldered the hub and spokes using cup alloy soft solder paste, after doing this and for some time afterwards i suffered from rust around the joint.

I am about to solder the front hubs, is there a better way of doing this ?

Is soft solder paste the best option, would silver solder ( paste or rod ) need to much heat ?

Could glue with an epoxy but don't really want to do this.

Thanks for any help.

Raymond Griffin21/11/2019 13:35:32
53 forum posts
38 photos

wp_20170504_14_43_38_pro.jpgHi Brian, I was worried about flux residues causing corrosion when making wheels for my Minnie. I decided to use JB Weld resin. The long setting time allowed me to ensure that everything was correctly placed. It worked well, and I can see no advantage in using solder. I add a photo of my rear wheels during construction. The wheel is mounted on a flat, circular plate that could be rotated around a central spigot.

Have you managed to set the valve sequences on your Minnie? I am finding it very difficult and tiresome as the eccentrics are not easy to manipulate.

Cheers Ray

Brian Abbott21/11/2019 22:34:57
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448 forum posts
82 photos

Hello Ray.

Not thought of JB weld, will have a think about that.

How strong does it set ?

Not ready to set the eccentric yet, need to drill the exhaust port into the cyclinder but have held off until i fit the chimney base, am sure when the time comes i will fail.

Front wheels progressing ok, fingers crossed i will have it on its wheel soon.

img_9865.jpg

derek blake23/11/2019 21:49:20
556 forum posts
140 photos

Coming along nicely Brian, good work

Brian Abbott26/11/2019 13:06:38
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448 forum posts
82 photos

Thank you Derek.

Just waiting for some more 10ba bolts to arrive, i can then bolt everything tight and check for true.

Riveting and soldering then.

img_9899[1].jpg

derek blake26/11/2019 17:00:13
556 forum posts
140 photos

Out of interest what part gets soldered? I bet that’s hard to keep neat.

derek blake26/11/2019 17:00:45
556 forum posts
140 photos

Wheels look lovely and neat.

Brian Abbott27/11/2019 22:54:34
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448 forum posts
82 photos

Hello Derek.

There are inner and outer covers which get soldered onto the hubs, fixes everything together.
When I soldered the rear hubs I used a soft solder paste, worked ok but i had an issue with corrosion from the flux.

It has been suggested that I try an epoxy glue instead of solder but I’m not sure.

Slight change of plan at the moment as I forgot to cut the slots that imitate the tyre tread so that’s next on the list, then solder them up.

derek blake28/11/2019 09:09:13
556 forum posts
140 photos

Hi Brian

yes I would probably you epoxy myself, as flux can seep out over time but I’m no expert.

i look forward to the updates, keep them coming,

Derek

George Jervis11/12/2019 09:50:19
76 forum posts
42 photos

Hi everyone

Just wondering when you build the rear wheels is it best to rivet the strakes on first or do the spoke and hubs first?

George

JasonB11/12/2019 10:20:15
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18312 forum posts
2024 photos
1 articles

Strakes first while it is easy to get to the rivits

Brian Abbott11/12/2019 12:12:30
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448 forum posts
82 photos

I did mine before, as Jason said it's just easier.

minnie (14).jpg

Raymond Griffin11/12/2019 13:22:41
53 forum posts
38 photos

Hi Brian, I don’t have the expertise to compare the relative merits of solder versus JB Weld. It seemed to me that the joints are not heated or highly stressed and are riveted. For me, joining metals with epoxy has always been successful provided that the resin is well mixed, the surfaces to be joined are roughened and that the components are kept warm to facilitate polymerization. I have seen other reports or flux residue causing corrosion.

Your wheels look nicely made. Ray

Brian Abbott11/12/2019 22:46:25
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448 forum posts
82 photos

Well i've done it now.

Decided to stay true to Mr Masons book and soldered the first one.

Time will tell.

111.jpg

George Jervis17/12/2019 17:31:42
76 forum posts
42 photos

Hi everyone,

I am about to start making the front wheel hubs and cannot for the life of me find the information and measurement for them? I have the book by L C Mason and the original plans for the 1in minnie but find they a vague. Looking through the box of casting I have I have identified almost every item I need but not sure if these are the casting for the hubs?

George

My picture is he my album and I'm not sure how to put it on here thank you

JasonB17/12/2019 17:36:30
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Moderator
18312 forum posts
2024 photos
1 articles

can't see the pic in your album but thought they were just cut from brass bar. Page 106 has the drawings

 

EDIt, Seen the photo now you have uploaded it and yest they will turn into the front wheel hubs, all three bits in one casting for each wheel.

Edited By JasonB on 17/12/2019 20:39:00

George Jervis17/12/2019 21:30:33
76 forum posts
42 photos

Hi Jason B,

That makes sense now, I'd asked a couple of friends what they would be for and they were not sure either, But now I can see how they will be made

Thank you for your help

George

derek blake17/12/2019 21:34:43
556 forum posts
140 photos

Very nice work Brian.

Jeff Dayman17/12/2019 22:46:08
1830 forum posts
45 photos

Wheels are looking great Brian!

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