|John Coates||29/03/2013 13:57:52|
558 forum posts
Andrew: found it and it works. Guess the cardboard box marked "Chester Champion motor + control pod" was a bit of a give away ! Was all connected up so just put the plug in and switched it on. Got quite lively not being secured to anything!!
There's the motor, wiring and control pod, and the cone pulley
Motor alone = £40
Motor + control pod = £55
The lot = £60
P&P on top 'cos it's blummin' heavy
Let me know
|65 forum posts|
My motor spec plate is identical, no serial number, no date!!
I agree with the belt tension possibility, although it might be difficult to get one of these too tight given the tensioning arrangements. I'd been thinking about a new belt for mine since the tensioner is up to its limit and as been for some time, but at least it's easy to change speed now because I can just lift the belt over the pulleys without the need to slack the tensioner off. And no, the belt doesn't slip. I was taking the first cut with a milling cutter after changing over from drill chuck to milling collet the other night and the I thought the belt was slipping as the cutter almost stopped, but I then realised I'd forgotten to tighten the draw bolt. Doh! The slack belt takes everything I am prepared to throw at it - for the time being.
|Ian P||12/04/2020 22:02:47|
2420 forum posts
Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I have the white version of this Champion mill and I am filling up some time by putting it to first use. I bought it incomplete ex showroom at a Chester Engineering open day about ten years ago and it still has its coating of Chinese grease. The motor and some of the handwheels are missing so getting it operational should be fairly straightforward.
What I am curious about though is the 'CE' marking in Johns machine (mine has no such label) but the characters in the picture are mirror imaged, but the machine itself isn't!
Maybe this was a dodge to circumvent copyright (before 'China Export' became the explanation for CE)
|Tim Stevens||13/04/2020 17:13:03|
1268 forum posts
It may also be worthwhile to check the air-flow through the motor. It would not be the first time that a sticky label had come off and was blocking the draft (etc etc)
As the motor is running on DC, it would help to put an ammeter in series with the feed, as this will tell you if the current is no more than the rated max current. On the label above this is 4 amps, and you should get this figure only when working hard. And notice that the label the power is 370W at 220 volts - which will draw about 1.7 amps - and this shows that the motor will not stand 4 amps continuous, only as a max and not for long.
|Ian P||13/04/2020 19:01:21|
2420 forum posts
Did you realise you were replying to a thread that has been dormant for seven years Tim?
I came across the thread last night and something odd in one of the pictures made me curious, I assumed the original problem has been solved long ago and whilst I thought of copy/pasting the picture into a new thread it would probably still have needed a link to this old thread to put in context.
Any idea why part of the picture is mirror imaged?
|Martin Connelly||13/04/2020 20:29:05|
1463 forum posts
The label has been put on upside down by someone in China who is unfamiliar with European characters. If we had a label with Chinese characters on it I think a lot of us would not know if we had got the right way up or not. No mirroring of characters required. There is an illusion that works in a similar way.
|Ian P||13/04/2020 20:45:23|
2420 forum posts
Now I know I'm thick!
I got fixated on the mirror image bit and just did not think there might be another way.
Reminds me of a PCB I designed a long time ago, It was pretty simple and laid out with tape, there was no silkscreen or text but I wanted to put a number or identifier to make the track side obvious. I chose 'K47' because there were no curves involved and the numerals only read one way.
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