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3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH

Construction of TICH according to the words and music by LBSC

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julian atkins19/11/2014 10:43:40
1212 forum posts
353 photos

hi ryan,

there is a very well established procedure for finding out the correct length of the eccentric rods once all the other valve gear parts are made and assembled. this procedure automatically sets the return crank in the correct position. once this position is established no further adjustment of the return crank will ever be necessary.

so i would always then pin the return crank to the crankpin before going on to finally set the valve centrally in the steamchest.

a pin through the side of the return crank through the centre of the end of the crankpin is i think preferable to LBSC's arrangement. if you add a split and a locking bolt as well (as per the above pic) then this might help set the return crank and eccentric rod lengths but personally i would add a pin as well after this has been done.

it is probably obvious but a crankpin that has a return crank fitted should always be pinned to the wheel from behind (just in case!)



Weary19/11/2014 16:17:22
289 forum posts

I made my Tich with locking bolt on return crank as shown in the picture at the bottom of the previous page. It seems adequate to hold the return crank as nothing has moved. I chose this method as I liked the look, wanted an easily removable and adjustable return crank and was unsure of my fixing and adjustment skills at the time of construction. I guess you could arrange the fixing bolt to partially pass through one side of crankpin once the crank position was established if you wanted that look combined with a firm fixing.



Ryan Norton20/11/2014 09:23:12
190 forum posts
774 photos

HI Julian/ Phil

Thanks for the information.

Here are the final valves, as machined.










MK20/11/2014 10:01:22
24 forum posts
20 photos

Great work on those valves.

I'm working on the decorative bits right now.

Ryan Norton05/12/2014 09:16:07
190 forum posts
774 photos

I have been reading through LBSC's words and there is a fair bit near the end on driving the little loco. He indicates that initially, due to the cylinders being cold, there will be a fair amount of condensate that builds up in the cylinders and locks the wheels. This will get blasted out of the chimney if the wheels are turned, forcing the slide valves off their seats and allowing the water to escape.

I am all for this, but would it not be more prudent to allow for drain cocks on this little loco?

Has anyone made drain cocks for a Tich?

MK05/12/2014 15:32:16
24 forum posts
20 photos

Hi Ryan,

I personally think that drain cocks would be a waste on Tich. I have only seen one 3 1/2" tich with drain cocks.



Ryan Norton08/12/2014 09:28:23
190 forum posts
774 photos

Ok so I decided to machine the steam chests from solid. I had the correct size material and thought it would be an interesting way of doing it.

Here are the embryo steam chests after being squared up in the mill.


Here is a before and after look.



I still need to machine the bolting surfaces down to the correct size, which is below the bosses. This will allow the chest to locate nicely on the cylinder. Also, still to machine is the inside of the chest.

Here are some pics with the chest on the cylinder.


I also managed to finally bore out and tap the glands on the rear cylinder covers.





Ryan Norton12/12/2014 09:10:04
190 forum posts
774 photos

Here are a couple of photos with nuts in place, just wanted to see what M2 would look like. I think I prefer it.



Here are the machining and machined pics of the steam chest with one side done.





PDBV30/12/2014 14:19:04
28 forum posts
7 photos
I am also building a little Tich and i am following with great intrest

Im not at the stage of making anything yet, but im busy making drawings, ordering materials, and making a 3D mock up on my pc, so far all is going well

Keep up the good work

Graham Powell 101/01/2015 09:02:49
11 forum posts

Happy New Year to all Tich builders. I have managed to acquire some very well done Tich parts but I did notice that there is the remains of a broken tap in one of the cylinders. Is there anyway of removing this without causing further damage to what is a very nicely done item?.


Graham Powell

David Haynes01/01/2015 09:44:01
168 forum posts
26 photos

Do a search for alum - it dissolves ferrous but leaves non-ferrous alone, just a little cleaning up after.

Graham Powell 101/01/2015 16:27:56
11 forum posts

Hi David,

Thanks for that. Will investigate further.


