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3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH

Construction of TICH according to the words and music by LBSC

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MK12/06/2015 10:11:55
24 forum posts
20 photos

That looks great Ryan

Great idea of using the washer to locate the holes. I still have to drill the holes in the rear covers.

Ryan Norton22/06/2015 14:20:29
190 forum posts
774 photos

Here are another two views of the assembly, front and back.

34 front all screwed up.jpg

33 all screwed up.jpg

I then made a small jig to cut the screws to the correct length and file the chamfers etc.

These are the results:

35 front with screws cut.jpg

36 screws cut short rear covers.jpg

Here is a close up of the threaded valve and piston gland bosses and guide bar holes:

37 close up of the threaded gland bosses and guide bar holes.jpg

Ryan Norton24/06/2015 07:34:11
190 forum posts
774 photos

Last night I cut some gaskets for the steam chest and cylinder interface. I have used 1/64 inch thick brown cardboard, that type we get as a backing on our exam pads here in SA. Should work a treat.

Here are two photos with the dry gaskets fitted. I will add the steam oil when I do the final assembly:

38 cylinder and steam shest gaskets.jpg

39 cylinder and steam chest gaskets.jpg

I have also finally managed to anneal my outer wrapper copper and formed it to the boiler form.

001 boiler.jpg

002 boiler.jpg

003 boiler.jpg

004 boiler.jpg

005 boiler.jpg

006 boiler.jpg

007 boiler.jpg

Ryan Norton08/07/2015 11:31:55
190 forum posts
774 photos

I did the glands for the valve spindles and piston rods for both sets of cylinders two weeks ago. Here are the results:

40 complete left cylinder.jpg

41 right cylinder with glands.jpg

42 left hand cylinder with glands.jpg

I did not have hex bar so I used normal round rod. I will machine spanner grooves or drill some holes to suit a micrometer wrench later maybe, not sure if i really need it?

I have also been copper smithing and finally made more progress on the boiler.

008 boiler.jpg

Above you can see the strap for the butt joint along the length of the barrel. I was going to place this inside but discussions at the club have lead me to believe it will be easier to braze if placed on the outside, so that's what ill do. I have included the two scrap throat plates in the pic as I am baffled. I made the first one and it ended up being too narrow, I thought I had made a measuring error, but when I double checked the measurement on the second one and the same result was obtained I could not believe it... I ended up adding an extra two millimeters to the width between the bend lines and it worked. (I still don't understand this)...

009 boiler.jpg

Here the throat plate is clamped to the wrapper and the internal semi-circle traced onto the throat plate.

010 boiler.jpg

Here is the throat plate after removal.

011 boiler.jpg

012 boiler.jpg

Here is the throat plate in place with some of the rivets that will be used.

Ryan Norton09/07/2015 09:54:26
190 forum posts
774 photos

Last night I cut out the throat plate and drilled the holes for the rivets in the strap and wrapper.

013 boiler.jpg

014 boiler.jpg

015 boiler.jpg

Ryan Norton10/07/2015 07:47:50
190 forum posts
774 photos

I did the final fitting of the throat plate last night and drilled the rivet holes.

Now to make some rivet dollies and formers and Ill be on my way to having a wrapper ready for brazing!

016 boiler.jpg

017 boiler.jpg

Excuse the bad quality of the first photo. Sorry.

Doubletop10/07/2015 09:07:08
431 forum posts
4 photos

Posted by Ryan Norton on 08/07/2015 11:31:55:

........ I ended up adding an extra two millimeters to the width between the bend lines and it worked. (I still don't understand this)...



.... And it still fits between the frames? Don't ask, it nearly happened to me but realised before applying heat.

BTW you are doing a fantastic job, it will be worth the effort


Edited By Doubletop on 10/07/2015 09:07:48

Ryan Norton10/07/2015 09:13:28
190 forum posts
774 photos

Hi Pete

Yes, the outer wrapper dimensions did not change and I have test fitted this already between the frames and it is fine. I just had the issue with the wrapper. I need to model this in Solid works and see what happens, I still cant explain how I lost the two millimeters from the wrapper when the bends are soo tight...?

