magnetic or glass
|1038 forum posts|
A few pics of the dro's on my gh1330
Edited By CoalBurner on 31/01/2014 12:45:52
|Mick Dobson||31/01/2014 14:51:29|
|21 forum posts|
Here's another take on installing a cross slide DRO to a GH1330 lathe. (Actually it's not a Warco, but a 1997 spec Chester of the same type, when they were painted green and before they started selling the grey paint spec machines. Has been a good machine.)
My method has the DRO situated beyond the end of the cross slide. It enables the tailstock to still be moved right up to the back of the saddle, also it keeps the DRO working parts well away from swarf and coolant.
The long plate extension screwed to the top of the cross slide supports the DRO scale, which effectively moves with the cross slide. The DRO pick up comprising the wiring lead is fixed to a bracket projecting from the back of the saddle. It has proved to be a highly effective and very rigid set up.
The only downside is that I had to move the lathe slightly further away from the wall and also modify the rear splash guard to suit.
For issues on lathes where the cross slide gib adjustment screws would be compromised, situating the DRO at the end like this would solve that problem too.
On the saddle DRO, mine too is at the back, like that shown on Coalburner's lathe. I added a further swarf guard above the DRO body as a second line of defence, although the DRO seal strip is at the underside anyway so should be fine.
|The Merry Miller||31/01/2014 15:20:17|
484 forum posts
Sorry for nor replying sooner about the lamps on my mill.
The ones fitted either side of the vertical head are 20w 12v halogen with flexible necks, clamp type base and obviously their own PSU's.
Homebase were having a sale sometime last year and I bought four for £6 each.
|paul rayner||31/01/2014 20:23:47|
|160 forum posts|
thats a good idea for the cross slide
I will have a think about that one
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