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3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH

Construction of TICH according to the words and music by LBSC

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Ryan Norton13/02/2018 14:05:27
190 forum posts
774 photos

Thanks again Neil.

I did a weeny bit of work this weekend.

First, a test of the new propane torch by doing some final annealing of the outer boiler wrapper and firebox wrapper.

annealing 002.jpg

annealing 001.jpg

Lastly, I tried my hand at some copper tube bending and cone fabrication for the pressure gauge.

pressure gauge 002.jpg

pressure gauge 001.jpg

J Hancock13/02/2018 17:46:24
273 forum posts

Hmmm,no criticism but I just know you would have made an absolutely fabulous job of a castellated joint on that seam and avoided the butt strap.

For next time.

OldMetaller14/02/2018 07:22:05
146 forum posts
14 photos

Great work Ryan, you can't beat a bit of hand filing!



Ryan Norton19/10/2018 10:01:03
190 forum posts
774 photos

I have been working again on Tich, with emphasis on the brake gear and valve gear.

I blackened the brake column with some used motor oil which worked wonderfully.

brake column 001.jpg

brake column 002.jpg

I am happy with this result. At least it is protected from corrosion and will not chip.

Ryan Norton19/10/2018 10:08:09
190 forum posts
774 photos

I then moved onto the hanger pins which were fun to turn and thread. This was a straightforward job requiring no further explanation. The one side is M3 and the other M2.

hanger pins 001.jpg

hanger pins 002.jpg

hanger pins 003.jpg

hanger pins 004.jpg

Ryan Norton19/10/2018 10:23:53
190 forum posts
774 photos

Next up were the brake hangers which were all made at once.

Four slices of 2 mm thick steel plate were cut and using the first marked up piece, drilled accordingly with a 1.6 mm drill.

The pieces were then riveted together with three copper rivets and shaped using files.

brake hanger 001.jpg

brake hanger 001a.jpg

brake hanger 002.jpg

brake hanger 003.jpg

brake hanger 004.jpg

brake hanger 005.jpg

brake hanger 006.jpg

Finally the rivets were filed flush and using a pin punch, removed. The edges were filed smooth and the lot oiled lightly.

brake hanger 007.jpg

They are all the same. wink

Ryan Norton19/10/2018 10:41:36
190 forum posts
774 photos

The brake beams were next, starting with the rear brake beam. If you remember a while back I posted some photos of the embryo beams, scribed and partially cut out.

These were placed in the four jaw and the ends turned and threaded M2.

rear brake beam 001.jpg

rear brake beam 002.jpg

rear brake beam 003.jpg

rear brake beam 004.jpg

Here I was checking the fit of the larger turned part using a piece of scrap drilled with the same hole as used on the hangers.

rear brake beam 005.jpg

The thread was started using the lathe tail stock barrel resting on the die holder.

rear brake beam 006.jpg

Finally the thread was finished with the piece of scrap in place to ensure that when a nut is screwed on it does not hinder the movement of the hanger.

rear brake beam 007.jpg

rear brake beam 008.jpg

Now I just need to file to shape and give it a bit of surface sanding.

One thing I have noticed is that the space for the front hangers is very tight between the wheels and the cylinder covers. I know this has been mentioned by others on the forum and elsewhere. I am lucky they JUST fit.

A bigger issue I have noticed is that when the rear hangers are in place, the bottom holes are directly in line with the bottom of the frame which means the rear beam cannot fit in between them...? I have double checked the dimensions on both the hangers and the position of the hanger pin hole and they are correct to LBSC's description.

The two possible solutions are to re-make the hangers, slightly longer to clear the frames or to mill recesses in the tops of the beams where they will conflict with the frames ( I have seen this on some Tich models). Has anyone else come across this issue?

Ryan Norton19/10/2018 10:44:26
190 forum posts
774 photos

Here is a pic of an existing Tich loco with the rear beams adjusted as per my previous post.

rear brake beam conflict.jpg

Ryan Norton19/10/2018 10:50:33
190 forum posts
774 photos

Here is another variation I have found...

rear brake beam conflict 01.jpg

Ryan Norton19/10/2018 10:59:10
190 forum posts
774 photos

Brake gear aside and onto the valve gear.

The reversing shaft was turned down on both ends to a tight fit for the lifting and reverse arms. The side with the lifting and reverse arm will be brazed and the side with the single lifting arm will be drilled and pinned one the valve timing is sorted.

reversing shaft 001.jpg

reversing shaft 002.jpg

reversing shaft 003.jpg

reversing shaft 004.jpg

Ryan Norton22/10/2018 08:16:26
190 forum posts
774 photos

This weekend I managed to get a bit more done.

I took some photos of the front brake beam in situ as well as the brake hangers showing the clearance issues.

front brake beam 001.jpg

front brake beam 002.jpg

front brake beam 003.jpg

As you can see, it is a very tight fit in front of the cylinder cover.

