|Richard Parsons||12/03/2012 08:19:50|
645 forum posts
I am building a version of Raymon’s 5cc ED racer. It is for marine use in the local model boat regatta to be held in August – Much to the anger of the local anglers-
Has anyone any ideas of reed valve for it?
It seems that a Hungarian nicked my lump of Tuffnol. They have an infuriating habit of picking things up walking off with them and then just dropping them where ever they are and forgetting all about what they have done. It is no good asking them, they do not know what they were looking at in the first place. Last year I found part of the reversing gear I was trying to make on a table in the green house.
17066 forum posts
I'm sure Ramon will be able to suggest something but he's not been that active on the net lately as he is recovering from an operation, you may be able to get him on HMEM as hes made a few posts there in the last week or so.
|Richard Parsons||12/03/2012 12:45:57|
645 forum posts
JasonB - thanks. If you contact him pass him my best wishes
|Ramon Wilson||12/03/2012 16:09:38|
722 forum posts
Hi Dick, It's good to hear that you are having a go at a 'Racer'. There are a few others but your's is the first to suggest a reed valve. Is it to be watercooled too ?
A reed valve should not be that difficult to make - my original version as a young lad was such and I remember buggering it up well and truly .
It was a well worn engine and not knowing that it was a reed valve at the time I removed the backplate to see if the lack of suction could be improved. Instead of the rotor I was expecting there was this small brass shim covering the intake hole and fastened by a screw or a rivet in the centre of the backplate - where the rotor pin goes. I plucked it with my fingernail and immediately bent it rendering it useless. The model shop owner at the time - later to become a lifelong friend - fixed by simply using a piece of broken razor blade. (That would be the carbon type not the stainless)
I'm sure you realise but just in case - if you do make a reed version there is no need to mill out the radial timing pocket but just bring the intake hole right through, the reed just needs to cover the port. I'm not sure how the timing as set up will work with a reed valve - they can have the propensity to run backward but I'd be pleased to hear of the outcome.
Thank you for your wishes - I've recovered very well but have now gone down with the dreaded 'Man - Flu' - aren't women so lucky not to get it
Regards - Ramon
Edited By Ramon Wilson on 12/03/2012 16:11:55
|1023 forum posts|
Women just do not understand how we men suffer
|Richard Parsons||12/03/2012 17:43:03|
645 forum posts
I run into reed valves about once a month in the chain saw/strimmer motors. But no one knows it all and many know things I do not. These have two layers of plastic as reeds. Mind you they nowadays have plastic crank cases as well. These can be the devil to repair, but in this modern world they will only sell you a new machine. A few scraps of metal culled from an old computer some epoxy glue and a few 2mm pop rivets job done. 2 bottles of the ‘golden liquid’- and everyone is happy.
I am also working on the exhausts. Noise abatement and all that rhubarb, your gorgeous stacks are forbidden. Their noise would stop the tadpoles developing into frogs. This the reason they have a 5 cc limit on CI engines in boats at that meeting.
Oh aye! I am fitting an oil seal in the crank case and using screened bearings.
Sorry you have a dose of the Nadgers/Lurgi. I had a dose of ’Alice’ last year. Very nasty Christopher Robin went down with it.
No women do not know. Think of the Man eating shark who will touch neither women or child
Edited By Richard Parsons on 12/03/2012 17:44:46
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