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How to machine a flywheel ?

Correct positioning on the face plate.

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Ian S C25/05/2016 15:26:45
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7468 forum posts
230 photos

dsc01251 (1024x768).jpgSorry for the delay Brian, here's a split bush on a 1/4" crankshaft to fit a flywheel with a 3/8" hole.

Edited By Ian S C on 25/05/2016 15:27:57

mechman4825/05/2016 22:10:24
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2746 forum posts
422 photos

As those with a Warco machines will know the face plate supplied is a huge chunk of cast iron, weighing in at 5 kilo's, far to big for most of us to have whizzing round at any substantial speed so I made a 'sub faceplate' for my lathe when I needed to machine the flywheel for my 'Educational model' engine; it is 6" dia' from an old bench drill table that was in the 'for later' box. The boss on the back was machined to true up dings & dints & then I set it up, marked where the #1 jaw was for consistent location, skimmed the face & rim for concentricity, made up a draw bar for secure fixing to 3 jaw chuck, drilled & tapped a few 6mm holes for starters. I now have a small faceplate that I can drill & tap more holes to suit any particular job, or even small slots if needed. Holes/slots will be diametrically opposite for better balancing of course.

Rod Neep's solution of a Unimat faceplate is another good idea, may look at doing the same myself, but for the mo' my creation suits. No doubt there are numerous other ideas which will be just as effective...

Skimming the OEM boss on the plate...

Educational model faceplate (3).jpg

A few tapped holes...

sub face plate (3).jpg

 

Here I'm using it to machine the S10V standard...

alternative faceplate mounting (4).jpg

Educational model fly wheel...

educational model flywheel (2).jpg

George

 

 

Edited By mechman48 on 25/05/2016 22:20:41

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