Oh well, no matter, its fixed!

Thanks for the support!

MK10/07/2015 09:34:46
24 forum posts
20 photos

Looks great Ryan. A lot cleaner than my work

PDBV16/07/2015 20:14:30
28 forum posts
7 photos

Hi Ryan,

Thats some great progress youve made there ive been following this all the way, (whilst also building a tich 😀

Have you done the springs for the axle boxes yet ? If so what did you use and where from ?



Ryan Norton17/07/2015 08:25:30
190 forum posts
774 photos

HI Pete>>

I have done the springs, you can see them in some of the first photos I placed on this post.>>

I used 0.8 mm piano wire from the local hobby shop. I used the screw cutting function on the Myford to wind the springs at a specific pitch. To be honest I am not extremely satisfied with them or the setup described by LBSC, but it works.>>

If I were to do it again or modify this design I would use the method whereby the axle boxes have two rods screwed into their bottom ends, protruding through the hornstays. See pic below.


axle box.jpg

I think this is a much nicer looking setup than the proposed design. I am just not sure if there is enough space for it?

Ryan Norton17/07/2015 08:27:38
190 forum posts
774 photos

Here is a picture of all of the blobs

19 bits and bobs.jpg


The springs were made on the lathe using piano wire and the screw cutting train on the lathe. The TPI was guessed really, but it seems to work...



Edited By Ryan Norton on 17/07/2015 08:28:06

Robin King17/07/2015 09:54:44
111 forum posts
1 photos

FWIW - my Tich, built by a late friend of mine, has the springs below the axleboxes. In use they are a real pain due to the minimal clearance over the track, and I'm now looking at replacing them with coil springs above the boxes, as LBSC's design.

PDBV17/07/2015 10:35:43
28 forum posts
7 photos

Hi Ryan,

Thanks for the info, managed to find some made to fit the tich on glr's website so that will save me making some



Ryan Norton17/07/2015 11:15:41
190 forum posts
774 photos

Hi Robin

I thought there may be an issue with that...

Pete, glad you are sorted.

Does anyone have plans or pictures of a simple driving car for Tich?

Please let me know/ send pics etc.


PDBV21/07/2015 21:42:38
28 forum posts
7 photos

Hi Ryan,

Cant help with the driving truck unfortunately,

I do have another question though, when forming the flanges on the outer skin of the bulk head (not sure of its propper name) for the boiler do they have to be spliced so that they bend round the 90 degree?

I hope you understand what im on about, i think i do but only just haha, i can visualise what i mean but cant turn it into words haha



Ryan Norton22/07/2015 08:21:58
190 forum posts
774 photos

HI Pete

I assume you are talking about the firebox tube and door plates? If not, I do not think it matters, either way you do not need to "splice" the corners. You will need to anneal the copper a number of times when bending the flanges and hammering them around the corners. As soon as the copper starts to buckle, you will need to re- anneal. I have just done my firebox tube plate and it needed about 6 "annealings" before it was finally done.

Ryan Norton22/07/2015 08:23:52
190 forum posts
774 photos

Here are some pics of the flue tubes being marked out as well as in place in the firebox tube plate.

018 marking flue tubes.jpg

019 flue tubes in place.jpg

020 flue tubes in place.jpg

021 firebox tube plate with tubes in place.jpg

022 firebox tube plate.jpg

023 flue tubes and tube plate.jpg

Ryan Norton22/07/2015 08:24:51
190 forum posts
774 photos

I also managed to finally make the wrist pin for the axle driven water pump.

axle pump wrist pin.jpg

PDBV22/07/2015 15:09:40
28 forum posts
7 photos

Hi Ryan,

What you have described makes perfect sence,

I just wasnt sure if the copper would buckle even when annealed

Thanks for your help

Your progress is brilliant, i have just recieved my 7BA taps (for the steam chest) in the post this morning now im ready to make the top caps and they will soon be done

All the best


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