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Help with dismantling solid riveted lathe stand

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Brainsparks3009/06/2012 18:58:45
16 forum posts
3 photos

Having just received my ML7 and got it upstairs (nothing ruptured) the next problem is how to get its custom made stand up an angled Victorian staircase.

I thought it would be be simple, but nooooo, it wont fit and is extremely well made and very rigid.

Having removed the bolts to remove the top I found what looks like solid rivets under all the paint.

Rivet join

Another shot
Bolt hole
I reckon if I can get the top off I get get it 'around' the stairs and then re-attach upstairs.
I don't want to ruin it, so what should I do? Feebly attempt to knock them out? Drill?
Mark P.09/06/2012 19:58:19
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605 forum posts
6 photos

Grind off the heads and remove with a punch of the right size.

Regards Pailo.

Robert Dodds09/06/2012 20:29:03
264 forum posts
29 photos

Hi,

Victorian staircases are often found in houses with sash windows and this was the way some very large pieces of furniture made it to the upper floors.

Could you get it in whole by lifting through a window?

Bob

PS Remember, What goes up must eventually also come down!!

Ian S C10/06/2012 12:11:55
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7447 forum posts
230 photos

Bob thats what I was thinking, If theres sash windows, its a matter of miniutes to take the window out, I'v done that myself in the past when my brother in law could'nt ge a large bit of funiture into his house. If thats not possible, I'd knock out the rivits, and on reassembly use tight fitting bolts (then you'll be able to disassemble it to get it back down stairs). Ian S C

Gordon W10/06/2012 15:17:48
2011 forum posts

Modern double glazing is even easier to remove, done it. PS some more modern types have anti burglary devices, so I'm told.

Lambton11/06/2012 10:26:43
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687 forum posts
2 photos

When did Ian last take out a original painted-up Victorian sash window?

When first married we had a Victorian house and had to get the upstairs furniture in through the bedroom sash window. The window sashes were difficult to remove as there were many layers of paint sealing in the outer beading and the fragile parting bead between the sashes, all of which had to be sacrificed and replaced with new. I took the opportunity to renew the old sash cords and to clean and lubricate the pulleys. Fortunately in those days the local timber yard (Smalls of Dunstable now long gone) stocked various sash window beading sections.

Work to remove and replace the sashes about 2 days - time to get the furniture in about 10 minutes !

Some years later when we moved out it was however a simple task to remove and replace the sashes due to the previous renovation work.

Ian S C11/06/2012 12:02:28
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7447 forum posts
230 photos

The house was early 20th century, in Dunedin NZ, not much paint, and the woodwork was screwed in place rather that nailed as they often are, sent brother in law off to get new rope for the weights, as they were broken, Dad and I got to work on it, and I think my sister helped, B in L was more help not being there! The Kiwi type of window may be of a simpler design, and proberbly less ornate than an older UK design. Ian S C

Brainsparks3011/06/2012 16:30:14
16 forum posts
3 photos

I have measured the width of the window and I should have 1/4'' each end to fit it through. The place is rented and despite a so called preservation order, its in a terrible state of repair and barley holding together. I dont fancy dismantleing any part of this house even with permission, as I dont trust it isn't bodged in the first place.

If I go with through the window, I will probably have to do a bit of covert night ops as the only sash window left is the one overlooking the main road through the village. The path is narrow here so anything you haul up will be suspend over passing traffic, and might look a little suspicious.

Not possesing a 5mm punch I have one on order, just in case I go that route. I will post victory pics when done. Or just move house (planning that anyway) to somewhere with a proper workshop away from noisy roads.

Richard Parsons11/06/2012 17:40:34
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645 forum posts
33 photos

Brainspark

I used to live in a similar house. I would only remove enough of the rivets to let you fold the legs under the base. it will then go up easily.

On the stairs have a good look round and there were always little 'niches' in the walls. these were generally about 1' 6" high (460 mm) and 3" to 6" deep (76 to 152mm). These were automatically built into the house and are called "Coffin ledges" ('Box ledges' if ladies are present) These were put there to let you get an empty coffin up and a full one back down. You may have to 'tap' for them as they may have been plastered over but they will be there. The Victorians were very practical folk.

Rdgs

Dick

Springbok12/06/2012 01:30:21
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879 forum posts
34 photos

looking at your pic angle grind the 2 rivets either side legs then should then fold up no need to go to the hastle of windows. but before doing this take outside strip all of the old sloshed on paint and redo with a hamerite type paint you will not regret it as will look good. I am sure that you will want fellow engineers plus SWMBO to have a look at your workshop. use bolts when item is upstairs to re-assemble. whatever way good luck and enjoy. I have for over 50 yrs.

Bob

Ian S C12/06/2012 08:31:17
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7447 forum posts
230 photos

Just a thought (you'v proberbly had it too), if you stand it on end, can you get it up stairs without any deconstruction? Ian S C

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