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how free moving or not

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terry callaghan11/06/2014 13:44:41
213 forum posts
8 photos

hi chaps. I am about to but together the wheels, cylinders and motion of my B1 and have a few questions. First how free running should the motion be. should I be able to turn over the wheels freely once in the frames. should I still be able to turn over the motion and wheels freely by hand. I have had a trial fit and could not get the wheels to turn over by hand and it was a total no go with the connecting rods in place. so how free should it be.

second question. whats the best way to set the timing on a B1. I just want to be sure I have all the bits in the right way. michael

Jo11/06/2014 14:25:15
198 forum posts

The wheels should spin if you flick them without the motion in place. With the connecting rods in place they should easily go round.

Rule of thumb is that all joints should be free enough that there is space for the oil, if they are tight then "the oil won't fit".


terry callaghan12/06/2014 17:09:10
213 forum posts
8 photos

Thanks for that, looks like I need to take a cut on the bearings. michael

Clive Hartland12/06/2014 17:50:08
2612 forum posts
40 photos

You need to put the right size Reamer through both bearings while they are in position, this will align them correctly. You mention that when you put the cranks on it will not turn? Here you will have to give a fair clearance in the crank bearings and ensure that the crank bearing holes have the same distance as the pins on the wheels! If not you will get binding.


terry callaghan12/06/2014 18:58:50
213 forum posts
8 photos

thanks clive. lots like the job will take a bit longer to sort out. michael

Neil Wyatt12/06/2014 20:55:55
18316 forum posts
718 photos
77 articles

It took me a couple of evenings to get my 0-4-0 right, and I had to remake eccentric bushes for one connecting rod to give a few thou more length. Take your time, I learned not to rush it the hard way!


alan-lloyd13/06/2014 11:14:58
170 forum posts

I think the best way to get the crankpin centres correct is to make a jig to fit the axle box holes then transfer this to the coupling rods. anyway too late now as its all quartered and glued , I agree with Neil you will now have to mess around making eccentric bushes, good luck, Alan

stan pearson 113/06/2014 22:28:18
135 forum posts
2 photos

I do exactly that Alan, I only quarter the main pair of driving wheels, all engines have a Master rod which is solid and has two crank pin bushes in it, this rod can be made on a simple jig then use the jig to drill the vertical joints to exact axle centres then assemble the rods Loctite the wheels and use the rods to quarter them, had no problems with any of my 8 loco`s.



terry callaghan14/06/2014 20:40:58
213 forum posts
8 photos

hi chaps. thanks for the input. had a play around today and took a cut off the axles. The wheels in the frame and with one connecting rod for all three axles fitted to both sides the wheels turn OK, still need a bit of a push but do go round OK. I must say that at this point is it worth fitting real bearings to the axle boxes. This will free up the motion and reduce wear. If so can anyone point me to a good bearing supplier. it would be a pity to go to all the extra work and fit cheap far east bearings. michael

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