|9 forum posts|
I have been given a myford super 7 with a lot of tooling, I am currently sorting all the tools out and have across a Archer no 1 self rev tapping head it looks nearly complete apart from the bar to stop the body turning.
Are these any good ?
|jason udall||27/02/2014 17:54:53|
|2011 forum posts|
|17 forum posts|
Re Archer tapper. I have one and have produced a sub table with about 15 m6 holes in 20mm thick cast iron.
I have no information on its use and gone along on trial and error. It works well,Iuse it on a pillar drill, there is a horizontal rod that engages the drill column, Iuse a piece of galv. wire to prevent it swinging back on reverse.
I' look it out and take a picture of it and try to post it in the next day or so
hope that helps
|jonathan heppel||01/03/2014 09:08:40|
|99 forum posts|
They're great if you have a repeat job like the one above, but for only a few not really worth setting up. I took mine apart and put the tap chuck and friction clutch on a direct morse shank to power tap in the lathe. Best used with machine taps of course.
|Nigel McBurney 1||05/03/2014 22:10:33|
610 forum posts
During my apprenticeship many moons ago ,the was an archer tapper used mainly on 3/8 Whit holes in cast iron and another tapper called a Pawson for smaller taps, The Pawson was nice to use the body was twice the diameter of the Archer and may have accounted for its soft action ie larger diameter clutches ,the action of the Archer clutches was fierce and the friction safety clutch could stick and break taps I never did like using it,best to clamp the work or use a heavy machine vice to hold the work down, In recent years I was given a small brand new Archer 1/4 capacity tap holder which is smaller than a proper tapper and just holds the tap securely without slip and incorporates a safety clutch plus a morse taper shank, at least it stops the age old problem of taps slipping in a Jacobs chuck when tapping in the lathe.
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