Graham Powell

Jeff Dayman01/01/2015 21:05:41
1621 forum posts
40 photos

Graham you have a PM

Cheers JD

Ian S C02/01/2015 12:03:33
7447 forum posts
230 photos

You can get Alum at the Chemist, fine crystals, refined, Or go to the garden shop, it's coarser, but cheaper, you'll probably end up with a 1Kg bag of it, but it might be useful in the garden, I think you use it if the leaves are going a bit yellow.

Ian S C

Ryan Norton16/01/2015 13:42:36
190 forum posts
774 photos

So I did some more work in December whilst on leave. Not much though but better than nothing.

I am busy making an adaptor plate for the rotary table so that I can do some machining in the 3-jaw chuck.

So Tich has taken a back seat.













I thought I would make the cylinder cladding as well, just to see what it looked like.

I have some fantastic optical screws, 1.5mm and taps which I will be using to fasten the cladding to the sylinders

Ryan Norton27/05/2015 07:06:33
190 forum posts
774 photos

Has anyone included a blow-down valve on their Tich?

The original drawings do not include for one and LBSC does not mention it in any of his "words and music".

I am informed that this is a very important addition to the boiler and want to find out if any Tich owners have done the same.

John Alexander Stewart27/05/2015 11:36:33
752 forum posts
51 photos

Ryan, good work as always.

Blowdown valves - I did put one just above the mud ring on the backhead, but to tell you the truth, I don't think I've ever used it - impossible to get to!

Our water here is ok, in terms of suspended solids (so our club retired chemist says, anyway) so I do remove the safety, swish water around the boiler, and hold Tich upside down and let things drain out. Maybe not the best, but better than nothing.


Ryan Norton28/05/2015 14:52:42
190 forum posts
774 photos

Hi John

Thanks for the advice.

I thought I would show some amazing Tich model engineering photos.

Very nice.




Ryan Norton12/06/2015 07:43:31
190 forum posts
774 photos

Ok, so I have finally managed to complete my rotary table adapter plate enough to do some Tich work!

See photo below

20 rotary table adaptor plate.jpg

So here is some machining of the front cylinder bosses:

21 machining steam clearance in front cover boss.jpg

Here are the holes as drilled in the cylinder and front cover

19 drilling the covers.jpg

Here are the holes being tapped

22 tapping front cover holes.jpg

Here is a view through the bore. You can see how the machined portion allows communication between the bore and steam passages.

24 front cover in place.jpg

Ryan Norton12/06/2015 08:32:18
190 forum posts
774 photos

The next step was to drill the holes in the Rear covers. Firstly I found the height of the cylinder bore as per below.

25 finding center height of the cylinder.jpg

This was then used to locate the guide bar hole at the correct height.

26 locating the guide rod hole at center height.jpg

Above you can see I have made a black mark with permanent marker on the interface between the two parts, this will be used as a locating point for future work.

Below you can see a scribed mark which will be used for alignment

27 marking the cylinder and rear cover.jpg

A machined washer was then placed onto the cylinder face and aligned so the holes missed the steam passages. A mark was then made on the washer for location purposes.

28 using a machined washer to lacate the rear cover holes.jpg

The washer was then transferred to the rear cover boss and the two marks aligned for drilling.

A quick check of the hole to the left of the red mark on the washer clearly shows that if drilled, it will clash with the boss. A new hole, further around the PCD was then drilled in order to provide for the correct clearance.

29 locating holes on rear cover.jpg

Below the rear cover has all holes drilled and tapped. You will notice that the screws on the left side are slightly closer together to allow for the clearance mentioned above.

30 holes drilled and tapped.jpg

Here are the front cover holes drilled and tapped.

31 front cylinder holes drilled and tapped.jpg

Here is a GA of the right hand side cylinder. All I need to do now is cut the screws to the correct length.

32 ga of cylinder.jpg

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