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Long BA Screws

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Chuffer21/12/2012 10:14:09
21 forum posts

I am currently carrying out a refurbishment on the pistons of my 5" gauge Prairie (Martin Evans Firefly). I am replacing the graphite packing in the pistons, which had completely disintegrated, with rings - Clupet which I have on order. As well as making new pistons I would also like to replace the countersunk screws holding on the steam chest and cover which I replaced about 10 years ago when I carried out the last repacking of the pistons with graphite yarn. I bought these from Items but on ringing them up today they no longer stock these so after a fruitless search of the Internet does anyone know who might stock 5BA x 1.5" long steel countersunk screws. I need 28 but have a few spares from the last refurb so would want to order 50 - enough for possible repacement stock in the future! I could reuse the ones I've removed but would ideally like to replace with new if possible.

Thanks

Nigel

Lambton21/12/2012 10:54:37
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694 forum posts
2 photos

Nigel,

You could try EKP Supplies Tel 01598 710892 They are manufacturers of all sorts of BA fasteners and may be persuaded to make you a batch. They currently list 5 BA countersunk screws in shorter lengths so I presume they could easily set their equipment to make longer ones.

I hope this is of help.

best regards

Steambuff21/12/2012 17:52:18
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519 forum posts
7 photos

Give BA Bolts a try on **LINK** If they do not have them in stock (or listed) they will make them for you. (They have made specials for me at a reasonable price)

Dave

V8Eng21/12/2012 19:39:30
1644 forum posts
1 photos

Another supplier who might be worth trying is:

**LINK**

Regards.

Chuffer22/12/2012 10:53:57
21 forum posts

Many thanks for all of the responses which I will follow up.

According to their website EKP are on holiday until the New Year and I suspect that most of the others will also be as well. I did have a flash of inspiration yesterday and rang Clerkenwell Screws but they are also on holiday.

I think GLR still list Firefly as a model but their website seems to have disappeared into the ether and when I rang yesterday their answerphone said no one was available and I wouldn't be able to leave a message.

If anyone else happens to be building a Firefly they are going to hit the same problem as me, except I can reuse the screws I have taken out if I have to. It makes me wonder how many other designs now have parts specified which are now no longer available?

In the meantime it's pouring with rain so I'm off to the workshop to cut out replacement gaskets and carry on with the refurbishment.

Regards

Nigel

Stub Mandrel22/12/2012 20:49:52
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4311 forum posts
291 photos
1 articles

Nigel, if you can't get ones that long, why not make studs?

Neil

Edited By Stub Mandrel on 22/12/2012 20:50:44

fizzy22/12/2012 20:54:47
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1825 forum posts
120 photos

I thought studs were always the way to go?

Ian S C23/12/2012 00:48:00
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7468 forum posts
230 photos

Even if you make the studs, and toctite the nuts on, then just use them as bolts, but with the right amount of thread protruding. Ian S C

Lambton23/12/2012 09:05:13
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694 forum posts
2 photos

Studs would not help Nigel as he requires countersunk screws. Read his original request for help - he mentions countersunk twice!

Stub Mandrel23/12/2012 17:01:32
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4311 forum posts
291 photos
1 articles

How did I miss that? You are right!

Neil

HomeUse24/12/2012 16:37:19
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168 forum posts
12 photos

Had a similar problem years ago when I had to replace some cycle threaded countersunk bolts with new longer ones - could not obtain any so had to result to home workshop indignity. Two new bolts were obtained for each one to be replaces - head cut off of one and soldered/brazed to the other to increase the length.

A simple jig was made with a block of material (I used a large carbon brush from a D C motor, but other non solderable/brazing material can be used). A hole that is a good sliding fit on the outside of the bolt was drilled through the length of the jig near to one edge and a slot (castilation) was cut in that edge to expose the bolt when in the hole - the ends being soldered were splayed (scarf joint) and the butted together in the jig. In my situation there was no need to worry about lining up the threads as only the bottom 1/4" or so was used.

The solder/braze was applied to the joint through the cut out - in many years use (stripping and rebuilds) there was no problems - as far as I can recall the bolts were about 5/32"

Hope this will be of use

Seasonal Greetings

Chuffer04/01/2013 15:48:25
21 forum posts

Just a quick update.

After reading the responses to my intial posting and giving some thought to the matter over Christmas I have decided that studs and nuts are the best way to go as this will overcome trying to get non-standard long countersunk screws if I need any in the future.

It will mean I'll have to counterbore the valve chest cover to remove the countersinks but as its 1/4" thick steel where the drawing specifies 3/16" brass its not going to present a problem. Just goes to show that this forum works as I had got it into my mind to replace like with like.

I've got lots to do in cleaning up and refurbishing the loco' rather than making up studs so I've been in contact with Mark at BA Bolts and he is making me enough studs for the current refurbishment and sufficient spares for the future.

Thanks to all who responded.

Nigel

Ian S C05/01/2013 07:04:29
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7468 forum posts
230 photos

Nigel, you could make little washers with one face conicle ti fit the counter sink, might be better than a counter bore as far as accessing the nut, although a full nut is quite deep. When I did the Stuart Turner S 9, I used washers under nuts to protct the paint work, I chose washers with an outside diameter the same as the AF size of the nuts. Ian S C

IanT05/01/2013 10:50:32
1918 forum posts
185 photos

Ah - Ian SC beat me to it really - although my solution would have been a custom made nut with the countersink machined on it - and then threaded rod used as a stud.

For larger 'countersunk' holes (where a long cheesehead type might be required) - a slotted circular nut is used as a similar alternative with a stud - but requires a special screwdriver to tighten it up.

IanT

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