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WARCO WM-250 lathe family and WM16 mill - 001

........advice and support for owners.

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John Rudd28/06/2018 09:11:01
1372 forum posts
66 photos

I cant edit my post any more, but a further thought....

With the mill plugged in, close the chuck guard over, now switch on, does the NVR switch hold in or do nothing?

Looking at the Grizzly manual, power comes in to the mill, via a fuse, then via the filter board, through to the chuck guard switch, via the nvr switch and then goes to the speed control board at terminals L1/L2

However, the tacho /filter board is fed first, suggesting there is either a broken wire/blown fuse...if the lcd display is not illuminated.

Carry out the suggested checks and let us know how you get on.....

Edited By John Rudd on 28/06/2018 09:17:35

John Hall 728/06/2018 09:49:04
56 forum posts

Please could you tell me which Grizzley the equivalent to the Warco 250vf...I’m interested in getting hold of a manual...

John Rudd28/06/2018 11:24:57
1372 forum posts
66 photos

There is no direct replacement/equivalent....

There are 4 Grizzly models that are 'similar'.....Have a look here....

Vic28/06/2018 13:02:33
2511 forum posts
14 photos
Posted by John Hall 7 on 28/06/2018 09:49:04:

Please could you tell me which Grizzley the equivalent to the Warco 250vf...I’m interested in getting hold of a manual...

Maybe this one?


Dave Smith 1428/06/2018 13:52:11
108 forum posts
13 photos

HURRAH - Fixed.

John many thanks for your guidance. After taking all the electrical bits out of the box I found a wire and it spade terminal had parted company. The wire was on the 'filter' which is not on the Grizzly circuit diagram and could not be seen until I removed it. Anyway thanks again it made me do a thorough check and avoided wasting money.



Edited By Dave Smith 14 on 28/06/2018 13:52:57

John Rudd28/06/2018 14:32:03
1372 forum posts
66 photos

Glad you got it sorted.....Good that you checked all the wiring thoroughly too, saves a lot of headscratching in the future..

I recommend you change the fuse in the plug if its a 13 A brown one.....far too high....

The control boards of this type have overload protection built in just in case you stall the motor, but takes time to react, same as a fuse takes time to blow......but the motors are not so forgiving....its quite easy to overheat the commutator resulting in either a blwn motor or control board or both....

Even for a 1kw rated motor, a 5A fuse is big enough and will save blowing the control board..

Edited By John Rudd on 28/06/2018 14:34:50

John Hall 728/06/2018 17:33:02
56 forum posts

Thanks for the link Vic..👍

Chris Jones 314/08/2018 10:35:50
24 forum posts
75 photos

Hello All WM16 owners,

Does anyone know the approximate weight of the head on the WM16 mill? This is so that I can get a couple of gas struts fitted to take some of the strain off my arm.

Thanks - Chris.

Rik Shaw14/08/2018 13:08:06
1344 forum posts
364 photos


Sorry I cannot help with the weight as mine has never been of. Not sure I understand how gas struts are going to save your arms - where would you be thinking of fitting them?


Chris Jones 314/08/2018 20:19:44
24 forum posts
75 photos

Hi Rik.

lots of people fit them to take some of the weight of the head. Fitted as standard to some models. Surprised you've never come across them before?

Regards - Chris.

Mark P.16/08/2018 18:25:55
612 forum posts
8 photos
I don't suppose that anyone has a spare set of WM250 change wheels they would like to sell please.
Thanks Mark P.
Howard Lewis20/08/2018 19:50:04
3388 forum posts
2 photos

The chances are, if Warco cannot supply, that the gears from a similar machine will do the job.

Find out the spec, bore, Module (OD / (T +2), width, keyway etc. then look form potential sources.

Little Machine Shop certainly quote a complete set for Seig SC4, (and give dimensions), Arc Euro may well carry spares for their machines, as, no doubt would Chester and Axminster.

I believe that Seig supply machines to more than one UK importer, although I think that Warco may use Real Bull (CHECK!), in which case it is possible that some dimensions may differ.

Have no no knowledge of Amadeal or A M D, so no comment, but could be a possible source.


Mark P.21/08/2018 15:36:18
612 forum posts
8 photos
Hi Howard, these are for a project I am doing, the ones for my lathe fill the bill so I wanted a set from a defunct lathe. My thinking was that they would work out cheaper second hand.
Mark P..
Cabinet Enforcer06/07/2020 23:20:02
81 forum posts
3 photos

Somehow this very useful thread has dropped off the radar, so I thought I would bump it with a little snippet of useful info.

I have been having terrible trouble with chatter on my wm280, and have chased the problem around quite a bit with nothing making much difference at all to a quite obvious problem. In the end it was as simple as the bolt holding the cross slide nut had come loose (doh!).

I did however learn a couple of things while messing about:

  1. My Dickson QCTP was sleeved onto the original (M8 I think) toolpost stud, machining the topslide for a much larger (14mm) stud which fits properly has made a huge difference to the feel and usability of the QCTP, I highly recommend it.
  2. The bearings were extremely tight on the spindle, explaining why adjustment never seemed to make any difference, despite being in slightly ropey condition the bearings were actually working fine as the timkens that went in to replace made zero difference.
  3. Tailstock problems, when I bought the lathe (2nd hand) the tailstock was tight in spots, a stripdown and rebuild partly fixed it, and a bit of judicious bending seemed to get it to a tolerable state, I assumed the screw had a slight bend and forgot about it. Fast forward to my above bearing install and I inadvisedly used the tailstock to ease the bearing race in, the tight spots returned with a vengence, fearing the worst I stripped it down for a proper examination.

    The rear keep plate, which I quickly realised was transferring the full force on the spindle into the body, was only held in with very short (circa 5mm) cap head screws, and the threads holding one of them in were stripped (when using brute force and ignorance I do like to use plenty of the brute force). The tailstock body is drilled and tapped for much longer screws, so after fettling the interface I popped in some longer cap heads and the tailstock now works more smoothly than at any other time in my ownership.

The odd thing is that I have stripped the tailstock down at least twice, including to install needle roller thrust bearings, and completely failed to recognise that the teensy little bolts would be a problem blush.

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