I will need to make the new hangers narrower as well to give some more movement forward and back.

rear brake beam 009.jpg

rear brake beam 010.jpg

Here is the finished rear brake beam.

Ryan Norton22/10/2018 08:19:04
190 forum posts
774 photos

Here is a picture of the rear brake hanger showing the clearance issue with the rear brake beam.

rear brake hanger 001.jpg

I am going to make these a bit longer.

Ryan Norton22/10/2018 08:29:37
190 forum posts
774 photos

I made a start on the radius rods as well.

A piece of 6 mm steel plate was cut and then placed in a pickle to remove the hard mill scale.

This was then squared up in the mill and finally the holes were drilled and reamed in the block.

*Note the block was placed in the vice to allow for all successive steps without removing it.

radius rod 001.jpg

The 3 mm slot was then cut with a 2 mm slitting saw.

radius rod 002.jpg

radius rod 003.jpg

The one side of the rod was then milled down.

radius rod 004.jpg

The embryo radius rods were then removed and all of the edges were slightly chamfered with a needle file.

radius rod 005.jpg

radius rod 006.jpg

The other side will be milled down, the piece split down the middle and the final shape of the radius rod filed.

Hopper22/10/2018 21:28:47
3508 forum posts
68 photos

Wow. The amount and quality of work in a loco is just boggling. I am in awe. Thanks for posting your progress.

Ryan Norton23/10/2018 13:31:02
190 forum posts
774 photos

Thanks Hopper!

Here are some more pictures of work on the radius rods from last night.

radius rod 007.jpg

The other side of the block was machined in the mill.

radius rod 008.jpg

radius rod 009.jpg

The block was then cut down the middle with a hacksaw and the sides filed flat.

radius rod 010.jpg

Now all I need to do it file the two rods to the final shape countersink the lifting link hole on one side and peen the pin to the rod.

Ryan Norton09/11/2018 13:14:23
190 forum posts
774 photos

The rods are almost complete. I have filed both to final shape, the one just needs a bit more taken off the taper part to look more the part.

I am also not going to be peening the pin into the rod, but rather use a floating rod with e-clips on either end. This will allow for a little bit of lateral play in the gear to account for any inaccuracy in my parts.

radius rod 011.jpg

radius rod 012.jpg

radius rod 014.jpg

The concave and convex radii on the thicker part of the top rod also still need to be filed.

I have also got a reject e-clip pin in for reference.

Ryan Norton23/11/2018 07:49:06
190 forum posts
774 photos

Finally finished the radius rods...

radius rod 015.jpg

radius rod 016.jpg

radius rod 017.jpg

radius rod 018.jpg

Ryan Norton23/11/2018 08:28:34
190 forum posts
774 photos

I have also spent some time working on the first bogie.

I first had to mill the spring retaining tabs down so that the springs could fit around them.

bogie assembly 005.jpg

It turns out the tabs were too long to get the springs over, so I filed them down.

bogie assembly 006.jpg

So with a clamp compressing the springs, I managed to get them assembled.

bogie assembly 002.jpg

bogie assembly 003.jpg

bogie assembly 004.jpg

The assembly went O.K. but I feel that it could be easier and have some ideas for modification.

I then bored out the bearing holes to a sliding fit - the axles will be a tight fit.

bogie assembly 007.jpg

bogie assembly 008.jpg

The holes for the bearing cover plates were drilled and tapped M4.

bogie assembly 009.jpg

bogie assembly 010.jpg

bogie assembly 011.jpg

bogie assembly 012.jpg

bogie assembly 013.jpg

I am going to remove the bottom square spring retaining tabs and replace them with removable pins, this will make assembly much easier.

Ryan Norton03/12/2018 09:08:33
190 forum posts
774 photos

I did some more work on the bogie this weekend.

The square spring retaining tabs were cut off and filed flat and 4 mm holes drilled in their place as per the picture below.

I also managed to finish rough turning the two axles.

bogie assembly 015.jpg

The proof of concept of the new spring retaining pin can be seen in the picture below.

bogie assembly 016.jpg

And finally, a bit of a mock up of the whole bogie with wheel blanks.

bogie assembly 014.jpg

Ryan Norton14/12/2018 08:29:52
190 forum posts
774 photos

More work on the bogie wheels and frames this week.

I took some more photos of the spring retaining pins.

bogie assembly 017.jpg

The wheel blanks were first faced on the one side then flipped around and the other side faced, center drilled, drilled and then bored to final size.

bogie wheels 001.jpg

bogie wheels 002.jpg

bogie wheels 003.jpg

bogie wheels 004.jpg

bogie wheels 005.jpg

A mandrel was then turned in the four-jaw chuck for the final wheel turning operations.

bogie wheels 006.jpg

bogie wheels 007.jpg

bogie wheels 008.jpg

The outside diameters of all the wheels were turned to within 1 mm of the flange final size.

bogie wheels 009.jpg

bogie wheels 010.jpg

bogie wheels 011.jpg

bogie wheels 012.jpg

The next step will be to rough turn the treads.

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