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3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH

Construction of TICH according to the words and music by LBSC

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John Alexander Stewart25/12/2013 02:40:49
752 forum posts
51 photos

Ryan;

FYI, here's yours truly pulling another passenger with borrowed riding car in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada, circa 2005.

I think Barry Solomon deserves the photo credit. I only have a small version of this image.

manitich.jpg

Llongford Railway28/12/2013 20:35:51
7 forum posts

Hi Ryan,

Well done on your progress. I have just joined the forum to be able to chip into this thread. Although, I have been a member of other engineering forums, I have yet to come across someone else who is building a tich at the moment. I must admit, I have been building my tich for about 1 year and I am just coming to the point where I will be finishing the steam chests and will hopefully have a running chassis soon.

I'll be interested to see how you progress as you'll be ahead of me before not too long!

Regards

Daniel

Ryan Norton02/01/2014 06:39:33
avatar
190 forum posts
774 photos

HI Daniel

Thanks.

It would be nice to see some pics of your TICH! Good luck with the rest of the build!

Llongford Railway02/01/2014 13:00:47
7 forum posts

Hi Ryan,

I may do but won't hijack this thread. The difficlty is that this is my first build so progress is slow and mistakes are high. I also have limited machinary (pillar drill and unimat sl lathe) which also doesn't help. My new years resolution was to focus on the build so as progress picks up I may start my own thread of the build.

Daniel.

Ryan Norton03/01/2014 08:06:07
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190 forum posts
774 photos

HI Daniel

No worries about hijacking the thread, the more pictures and comments on Tich from people who are building them, have them and enjoy them, the better! I feel that this liitle loco needs more exposure!

I look forward to seeing your thread!

Stewart Paterson31/01/2014 18:13:05
2 forum posts

Hullo all,

I watch this thread with interest as I have been given a Tich model at about the same stage of construction as Ryans. I am battling to make coupling rods that don't bind. This is my first attempt at model engineering.

Stewart Paterson

Ryan Norton14/03/2014 12:00:01
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190 forum posts
774 photos

HI Stewart

Sounds like your wheels are not correctly quartered... Have you checked this?

Ryan Norton14/03/2014 12:01:26
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190 forum posts
774 photos

I have been busy modelling TICH in Solidworks and have gotten about as far with the 3D model as I have in reality.

I would like to post some pictures of this as well as some PDF's of the designs etc.

Ryan Norton14/03/2014 12:20:03
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190 forum posts
774 photos

Here are a few designs:

tich frame drawing.jpg

tich hornblock drawing.jpg

tich wheel drawing.jpg

David Haynes16/03/2014 21:49:08
168 forum posts
26 photos

Hi All,

Stewart, there are various things that may effect binding of wheels, to some extent or another. Working by a process of elimination to identify the fault applies to all the construction process, if you have any faults that is. Assuming that the chassis rolls happily down a piece of inclined track before the coupling rods are fitted, then the following may be a cause: -

- Coupling rod centres not the same length as the wheel centres (the wheel centres may differ from as the drawn dimension and between left and right side of the loco);

- Wheels not quartered correctly;

- Crank pins not perpendicular to the plane of the coupling rods;

- Coupling rod bushes not bored perpendicular to plane of coupling rods.

All the best,

Dave

Edited By David Haynes on 16/03/2014 21:50:21

Edited By David Haynes on 16/03/2014 21:51:33

julian atkins17/03/2014 23:22:34
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1212 forum posts
353 photos

hi ryan,

you are making a super job on your TICH! you ought to have attempted something more ambitious and larger by the skill you have shown! i am particularly impressed by the fabrication of parts ( im the same to save on castings) and the super finish on the cylinders.

very well done!

cheers,

julian

Ryan Norton20/03/2014 12:16:40
avatar
190 forum posts
774 photos

David, thanks for the super explanation! I really appreciate it when people take the time to explain the intricacies of model engineering!

Thanks Julian, much appreciated.

Stewart Paterson05/04/2014 16:59:34
2 forum posts

David,

Thanks for your response / help on curing binding rods.

I did more or less as you advised stripped down to components and checked each, I think all the possible causes you mentioned were present to some degree and all combined they resulted in binding.

The worst deviation the rod bushes appeared to be not square to the plane of the rod. I fact the rods bowed when milled to reduce the web thickness as per drawing. This was obvious when I put round bars through each eye and saw they were not parallel. A check of rod with a straightedge confirmed the bowing, this was straightened by hand and dramatically improved freedom.

My next question - is pinning the piston rod to the crosshead the best / only way to make this connection on such a small model?

Stewart Paterson

Ryan Norton18/06/2014 09:36:00
avatar
190 forum posts
774 photos

Hi again finally!

I just thought i would post this pic of the embryo smokebox as it sits at present. I am currently working on the rear cylinder covers. I had an issue with the pin drill i made and as such need to make a new one. Hopefully I will complete this task on the weekend and have some photos on Monday.

I have also tapped the hole for the brake column.

Below is my Tich on the kitchen table, where all good locomotives belong....smile p

30 embryo smokebox.jpg

MK27/06/2014 19:14:28
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24 forum posts
20 photos

Looking great Ryan

Where did you get hold of that brass tube?

Ryan Norton30/06/2014 06:40:15
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190 forum posts
774 photos

HI MK

I actually fabricated the brass tube...

I found a smaller diameter piece at a scrap yard, looked like an old hydraulic cylinder or something.

I then split the tube length ways with a hacksaw, annealed the brass, opened up the tube and inserted a segment into the tube to make it bigger. I silversoldered this together and then machined the outer and inner surfaces to suit the dimensions given in the words and music.

The original tube wall thickness was 2.5mm so there was enough to machine off.

You cant see it in this photo but I actually distorted the tube when forming the outer smokebox wrapper. So my perfectly machined smokebox is not as perfect as I want it but it will never be seen so I am leaving it for now.

Anyway.. more on that later.

Graham Powell 113/10/2014 10:11:14
11 forum posts

Following this with great interest. I have started to build one mainly to try and improve my engineering skills. I am following the words and music in the book.

What is the best way to drill the axleboxes to take the axles?. I have heard horror stories about drilling large holes in gunmetal.

rgds

Graham Powell

julian atkins13/10/2014 23:16:01
avatar
1212 forum posts
353 photos

hi graham,

centre and drill with sharp new drills with the edges backed off for gunmetal, then once big enough for a boring tool i bore to just under size then ream, or bore to size.

cheers,

julian

Graham Powell 114/10/2014 08:23:29
11 forum posts

Hi Julian

Many thanks for the kind reply. I have never done any boring so it will be good practice for me. LBSC advocates clamping the boxes together and drilling a hole through both. This then needs enlarging to a size suitable for a 3/8 reamer. I like the sound of your method but I am assuming that the boxes will need to be set up in a four jaw chuck. Doing them that way, will accuracy be maintained?. I am assuming just drilling the holes in a pillar drill is not a good idea!. Apologies if I sound like a complete duffer but I am new to this though not new to modelling trains.

rgds

Graham Powell

julian atkins15/10/2014 00:10:07
avatar
1212 forum posts
353 photos

hi graham,

ive always bored my axleboxes in the 4 jaw, but have milled the slots for the horncheeks first then adding packing pieces in the slots when putting in the 4-jaw. if you slacken off the same 2 jaws all the axleboxes should be bored (and then reamed) to the same setting. for the last 25 years ive only made split axleboxes, but this is probably a refinement you dont need to bother with for Tich and stick to the LBSC's drawings and 'words and music'!

cheers,

julian

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